Besnard La Haye

Besnard La Haye, review of a shirt and tie

Text : Romain @Lastrolab
Photos : Thomas M.

Four years agor, Victor Besnard found an old suit made by his great great grandfather (his grampa’s grampa), a French tailor established in the Hague. That was the final nudge for this menswear enthusiast to finally launch his brand, as a side business of his regular office job. Although an outsider, Victor did not really dive into the unknown. He was already familiar with the world of men’s fashion as a former salesman and buyer of a high-end shop in Amsterdam while a student. And that’s maybe a good thing because an ancestor in the trade might not be the sufficient background in order to appear as a serious business partner for the Italian workshops which now manufacture for Besnard.

As a detail-oriented afficionado, Victor designed with his providers (and sometimes with the help of a pattern-maker) an array of clothing and accessories in a subtle an coherent stye. He claims his inspiration from both the Ivy and mid-century Italian Riviera styles (think of a cross-over between the Talented Mr Ripley and the Graduate). Jackets are soft, with a slightly extended shoulders, in the Florentine style. Trousers feature a high rise, single pleat, side adjusters and basta! No extra Gurkha buckles, slim fit flood pants nonsense. Shirts offer a spread, button-down, or camp collar, mostly in subtle light blue and white tones.

Speaking about shirts, I had the chance to try a spread collar shirt, made in a Bengal-striped poplin and a navy grenadine tie in a thick gauge (Garza grossa).

The poplin is silky smooth in hand, and unfolding the shirt reveals a beautiful making: French seams, offset armscye seams for more ease of movement, conical cuffs and nice matching of the stripes. Besnard also prides itself of for hand steps in the making: armhole and collar are hand sewn, and so are the buttons and side gussets. The pros and cons of hand stitching against a nice machine work are always debatable, even at Les Indispensables no consensus has been reached. However, everyone can agree that it is the most beautiful to look at. 

The cut is not disappointing either. Sleeves are long enough and that’s always appreciated. The fit is flattering but not to slim. At least, it contains easily my dad bod. High armholes allow a freedom of movement in case you want to do the clown on the place de la Concorde. The cuffs are cut conical, which mean that they are close to the wrist without preventing blood flow. This is a detail that I love but haven’t found in not so many other brands.

Priced at 175 euros, we are no longer in the entry-level of shirting, but Besnard offers a high quality level that is rarely met by the competition.

The tie is also very well made and hand-rolled at the edges (like my trousers that day). The silk feels nice and crunchy in hand. I am more used to 9cm or 8.5 cm width, but I must say that this tie offers harmonious proportions with it’s 8cm width. The knot sits beautifully under the collar.  

If, despite the red stitching, navy grenadine is too quiet for you, Besnard also offers more textured shantungs, regimental stripes (watch out for actual regiment members!) and prints. The ties are sold for 110 euros. I haven’t bought ties in a while, but a quick benchmark analysis seems to indicate that the pricing is pretty good considering the high level of quality.

In the end, Victor confided that his upcoming new collection draws inspiration from another Hollywood classic: Wall Street! Keep your eyes open (on your Bloomberg terminals)…

Solovair - The Northamptonshire Productive Society (NPS)

Solovair

In 1844, the English painter Joseph Mallord William Turner (1775 - 1851) presented to the Royal Academy his painting Rain, Steam and Speed which became the anthem of modernity. It was this painting that first depicted the results of the Industrial Revolution, namely the fog and smog left by the locomotive passing over the Maidenhead Railway Bridge built by the famous architect Isambard Kingdom Brunel. This architectural marvel consequently split the Thames by connecting London to Bristol. History is made of firsts. At that time, the railway boom allowed economic development and facilitated trade between cities and countries. So much so that in 1851 the World's Fair took place in London for the first time. On the other hand, craftmanship was still vibrant and continued to develop and improve. 

In 1881, five shoemakers living in the village of Wollaston, England, got together to form a cooperative - a company owned by those who worked there - called the Northamptonshire Productive Society (NPS). It was during this period that the leather belt region of the United Kingdom developed. We are particularly fond of this part of England for its centuries-old shoe-making expertise. We are therefore honored to introduce to you a brand too little known to the general public that has won our hearts, Solovair.

Let's have a closer look.

An English story

Until the end of the 19th century, shoes and boots were made at home by individual shoemakers who were paid by the pair, as was the case for knitwear. Remuneration was low and job security non-existent. It was in this context that NPS was created as a cooperative. 

In 1881, the company won a contract with the British government to produce boots for the army. At the end of the 19th century, in 1899, the brand grew from 5 to 80 employees, which forced it to move to larger premises, near South Street, which it still occupies today! 

But it was in the 1950's that NPS took off. The brand produced shoes that were riveted and sewn, glued or Goodyear welted, which is their main assembly method today. 

For 35 years, NPS manufactured rubber-soled shoes with clean lines and a formidable comfort.  It is in 1959 that the first pair of Doc Martens left the NPS workshops. Indeed, Doc Martens does not have its own factory and therefore uses several English manufacturers. NPS, will thus manufacture under license Doc Martens by Solovair for "Sole-Of-Air" known for their lightness. 

However, the story does not last and in the 1980s, with the galloping globalization, the brand is on the verge of bankruptcy. Indeed, Doc Martens relocates all its production. However, NPS decided to continue and to use the brand name Solovair for its own brand.

The brand continued to suffer but in 2006, an angel fell from the sky in the person of Ivor Tilley, a resident of the village of Wollaston who loved shoes and had worked in the sector for over 45 years. With the agreement of the employees, he bought NPS and brought it back from the ashes. Today, Solovair is doing well and offers iconic models such as the 4 Eye Gibson Shoe that we are pleased to present.

The " 4 Eye Gibson Shoe”

Here is a summery and easy-to-wear pair. Its round toe shape is on the last 2488. We like many features on this model. First of all, the subtle sand-colored suede that goes perfectly with an earth-toned outfit - or that softens more pronounced colors. Then the Solovair rubber sole which is surprisingly light and robust. We particularly like its shape, more discreet than a commando sole and less visually massive. 

Note that the brand recommends to choose your usual size, but for this review and usually wearing 6.5 UK, I opted for a 6 UK. This is purely personal, I prefer to be well maintained in my shoes. Be careful, never wear shoes in which your toes touch the front! They will never widen in length, unlike the width.

The manufacture of the pair is classic. It enjoys a "stitchdown" construction, a very common assembly found on most shoes with crepe soles, the Desert Boot by Clark’s is probably the best-known one. For the record, NPS actually produced Clark’s Originals Desert Boot in the 1960s and even more recently in 2015 when Clark’s Originals celebrated the 65th anniversary of the Desert Boot.

The benefits of this fit can be summed up in two words: ultra-flexibility and comfort. The pair is also easy to care for and holds up well over time. The only drawback is that it is not easy to find a shoemaker who will change the sole. Solovair does not offer this service for this type of assembly. You can nevertheless buy a brand new sole and go to Galoche et Patin for example, which we wrote about in a previous article. 

I particularly like this rounded toe...but you probably already know that from my previous articles! This pair is quite disconcertingly comfortable. It is not rare that this type of shoe would hurt your feet the first time you wear them, but it was not the case here. The overall fit and look reinforces the idea that this pair is iconic, it fits everyone and can be worn - at least - 6 months during the year.

How to wear this pair of derbies? I choose a subtle olive cotton chino from Parisian brand Swann (upcoming review), a Uniqlo U t-shirt and a seersucker shirt from Shirtonomy. Keep it simple.

Walking on air

For 179 €, you can walk on air! We couldn't find a cheaper alternative in terms of shoes...made in England! Of course, at this price the interior is not fully lined in leather, but you can always turn to the NPS range, which is the top of the range of their workshop. The pairs are then fully lined in leather.

Even rapper Tyler The Creator wears Solovairs. In a recent interview, he said he wears the model "Black Hi-Shine Tassel Loafer".

Solovair is an authentic English shoe brand that not only deserves to be known, but that we proclaim as an essential.

Viapiana Customs

Text : Mathieu @BestShopsInTown 
Photos : Mathieu @BestShopsInTown

With each new city, new opportunities arise for me to discover new shops and meet new people. On  my last trip to Toronto, I already knew one of my first destinations. This place had been  recommended to me by Arthur @superstitch as one of the must-see places. This place is none other  than the workshop of certainly one of the best denim makers in the world. And I weigh my words  when I say that the man in question is talented.  

Welcome to Viapiana Custom. This workshop located in the basement of a building is a landmark for  insiders and true enthusiasts of the famous “toile de Nîmes”. But not only, because the man is gifted  and he knows how to work with different materials. I am welcomed by the master chef, Mr.  Benjamin Viapiana. The place impresses me at once with the number of sewing machines and the  atmosphere which reigns there. We feel the know-how and that each tool and machine has a  specific use. It is very simple, everything here is made by hand. We are not talking about automation  but about know-how, because all the pieces are made "from scratch" by Ben.  

But rather than a long speech, let me share with you the fascinating interview of Ben to learn more  about his career and his art: 

1- Can you introduce yourself? 

I’m Benjamin Viapiana and I was born in Toronto, Canada. My father is from Italy and my mother is  Canadian.  

2- Why and how did you create Viapiana Custom? 

My dad is a tailor and he started to become a tailor when he was five years old in Italy and his  business is called Viapiana Custom Tailor so I, you know, remixed it a little bit to call Viapiana custom  denim. Because I focus more on workwear and less on classic menswear.  

3- Why did you choose Denim? 

It was kind of almost a joke at first. When I was 16, I asked my dad: “OK I'm ready, teach me to do  some tailoring”, and he said, “it's too late”. And he was pretty serious because as I said, he started  when he was five years old.  

4- Did he learn from himself? 

No, well you know, when you start school, this is back in 1947, he would have started school when  he was five. So when you start school than in a small town when you're poor, the day you start  school is the day you start your job.  

So his brother was Carpenter, another brother was a tinsmith, the other was a hairdresser and he  was the tailor. 

So yeah, when I was 16 I said “Ok, teach me, I'm ready” and he said, “it's too late”.  

So kind of like half out of spite, half like I can do it anyways, I decided to try something a little bit  different and do jeans.  

And there was one like, I don't even know if he remembers when he said it or not, but there was one  time when he kept on asking like “why you wear your jeans like this, pull it up, you dress a little bit  nicer”. So one day he said, “if you can make it, you can wear that wherever you want”. So I said “OK  fine”. Then I remember I went to grab the car keys right away, took the car, went to the fabric store,  bought some material, some denim, and then, went to the second-hand store and bought an old  pair of jeans.  

That was OK.  

I took it apart, cut the new material, and made them. It was a disaster.  

So that's kind of the beginning of where it came from.  

5- Do you have a real passion for denim fabrics and something like that? 

That's the funny thing, is that most of the denim brands or people in the denim industry, will have  that special story, like when “I was seven, I touched my first Levi's and I jez in my pants or even like  that”.  

But no, I don't have that when I told my dad I'm gonna make one. I didn't know what denim was, I  just knew that I liked to wear jeans. You know, like who cares?  

And I didn’t even know stretch, not stretch, selvedge, not selvedge, I didn't know what that is. I only  learned about selvedge denim when I was already making jeans.  

6- When did you start your business, at 16? 

Yeah, so I mean from about 16 to 18 or so, I was just experimenting with stuff like I would make a lot  of jackets, I would take like a hoodie with the zipper in the front and I would take the pattern and  make it with Tweed with some silk lining or something like Old Streetwear style.  

And yeah, I experiment with lots of stuff like this.  

7- Did you already have machines to do that? 

My dad has 12 machines or so to make suits and dress pants, shirts and whatever so I was able to  use those and he ran the business from home so the machines were always super close.  

8- And over 18? 

When I was 19, I moved to Thailand where I went on vacation, and then I ended up staying. So that  was from 19 until 30. 

When I went there, I still wanted to make stuff and I started to make more jackets when I was there,  but no one can wear jackets in Thailand, it’s too hot.  

9- Did you learn everything by yourself too? 

Pretty much yeah.  

10- Never go to school to learn some techniques? 

No, no, I never went to school for that. I never went to university or college or anything.  I don't have time for that or money.  

11- From the beginning, you knew that you wanted to create something with your hands? 

No, no, no idea. When I was young I thought I was going to be a pro skateboarder, this is why I’m still  wearing Vans all day.  

But I had no idea. I just knew that I liked doing it. So when I went to Thailand, the first day I got my  apartment I also went out and bought the sewing machine.  

Just 'cause you know if I'm going to be there, I'm going to have one.  

And then one turn to two turns to three, and then after that, I bought 5 all in one shot. That was  after about two years of being in Thailand just making jeans with like single needle only.  

Then I was like I want to make this a business but I gotta really like go for it. So I quit my English  teaching job, which I found randomly, and bought the rest of the important machines, another five  of them, and went from there.  

12- At that time, you were already selling garments to your friends? 

It was all word of mouth. Even to this day, the best way is word of mouth. You know someone buys  something and feels good about it and they tell their friends.  

13- Did you already own old machines? 

No, at that time I had no idea, I thought brand new was better. The first machine I ever bought was a  brand new white machine. I thought it was the Juki but it actually spelled it wrong as a fake Juki is  called Juiki. So I had that one and then I also had a fake, it was like just some Chinese brand-like  serging machine. It's like the Singer 81, but it was like green and I think was called Flying Horse.  

14- This machine, did it allow you to make pants?

That serger was garbage, so I literally used it once and I felt stupid for buying it, so I never used it.  The white machine it's still in use today. I gave it to a Vietnamese guy, a Vietnamese refugee in  Thailand and he's still using it today.  

But yeah, you gotta start somewhere. It wasn't until like the old machines, it wasn't until I saw some  pictures from the magazines in Japan. I was like, oh, it looks kind of cool, you know, maybe I can find  that.  

And some of the machines are very specific, you need this one to do a certain thing, and when you  find or when you realize that that's the case, then when you go out and look for it, you find all  different types of machines and that excited me, I like that.  

15- So you did some research to make a pair of jeans from scratch? 

Oh yeah, all the time.  

There was one guy who bought me that first Japanese magazine, Lightning magazine, you know.  And in the back, there was like maybe 3 or 4 pages, but it was like how to make jeans.  

The editors of the magazine went to Flathead company and they got to make their own jeans at  Flathead Company. So they explained the machines they’re gonna use.  

But everything is still in Japanese, so I'm just looking at pictures, hoping for the best. I didn't have a  smartphone at this time, you know, I was late for the smartphone game. But you know at that time  I'm just looking at pictures and I would bring the magazine to the store and like I want this machine  and they'll be like what model number is? I don't know, look at it, you're the guy, you sell it.  

So I had to figure it out and finally, they would tell me, this one is this model, this one is this model.  And then I would look up more and more and more and try to find the best version, quality, and the  oldest or something.  

16- Where did you find the first batch of old machines, in Thailand? 

Yeah yeah, so the very first machine I got that was the first and last time I bought from that guy  because it was like, you know, fake machine just cheap quality. I think the brand new, table, motor,  machine, everything was like 200 bucks. You know, it was nothing, I just wanted a deal.  

So I just got it.  

But the first batch where I got five machines, was from a shop, that was quite close to my house in  Thailand, and they sold a lot of industrial machines. It wasn't the biggest shop, but they were very  close to home so I would always go visit them and they were very helpful. Even though after a long  

time, I realized he was kind of cheating me with the prices, whatever that’s Thailand. I'm a white  guy, that's it, you know, white guys pay more.  

17- Have you already bought some union special at that time?

In the beginning, I wasn't focused on a specific brand. I didn't have that sort of obsession but I just  wanted specific types of machines. Like the 1st order when I got 5 machines, I got a button whole  machine and I wanted a Reece machine.  

But he ended up giving me a Durkopp machine which was good, and then I got a Brother tacking  machine to attach the belt loops and stuff like this and it was a great machine.  

I actually just gave it away recently, but that one was great.  

Then I got a Kanzai special which is like a Union Special, but the Japanese version.  

And that one is for belt loops but I use that one for so many different things because you could put  three needles, two needles, one needle with the spreader, no spreader, like so many different  variations to this machine, and it was a very strong and good machine so that one is helpful.  

18- Why did you decide to focus on older machines, do you think you can make better jeans? One thing to remember is good machines make a good product.  

If you have a bad machine, it’s hard to make a good product with a bad machine.  

So yes, I like the older machines, but I try to buy the best of what I can find. And I mean, you can see  here I have over 100 machines but not all of them are in perfect working order.  

Sometimes I buy three machines of the same one to combine into one machine, so it's perfect.  

Yeah, I mean even here now I use machines from as old as 1896 until 1991, I think is the newest  machine that I have.  

19- Do you still continue to have a look to buy new machines?  

I'm always looking because there's always something but the grass is always greener on the other  side, right?  

So I have a machine and it works fine, but maybe there's another one with a nicer paint job or it  looks a little bit newer, or instead of the two needles, it’s the three little version.  

Oh my God, that's the one I want.  

It's a disease, you know, but I like this disease.  

20- Are you missing one machine in particular? 

No, I have pretty much whatever I need.  

Yeah, there are certain machines that would be super cool to use, but a lot of those machines I've  never even seen in real life anyway, so...  

Well, I mean I have hundreds and hundreds of books and PDFs and images from all these different  companies, and wow, there's some crazy machines in there but I've never seen them in real life  anywhere, you know. 

21- So when you buy the machine, is it come with the motor and the table around? So sometimes you can find a machine like complete with table motor everything.  

But my space is pretty confined, so I usually just take the machine head and I'll build my own table  and put a new motor. The new motor it's a little bit better with electricity, you can control it easier,  and it's also a little bit lighter.  

And it's also less risk of fire and stuff. The old machine and old motors are full of dust and dust,  maybe from 1943, so you know.  

22- When you buy one, do you always clean it? 

No, no, I’m not Arthur (laugh). You know if the machine works and looks good like you gotta clean a  little bit, you know.  

23- How do you know if a machine works perfectly or not, you need to see inside no? 

Not necessary well yeah. So when I go and find an old machine sometime the machine doesn't even  spin like it's locked like the grease is just turned to like glass almost and you cannot move it. And  most people would touch it and say “that's garbage, it doesn't move”.  

But old metal is good, it's good quality.  

Sometimes I would open up certain things to check like does it has the foot, does it has all the major  things that will make the machine work in there. If it's there and they look not completely rusted,  then there's a very high chance that it can work again.  

Like the second one, right there; when I got it, it was covered in some sort of weird white dust and it  didn't move. Like you couldn't spin it, you couldn't twist it, anything.  

So I oiled it for a few days and clean it a little bit and when I start to clean it, I was like wow, the  paint is beautiful like it has a good chance you know. And once you start to go a little bit and the  wheel turns just a little bit, OK, it'll work.  

If you leave the oil in the machine for too long and you don't move it, it will, there's a special word I  don't know the word for it, but it like it basically turns the glass solidifies and it will lock the machine.  

So once you unlock it, it's good to go.  

24- So back in the day, you start to make denim for your friend and after that when you  launch the business you start to do whatever the customer wants? 

When I first started like when I was young, you know like 16 and up I did mostly jackets with Tweed  and silk lining and stuff like this. But then when I went to Thailand and didn't make any jackets I  started to do more jeans. And in Thailand I mostly jeans, I would say 90% of all the stuff I made was  just jeans. I did play around with material like just some tweed or some, you know. I didn't do too  much Moleskin there, but you know, just cotton and workwear style materials. When I came to 

Canada because we have Four Seasons, there was a lot of difference in weather, you could  experiment more with different garments and different materials.  

So I use a variety of different materials or whether it be denim, moleskin, chambray, tweeds, wool,  or pretty much anything. And then I also play out with different garments.  

In Thailand was 90% jeans, here it's maybe 50% jeans and the other 50% is shirts, jackets, and vests.  

25- When did you return to Canada? 

Now five years ago, in December 2016.  

26- Since that day, do you think you are more creative?  

A little bit, I mean. It's a tricky one because it's up to my clients. I have an idea, I want to make, but if  no one orders it, I mean, unless I make it for myself, but... I do feel that I do a lot of new and exciting  things, especially since being back in Canada.  

I get to experiment with different garments, so making different styles and stuff. It's been good,  been fun.  

27- But where do you find your inspiration when you do a jacket with a special curve  stitching? 

I have some of the weirder pieces that I do, they either come from, you know, old books about  denim or something where there's a patent. I don't try to just take it right out of the book and make  it, but put my own twist on it or something like this.  

I can show you the patent after if you want, but it's like the customer he showed me, I think 4  drawings from the book, and he said take these four ideas and make it into one pair and that's  where I got the idea for this style.  

It takes a brave customer to decide to pick something that's never been done before, you know?  

Most of the time it's like I want 47s 501 or I want basically this or this. When I do a very unique pant,  other people will see it immediately and say that's the one I want. And when that happens, it's good.  

28- So you can do whatever the customer wants, even the craziest ideas? 

There are some ideas that I say no. Like I don't want to embroider profanity or bad words or  something. if I think that it's not going to look good at all, I won't do it if the shape they want like  super skinny or something, I'll say NO.  

“Come on, you know like I want you to wear my jeans for a long time, not just for this season.” 

29- You are more specialized in workwear products?

I try to avoid the idea that I'm just another one of those menswear shops like you come in and get  something tailor-made like if you want the tailor-made menswear experience, go somewhere else.  

You know I make workwear, I try to put a different flavor to it because it's still custom made and  maybe bespoke is not your favorite word. But you come, you order, I make a pattern for you and I  make your garment.  

30- Bespoke and custom-made is it the same for you? 

Look up the word bespoke in the dictionary. You know it means made to order.  

It depends, how many fittings do you need? If you need more than three fittings, it means you're a  bad tailor.  

If I can get what you want first try, it might be, that I have something to do with skills and not  passion.  

Also, my price is reflective of being a boss and getting it done right the first time.  If you want five fittings, I'm going to charge you an extra five times.  

31- What is the hardest garment that you make? 

This style is very challenging. That yeah, that's a hard one, because like when you make a pair of  pants, the order never changes. You can make the back before, the front whatever, but when you  put it together, it's a specific way. This takes that method and it throws everything out the window.  

You have to do some of this, then some of that, then put the front here, then put it on top, and then  it's just like, it ruins your order you.  

32- For that one for example, is it the customer that said: “I want this”? 

Yeah, yeah yeah, I know he picked it, he saw the designs and said I need this one. I said, “damn it,  you know it's a hard one to make”.  

33- Did he come with a drawing? 

Uh, OK, so the first guy that ordered this one showed me the three or four patents in the book and  he said “take these and make one piece with this design”.  

Since I made that first one for that guy, many people saw this one, because no one can make it.  There is no other brand that does this, so you know other people see it though I want that one.  

34- When you create the garments, what is the most important detail to keep?

It's a good question because when you’re in a custom business, I'm not making 100 of the same  thing over and over and over, it's always different. So each material that I touch is going to move  differently under the foot of the machine.  

So, an example I can cut the same pattern, same jeans, 10 times with ten materials, it's going to feel  different, fit different, look different. When it washes, it's going to shrink differently, so this is very  tricky.  

Some customers ask me, do you make my pattern and keep my name on it?  

Sometimes, but sometimes no, because it doesn't matter if you order seven materials, I'm going to  change the shape on all seven, so that it works to your advantage.  

35- Do you continue to try new materials, to see how they react when you put them on the  washing machine? 

After 17 years of making jeans, I have a very good idea of how this material will shrink, move, or  what will happen to it when I use it. But yeah, I do like to test it a little bit and it's good to always  experiment with the materials.  

36- Can you say today that you are able to work with any material that a customer wants? 

I want to say yes, but for example, I don't use stretch denim, I don't want to touch stretch denim.  Why just I think it's out of principle for me.  

A lot of companies use stretch for comfort and for ease of fit. They make the waistband on the  stretchy side so that anyone can fit it in between a 30 to 34, so that doesn't take too much skill.  When you come here, I want to show you that I know what I'm doing, so pick a material then let me  show you.  

37- What is the process if I want made-to-measure denim? 

I have many different types of customers and there are many different ways of doing it. Sometimes I  have people who come here and they say “Ben, I like what you do, just make me something” and I  go, what the hell?  

So I try like:  

Is this material OK? Can I go crazy or do you want very tonal? And I'll ask questions like that.  

Sometimes people will give me a huge list like two or three pages of point-form notes, I want this  stitch to be like this...  

That's it's fine.  

Sometimes, you know, on your first pair, I wouldn't recommend being too crazy, because then  you're going to have, if you put so many details on your first custom order, there are so many things  to look back on and regret, maybe. So sometimes it's better with your first custom order to have a  classic garment. Do you want to buy a shirt, pick a nice clean button-up, you know, focus on the 

material and the cut. Then on your second order, you can come back and be like “can we add  something here?”.  

Something like this, maybe change the bar tags to red instead of white, or something like this.  

38- Are you only working with selvedge denim? 

I don't only work with selvedge, I have other materials that are not selvedge.  

But selvedge material, it's nice, it's got a cool story behind it, it's interesting, it's original, kind of fits  the theme.  

Again, I'm not trying to make that classic menswear vibe. If you want the perfectly tailored trouser  to go somewhere else. I make jeans. You know using selvedge is a little bit more rugged, it like,  again, it has this story.  

So it's fun to use a material that will age and move with you.  

It's a very cliché answer, but you know, I like it.  

39- Is it easier to work with selvedge denim? 

No, I mean my machines are set up in a way that it's easy for me to work with selvedge denim.  

But if someone gave me super stretch denim with lycra inside or something like this, my machines  would chew it up, it wouldn't work well. So I'd have to re-calibrate them a little bit to handle that  better.  

I have my shop set up in a way that works for me, it works for what I'm doing.  

I do have a lot of different materials on hand or that are available to me and I'm OK with using most  of them, as long as they kind of fit the theme.  

40- Since the beginning, are you running the business only by yourself or are you helped by  someone? 

So it's always been like solo ridership. I did have a couple of people working for me over the years.  In Thailand, I had the Vietnamese refugee for a little while, he was really good, really helpful.  He's super smart, I will show him one time and he would get it.  

And then after he left, I had a Thaï guy that would work with me for a little while.  

His family actually owns a denim factory, so it was quite interesting that if I had a big project or  something that I need to do sometimes, I can get the factory to help me.  

And for those that follow me on Instagram, if you saw when I went to Thailand I posted some videos  at that factory, so it was kind of fun to go and visit.  

And now, since I was been in Canada, I've had a couple of interns. 

But you know, I don't hire anyone per say.  

Sometimes I get friends to help with alterations and repairs like Jean from (@denim.custom.service).  

41- Do you like to transmit your passion to others? 

I don't hide my knowledge. Honestly, I don't make a huge amount of money that I can hire 3 or 4  people. I can make enough, I'm doing this full time to support a family of four.  

Name someone else in the denim industry who makes jeans by themselves and who does it full time, first of all. And do they support themselves or a family of four?  

I'm pretty sure, I'm one of the only ones. My wife doesn't work, my kids don't work, you know so, I  need to work hard.  

42- So, if I want a garment from you, where can I buy it? 

You can either come here, or you can buy online if you feel confident with some of the measuring.  

I do have a measuring guide online, and if you're still worried you can always send me photos of you  wearing the jeans that you measured, or pictures of measuring the jeans.  

But yeah, coming here is always the easiest way to see and feel the material too.  

And sometimes, I have extra stuff here that you can't find online, extra buttons, some rivets, and  stuff like that.  

43- Now, you have customers from all over the world? 

Yes, I have clients pretty much everywhere, on all the continents. I have a regular client who drives  five hours to see me, three times a year, at least three times a year.  

44- How COVID-19 has impacted your business? 

I feel very sorry for everyone who has lost something during this time. However, because I'm not a  mall brand or I don't have like a storefront, I was able to work from my shop alone. And because I  had online orders and a very generous customer base, and also another thing to remember: is that different parts of the world were affected at different times.  

So when there was a lockdown in the states or Canada or whatnot, other places have bought in  February during Chinese New Year. A lot of orders went to China, and different things happened at  different times, so I have to count my blessings and I'm doing great this year, I can't complain.  

45- What is your plan for the future, do you have some projects or dreams? Aw man, I have hopes and dreams, but it's very hard to do it. It's very hard to do it alone.  I don't know. 

OK, so for example, it would be nice to maybe have a few stores.  

Let's say for example 2 stores in Asia, 2 stores in Europe, a store in the States, and a store in Canada  that would carry a selection of some of my stuff. It doesn't have to be a lot, but it could be maybe  like quarterly, they buy 20 pieces and then I would still do some custom.  

If I have a big, or at least if all of those stores were selling and maybe the custom prices could rise a  little bit, then I would have some time to experiment with other things that I want to do, maybe  some hoodies, I don't know.  

46- Do you plan to open a store with a shopping window or do you want to keep your “secret  place”? 

I mean, I want a window but not for you, for me, you know.  

Even in Thailand, I had a very nice shop, with nice big windows, but it was so far inside the street, it  was very hard to go inside and see it. When the customer got there, I call it having like the found  experience, like when you find it, you like “WAAAAOOOOOOOOOO”, you know.  

I think this is valuable to a company because if you're in the mall, or if you have a nice Street like  you're on Queen Street or something and you have a beautiful storefront, 1000 people walk by  every day. But how many people walk in?  

No one you know. Five people out of 1000, who cares. But if your shop is hidden when they come,  they buy something. When I was super young I used to work in retail, at the skateboarding store and  the manager would always talk to us about the ratio of customers who walk in versus customers  who buy. And it was always a bad number. 

But here, it's one-to-one. If you come here, you're getting something.  

Whether it be an alteration or an actual garment, people come here and they buy something.  

47- But where people can find you if they don’t know you? 

It could be as simple as like, just even Googling. I have a lot of guys who just Google “custom jeans”  or like "jeans fit me bad, where do I get like tailor-made jeans custom jeans?”.  

But the best way is word of mouth, and I have a lot of people who talk about me on Reddit or these  things, Reddit is a very dangerous place, be careful, but it's been OK for me so far.  

48- If a customer comes here and knows nothing about denim? 

I'll scan them (laugh). I'll try to teach them to the best of my ability. I know that information, is a lot  sometimes. I try to gauge: how much they want to learn. And is it valuable for them to learn  everything all in one shot? Or just be like, I think you're going to like this. I try to offer them  something that they would appreciate.  

49- You try to educate them!

I mean, I don't want to sound rude but it's not my job to educate them.  

But I do want people to understand what they're getting, so I do explain what I need. If they come in  and they want some like crazy heavy jeans, but the jeans they're wearing are 11 ounces, I'm  probably not going to sell them to you.  

Because it doesn't make sense, you're not going to like it.  

So I try to the best of my ability to explain what you're going to get without having to waste, you  know, hours and hours to start talking about yarn size versus left-hand or right-hand twills, who  cares?  

As long as you like the jeans you should be OK.  

Eventually, we can go deep.  

50- For you, the most important thing is to wear the jeans that you make. 

Yeah, as I told you before when I first had to make jeans, I didn't know what selvedge was, I didn't  even know the jeans. I knew they faded, but I didn't know that they faded, faded. I thought it was  just you design it like that.  

Well, I remember the first jeans that came back to me after one year of wearing them, as I made  them for my neighbor, and after one year he came back and asked for another one. And I said  “Come on, what about the one that I gave you?” and he's like he was wearing them. But I didn't even  recognize them, they were so faded.  

That was a big shock.  

So this sort of idea is that like I didn't know too much going into it, but you don't need to. You just  need to know that you like jeans and if you put them on and it feels good on you that should be  enough, you know.  

You can always nerd out and learn more, but...  

51- Are you working with designers? 

No, not really. Most people, just take my design from Instagram and remix it a little bit.  

52- Do many companies copy you? 

I don't want to use the word copy.  

But influence or inspire or they say like, “oh that's actually pretty crazy”, maybe we can do it, but  then change this a little bit.  

It's tricky because I make one pair at a time, each pair is different, so I have a lot of time to  experiment with these things and they don't. 

53- How long does it take to make jeans? 

I usually tell people it takes 1 jeans a day. If I use the same stitching color for three jeans, I can  probably, stitch them a little bit faster because everything is similar, but yeah, usually if you include  cutting, changing all the thread in the machines, prepping, drawing the pattern, maybe it's one full  day at least, yeah.  

54- Thanks, Ben, do you have something to add? 

I'm pretty chill, when you see someone with the Indigo leaf on the back pocket, it's probably me,  yeah.  

Thanks man.

Justo Gimeno – The Spanish gem

Charles-Édouard Jeanneret-Gris, known as Le Corbusier, had a rational vision of the architectural organization of space. It was essential to be able to do more with less, the optimization of space was an obsession for this visionary creator. This is how he ordered his structures on a free plan and imagined his constructions as a total work of art: his conceptions integrate all collective equipments in a single building. This was the beginning of postmodernism and the rationalization of urban space. Le Corbusier also loved clothing. He was a well-known customer of the Arnys house. Léon Grimbert, head-tailor of the French house, imagined one day a jacket for this peculiar customer. "An elegant jacket that forgets it is part of a suit" boasted Arnys in 2010, the "Forestière". A jacket with a collar without flap and patch pockets, inspired by those worn by the forest rangers of the French region of Sologne. If the house has since disappeared, the heritage of this jacket remains intact. 

The garment is the historical product of its social context, the desire to extirpate from its social condition and the search for comfort are often the catalysts. This hybrid jacket finds its echo in other clothes before it, in particular the hunting jackets. This is the case of the Teba jacket, a revolutionary jacket.

Here is the story of a love affair with clothing as it rarely happens, the Teba jacket by Justo Gimeno being the protagonist.

Let’s have a closer look.

What is a Teba jacket?

The Teba jacket is named from the 22nd Count of Teba, Carlos Alfonso de Mitjans y Fitz-James Stuart (1907 - 1997), grand-nephew of the Empress Eugénie. He was said to be the best shooter in Europe and was given a jacket by King Alfonso XIII (1886 - 1941), cut in Savile Row, which - after some improvements by a tailor from Zarautz, in the Spanish Basque Country - has survived the ages.

My quest 

Like many, after exploring the casual and formal possibilities of my wardrobe, I felt I was missing an in-between. I was looking for a jacket that would be an intermediary between casual and formal. I was looking for a kind of urban slack jacket. 

My fascination began after a trip to Andalusia in 2019 where all the elegant old gentlemen I met on the street were wearing a peculiar jacket with style. I noted the characteristic rounded lapel notch, buttons on the sleeves, 4 central buttons and above all a total absence of interlining. A completely unstructured jacket. It was for me a must have, almost an obsession. I did some research and went to a Sevillian store that sold suits, I learned that it was a jacket called "Teba" from the name of the count who offered this piece to King Alfons XIII for his hunting sprees. The seller told me the other name of the "chaqueta Teba" was "la tiradora", because one "shoots" with it. Heading this time to "El Corte Inglés" - equivalent of Galeries Lafayette in Spain - I discover that the Tebas are sold as timeless garments but in limited fabrics and colors: cotton/jersey and mostly blue or green. As often, no size could satisfy my body shape.

Back in Paris, I started looking for a Teba, in vain. I even ordered one from a tailor, but the result was not convincing, I did not find the casualness with which these old Sevillian gentlemen used to wear this chaqueta. I also ordered one on the Spanish website Lopez Aragon, but again, the Teba was missing something.

I had heard of Spanish workshops that made Tebas. Bel y Cia in Barcelona was one of them, a tailoring house making Tebas in MTM - Made to Measure - but extremely expensive. I did some research and found Justo Gimeno, in Zaragoza. I see that they are distributed in Paris at Beige Habilleur but unfortunately the selected sizes did not suit me ... Justo Gimeno has no website, but they do have an Instagram account! This is how my adventure with Justo Gimeno began. 

A house more than a century old

In 1885, Justo Gimeno Padrilla left Argentina to train as a tailor in Spain, opening his first workshop in Zaragoza.  For some years, the company has been collaborating with several brands, making Tebas for them (Merchant Fox is one of them, always in exclusive fabrics).

Justo Gimeno obviously offers a tailoring service in Zaragoza. But since I couldn't get there easily, I asked them if it was possible to do "remote Made-To-Measure". It's a risky endeavor when you don't know your measurements well, but I've already ordered entire suits following this principle (my Prologue Hong Kong suits and jackets for example!).  An exchange of emails with the sales manager followed and I then ordered two jackets: one in blue fresco wool and the other in green linen. 

The conquest

Once I received the jackets, I was conquered. The measurements were perfect, the jackets well cut. Justo Gimeno does not - to my knowledge – make remote MTM. For this reason, I had ordered a surplus of blue fresco fabric to make trousers to transform this Teba jacket into a suit. I did this with Ardentes Clipei, a tailor in Paris.

Today I have several Teba jackets, all from Justo Gimeno. The fabrics, the service, the quality and the overall rendering are incredible. 

I often wear a Teba jacket as a mismatch, but I can also turn it into a suit with my blue fresco trousers. I often wear it to work as pictured here: a blue knit tie, an OCBD flap pocket, knee socks and belgian loafers from Crown Northampton. Nothing prevents me from swapping these loafers for canvas shoes for example. Because that's the advantage of an outfit with a Teba jacket: everything is possible.

The perfect jacket 

Since lockdown (Act I, March 2020), our way of dressing has evolved. Less suits, more comfort. But comfort does not come before style. For this reason, I think the Teba jacket is the most attractive piece in my wardrobe. I wear it continuously and on all occasions: work, outings and even weddings...I constantly get compliments and questions about it when I wear it, and I always answer them with the same enthusiasm. If you're still not convinced, consider even James Bond wore a Teba jacket. It was in 1989, with Timothy Dalton in License to Kill.

Where to find a Teba in Paris/France?  

- Beige Habilleur (exclusive distributor of Justo Gimeno in France)

- Cifonelli

- Artumès & Co

- Artling

- Berteil

On which websites can I find a Teba ? 

- The Armoury

- Michael Jondral

- Curzon Classics

- Oliver Brown

- Last of England

- Bel y Cia

- The Merchant Fox

- Lopez Aragon

Trickers - UK’s oldest shoe manufacturer

Tricker’s

UK’s oldest shoe manufacturer

In 1935, the art critic Walter Benjamin published The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction. In this philosophical essay, the German author poses the question of the uniqueness of a work of art: to what extent does it remain unique when reproduced? In this respect, the question is to ensure that the reproducibility does not alter the aura of the work itself. The aura can be identified as what intrinsically characterizes this work or object. For Benjamin, the more a work is reproduced, the less it retains its original uniqueness - we can safely even speak of authenticity. In the Art world, let’s take the example of the Orthodox icon. It retains its aura in that each one is unique. Conversely, it loses it when it is reproduced en masse through the medium of photography or printing. 

Marcel Duchamp went against this ideology by using ready-made everyday objects in his work. Everyday objects – largely reproduced – become art, refuting Benjamin's theory. 

By adhering to this vision, we no longer accept to be the owner of an original work but of a unique know-how. To this extent, this is the case for the world of clothing, some brands are the product of a centuries-old technical mastery. This is the case of the English shoe brand Tricker's, with a 193-year heritage. We’re honored to present the United Kingdom’s oldest shoe manufacturer, a review consisting of two pairs.

Style breakdown.

The current Tricker's factory
Image trickers.com

Joseph Barltrop founded R.E. Tricker & Co. in 1829 as a 19-year-old master bootmaker. When he died 50 years later, the brand passed into the hands of his son-in-law, Walter James Barltrop. He opened the way for the waterproof shoes and boots, what Tricker's is known for today. The famous Country Boots convey a typically English vibe. They were designed to be used for hunting, in the forest or for any other activity in damp terrain. While many brands have moved away from this style, Tricker's has stayed true to its DNA, much to the delight of all Gentlemen who whish to remain stylish in all circumstances. 

More than 5 generations later, the brand is still in the same family fold. The current Tricker's factory, which opened in 1904, is located at 56-60 St. Michael's Rd, Northampton. All Tricker's shoes are proudly made here. 

As a symbol of this exceptional know-how, Tricker's still has a bespoke service. A desire to maintain the old Northampton shoe manufacturing methods. A service that also attracts new generations of craftsmen, such as Adele Williamson who trained alongside Scott McKee - a famous Tricker's bootmaker - and who now leads Tricker's bespoke teams.

Another symbol of excellence, Tricker's has held a "Royal Warrant" granted by the Prince of Wales since 1989. This is a system in place since the 15th century that officially recognizes high quality suppliers. For example, Corgi, Turnbull & Asser or Barbour also hold this warrant.  

No wonder Prince Charles has his own custom-made Tricker's shoes!

The video below illustrates perfectly the history of Tricker's and its know-how. Their shoe lasts are made by Spring Line, the last lasts manufacturer in Great Britain.

In addition to the Country classics, Tricker's is also known for its collaborations with the most beautiful brands such as Margaret Howell, Junya Watanabe and Engineered Garments. 

So it was only logical that we talk about this (almost) two hundred year old brand. For this review, we chose the iconic Daniel and Bourton models.

THE BOURTON - A BESTSELLER FOR OVER 70 YEARS

If there is one brand that can boast of producing sturdy shoes, it’s Tricker's. The Bourton model is still assembled in Northampton in a Goodyear storm welt stitching, which means that the outsole is even more protected in rainy events. More than 260 operations are required to make such a pair!

This is the brogue derby that we think is among the most recognizable on the feet of enthusiasts. The toe is round and generous, exactly as we like it. The last or shape, is the 4444 - which was born for the ascension to the throne of King George VI - sizes slightly larger than other traditional shoes, which is why Tricker's advises to opt for the lower half size (instead of an 8 UK, choose a 7.5 UK). But still, this is not an exact science, this is why we always recommend trying on a pair before purchase.

The black leather of our model has the particularity of being bookbinded. This means that a layer of polyurethane has been applied to make it waterproof. If some people don't like this particular leather because it tends to mark as the pair ages, we think that regular maintenance with a Saphir repair fluid and shoe trees will render this pair timeless. 

When and on what occasions should you wear the Bourton?  We'd say every day, but when it's not too hot. And if it's raining, the Bourton won't fail you.

We like to pair them with a navy suit, formal trousers, but not so much with jeans - we reserve that option for the other model below, the Daniel. Here we're wearing it with a pair of blue flannel trousers, a vanilla OCBD and a Prince of Wales patterned wool jacket by our friends Prologue. 

But the Bourton is still very versatile, and you can easily pair it with a more casual outfit. 

THE DANIEL - LIGHT, FLEXIBLE AND MODERN 

The Daniel is a classic 4-eyelet derby shoe with minimalist styling and a rugged look. It's clearly an all-around shoe that will go perfectly with your formal and casual attire. 

The first thing you notice when you try it on is the weight! It is massive and yet so light. That's due in part to the Vibram Vi-Lite outsole that has a rugged commando look while being extremely light and comfortable.  The midsole-less construction that acts as a midsole also takes weight off and adds flexibility without compromising too much on quality or durability. 

This pair is also modern in the leather it uses. A Tricker's exclusive Olivvia leather that is tanned using olive leaves. This vegetable tanned leather is made in partnership with Wet-Green and Weimheimer Tannery. 

Where to find them?

The brand has two stores, one in London on Jermyn Street and one in Japan.  In Paris we would advise you to go to Royal Cheese. 

Finally, online you can order directly on their website or through retailers such as Mr Porter.

MUST-HAVES

We like quality shoes, well finished and aesthetically pleasing ones. Tricker's fulfills these requirements perfectly. Northampton being UK’s leather, we are very honored to have been able to write about yet another brand from this region, confirming our first intuitions: these shoes are well made, robust and stylish.

Reader's Attire #7 - Tanguy

Reader's Attire

Tanguy @kerloazdiary

The vast majority of clothes I wear have already known one or more lives. Meaning: I've only been buying second-hand clothes since I was 15. In this Spring season that is slowly but surely opening up, I am drawn to a soft color palette but never austere tones.

The overcoat is a ready-to-wear Franco Prinzivalli (ex-student of Mario Donnini) made in Japan. Its light wool makes it a partner of choice in the midst of the climatic yo-yo of seasonal changes. I have been using it for X years and it accompanies me everywhere.

I wear a straight jacket from the St Andrews workshops, a discreet transalpine subcontractor working for several well-known houses. I don’t appreciate soft shoulders and unstructured jackets, this is why I find this jacket very appealing : I am a fan of the lining used in their clothes, both robust and light, which promotes a clean and precise fit. The latter is a cold wool with a fairly dense reinforcement.

Even if I appreciate the "splashy" and light blues (on others), I recognize that my seven blazers are all cut in darker fabrics...In particular this deep midnight blue which enchants me every time I rediscover it in the morning. Here, I wear a white linen pochette inherited from family members, it’s really a touch of Summer in this outfit. “Of the mask and the appearance, one must not make a real essence of them, nor of the foreigner the proper. We don't know how to distinguish the skin from the shirt” wrote Montaigne in his Essays. If clothing is all about politics in our human societies, my cotton shirt is above all just a modest vestige from the old collections of Luciano Barbera. It is a second skin, firstly because of the cut, but also because of this cinnamon brown which fits naturally into many of my outfits. I'm a fan of the Prince of Wales motif because of how much fun I can have in any outfit, especially when it comes to shirts. I particularly like this one, even if its previous owner had a shorter arm than I.

I wear my clothes cheerfully. I hear some connoisseurs say that a well-made garment does not wear out. These glossy brown trousers are no exception to this law. Bought several years ago, it is branded Vigano who turned out to be an unknown but good trouser maker from Italy (what else). However, the weft of this wool has not escaped, in certain areas, of the wear and tear of time.

My socks are knee-highs - new, like all my underwear - and signed Archiduchesse and echo the windowpane checks on my shirt. It is therefore one of the "fun" moments of the outfit, for those who had not seen it.

The shoes are from Tricker's. The leather is used but I still believe they look great. And their skin color "matches" my shirt. Above all, they truly feel like slippers.

As for accessories, they boil down to two pieces here: my pair of Paul Smith glasses (which you won't see) with their smoky brown clip-on sunglasses, like an autocrat from a Mediterranean state, and this LIP watch caliber R25 which turned 60. The original bracelet got destroyed this year, I recently opted for a steel model like the “Breitling Gainsbourg”. I still don't know if it's a good choice or not, but it changes me: pleasure also resides in change.

Eduardo De Simone - EDESIM⎟Neapolitan sartoria

"Vedi Napoli e poi muori" said Goethe. This roughly translates to "see Naples and die". The fascination for the Parthenopean city has been a vogue over the centuries. If in the 18th and 19th centuries it was the center of the « Grand Tour », an initiatory journey of aristocrats from all over Europe, the city declined in the 20th century. Tourists prefering the Eternal City or Florence and Venice, Naples was heavily marked by the Second World War and branded as a dirty, noisy and dangerous city. It is now experiencing a renaissance. Those who have already been to Naples can attest to the fact that this city has an incredible charm. The alleys, the inhabitants, the food and of course the sortarias by the hundreds. 

We offer you a journey in these narrow streets, this special atmosphere, thanks to Eduardo De Simone.

Let's take a look.

HISTORY

It was 1954 and Eduardo De Simone had just opened the "Edesim" sartoria in Naples. With the help of his family - his wife Carmela and his sons Vincenzo, Michele and Rino - the tailor shop became a flourishing industrial enterprise and worked for the most important European fashion brands.

In 2006 a new chapter began. Eduardo Jr. took over the company and redefined its identity. This is how the factory's own brand was born: Edesim. 

Edesim's range of products, which is rather rare for a clothing workshop, goes from made-to-measure suits to ready-to-wear and MTM. 

Edesim's jackets take on the characteristics of the Neapolitan school: they are unstructured, the shoulders are natural and the fabrics often have a certain British touch. 

An offer that is now available online. Because yes, Edesim has joined our long list of workshops that are known and recognized in the professional textile world but not yet sufficiently known by the end consumer. This workshop is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful companies in the world of costume making. A little jewel.

We had the opportunity to talk with Eduardo, who kindly accepted to answer some of our questions. We are pleased to reveal a short interview with Eduardo De Simone.

---

How was the Eduardo De Simone brand born?

In honor of my grandfather Eduardo, whose name and surname I bear. I owe my love for this profession to him and my father.

What are your sources of inspiration?

I don't think we can talk about a source of inspiration, but the big brands I work for have certainly had an indirect influence on my vision of fashion.

Can you tell us how the jacket we are presenting is made? And the trousers?

The jacket is partly produced in a traditional construction that includes full interlining of the front of the jacket, hand stitching of the bottom of the jacket, placket, under collar, sleeve lining, buttonholes and buttons. The chest pocket is in "barchetta" and the pockets are reminiscent of the Pignatiello shape. Of course, we can also make the jacket entirely by hand, but this is only available for the Bespoke service.

Is "handmade in Italy" important in today's menswear landscape?

It is important being open to new things and therefore your work and craftsmanship evolve and are updated. A characteristic that I find intrinsic to the figure of the craftsman, always ready to take on new challenges, so I like to imagine myself as an entrepreneurial craftsman.

Finally, if you had to recommend an essential piece of clothing to have in your wardrobe, what would it be and why?

It's true that clothes don't make the man, but I believe that during the first 10 minutes of a date, whether romantic or business, the first impression is fundamental.

Grazie Eduardo !

HOW THE GARMENTS FEEL

We tried 2 pieces from Edesim. Obviously a jacket, in size 48. Its classic and elegant design is made of 100% wool Vitale Barberis Canonico of 240 gr/mt, which is perfect for Spring even if at the time of the photoshoot it was particularly cold!

The jacket looks and feels really good, it's completely unstructured and we really like this green and red/orange check which is quite uncommon.

It is a model "Zero" of the new capsule collection of Eduardo de Simone.

Main features:

• single breasted jacket 

• three-button roll two

• armhole "a camicia

• patch pockets

• double vents (something we prefer) 

• partly handmade in Naples

The second piece we tried on was a pair of sartorial denim trousers: this is the second time we've offered them on Les Indispensables and we're conquered. The first time was with Prologue. If historically denim is intended for a more casual use, we love here the overall formal rendering. Several models are proposed by Edesim. They are part of the new Zed collection made of a 10 oz blue denim cotton. 

According to the models, three styles are available:

• 1st style: Flat front, high waist and slightly slim fit 

• 2nd style: Traditional one pleat, medium waist and classic fit 

• 3rd style : Two pleats, medium size and straight cut : the one we tried

All three styles have a zipper fly, metal buttons and belt loops. 

The bottom comes unfinished so you can have it altered to your prefered length. 

We tried on a size 46. The waist was slightly tight, a 48 would probably have been more appropriate. But it doesn't matter because Edesim leaves enough cloth inside to gain a size.  As for the fit, the leg is wide enough to be comfortable without overdoing it. The right balance. 

In summary, these pieces are the perfect compromise between a casual and more dressed up wardrobe. A double rendering we really appreciate.

IN BRIEF

Naples sets home in Paris, but for good this time. EDS is one of those workshop brands that have a recognized know-how and, with the advent of the Internet, are trying to develop it as much as possible while focusing on what is their strength: high-end clothing offered at contained prices. 

At EDS, the product is king and its kingdom is Naples.

Lutays

French craftsmanship at it’s finest, Lutays. Some of you may already know this brand, we met Jean-Baptiste a few months back and he told us everything on his wonderful brand.

Could you tell us about your career path?

I’ve always dreamt of working in the exceptional realm of craftsmanship for men, I arrived in Paris after my law studies to do an internship at the bootmaker Pierre Corthay in sales and marketing. The experience went well and I came back to work for them in quality control and logistics.

I was then advised to move to a large group. So I went to Bottega Veneta (Kering group), first in a boutique and then in charge of sales training in department stores.

Afterwards, I managed the Lavabre Cadet glove factory and its’ workshop for a few years before launching Lutays in 2020. A rather long journey in the end (about ten years), without shortcuts but with a happy outcome!

How was the project born?

The project was born from a dual observation: at the Pitti Uomo show in Florence, when I noticed the absence of a clearly defined French style, like the Italian, English and American styles. Unlike the Parisian style for women which is known worldwide.

Then, I noticed during a trunk show in Hong Kong, customers usually ordering bespoke suits were desperately looking for an elegant and casual outfit adapted to their daily life. They seemed unsatisfied by the solutions proposed by the local tailors, or in fashion, sportswear and even vintage.

As a purist at heart, I wanted to elevate the casual wardrobe to the quality level of bespoke. Style, pattern, fashion, materials... Everything was rethought to obtain exceptional pieces and to be up to this ambitious project. Lutays was therefore created by developing a typically French casual elegance based on couture know-how.

What do you offer?

We primarily offer casual jackets. There are currently 8 permanent models to suit all tastes and built. Everything is made to order, in a single quality, ready-to-wear or made-to-measure. Our accessories share the same philosophy and the same concern of quality as our jackets.

Orders can be placed in our Parisian showroom (4bis Passage Landrieu, Paris 7ème) by appointment or on our online store. For delivery, please allow 6 weeks.

Who is it for?

Men who wish to invest in a stylish and comfortable wardrobe for their current lifestyle that mixes travel, career, family and friends. Our clientele is international, cultured, dynamic, knowledgeable and Francophile. We are also beginning to receive orders from women who appreciate the quality and character of our pieces.

Why did you choose Made In France?

France is the country of excellence, elegance and high fashion. The talents and workshops we work with are unique. It's ultimately a question of honesty since French style, culture and know-how are at the heart of Lutays.

Producing locally, encouraging employment and the preservation of an extraordinary culture, having optimal social conditions for the workers... For some these are marketing arguments but for us it is an integral part of the brand.

What is your favorite piece?

We are fortunate to have customers with good taste, the orders are often interesting. Since the designs are thought of as permanent and our fabrics are often limited, we continue to be surprised by the potential of each piece as orders come in. That said, I am currently enjoying the « Pilote » in barathea which is perfect for travel and the city with its many pockets and wrinkle-free fabric.

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Merci Jean-Baptiste !

Reader's Attire #5 - René

Reader's Attire #5

The Ivy jacket I’m wearing is an MTM J.Keydge: In tweed fabric from the shop Depaz in Bologna and made by my friend Ahmet Temel from the Temel workshop. Ahmet worked for many years at J.keydge and now makes MTM jackets for J.Keydge and others in the north of Paris. These jackets are unstructured and completely unlined. A joy to wear. I have several but this one is unique. I even have the pleasure of knowing personally Francois-Ferdinand, the founder of this fantastic French brand. A forerunner in his genre. F.Ferdinand was a visionary because he anticipated the trend of the natural shoulder and the "soft look" a long time ago.

5 pockets, sleeveless jacket, chambray shirt and knit tie from Breuer. Walter Breuer is a long time friend and I have learned a lot from him as a customer for over 20 years now. He is one of few references of the "French preppy" style of the French Riviera with Façonnable. For me Breuer is the true heir of casual chic à la Façonnable. A must have!

Shoes from Tricker's, model "Bourton". Bought in Jermyn Street in London, these are the most beautiful "country shoes" I know. An icon, you know.

Drake's scarf, a brand that I consider to be one of the compasses of today's menswear. A good mix of Ivy, British, French and Italian chic. In addition, I know and appreciate Michael Hill the Creative Director. A real gentleman !

The cap is a Brooks Brothers, Made in USA, in New York. We all admire Brooks Brothers for their history even if the brand is not what it used to be. But it remains a legend for me.

The glasses are Lunor, made in Germany, like me. A great example of engineering that the Germans are capable of. In addition, I find them very beautiful.

The watch is a Vintage Ducado in gold. I inherited it from my father. Thank you Dad, I will always love you!

And finally the bracelet with the little silver medal from "GabyLF". My wife's jewelry brand, which has a real history and meaning. Available at 4, rue de Sèvres in Paris.

PML Clothing

PML Clothing

Comfortable garments made in Italy in limited quantities

On December 28, 1895, at 14 Boulevard des Capucines in Paris, in the Indian Room of the Grand Café, the Lumière brothers held their first film screening: "Sortie de l'usine Lumière à Lyon". The spectators discovered the word “cinema” for the first time. This invention revolutionized the end of the century, which had already been marked by the creation of photography in 1839 by Nicéphore Niepce and Daguerre. Image takes a predominant place in society, the press at that time even feared that the movies were going to "kill" theater and especially painting. However, this "Seventh Art" only completed the already established ones, it became an unavoidable medium of expression.

Strong of this heritage, this new means of expression irrigated fashion while channeling it. Like painting with its classifications, cinema also has its own; thus, feature films, short films and documentaries cohabit. The latter claims to show reality "without filter", an approach that particularly resonates to us as it erases everything superfluous. In this line, what could be more exciting - in our opinion - than to combine documentary and menswear? Gianluca Migliarotti, aka Kiddandy, the director of the most beautiful documentaries on sartorial art - I Colori Di Antonio, O'mast or E poi c'è Napoli - strikes again, but this time by creating his own clothing brand, PML. After the Bespoke trousers at "Pommella Napoli", Gianluca tackles a broader and more accessible wardrobe, from coats to two-pocket jackets and polo shirts.

We are honored - to say the least - to review two overshirts, both available on the PML’s website, as well as a brief interview with Gianluca.

Before we get to our review, we are pleased to unveil an exclusive interview with Gianluca.

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You have directed several documentaries resulting in true masterpieces, including I Colori Di Antonio, O’mast and E poi c'è Napoli. What made you create your brand?

It all stems from my experience as a film director and my passion for quality clothing. A director must have an overall vision and a strong imaginative ability. When you shoot some scenes you already have an idea of how they will be edited, with what music, what emotion you want to convey to the viewer; it's a very similar process that happens for me with a fabric. Often it all starts from there: you see a fabric that strikes you and you touch it, you look at it and try to imagine what could come out of it. In short, being able to remain open-minded and creative, knowing how to play around what you have in front of you.

In a world where everything is goes faster and faster, how did you choose the clothes you wanted to produce with PML ? 

Being in a hurry, you can make choices that are already in you and that you are sure of, but if they are not long-standing desires they are not very exciting. Let's say that commercially the world goes very fast, but we are part of those small brands that take the time to grow as they like, making choices as sustainable as possible, doing research or sometimes finding vintage fabric stock. Style comes from experiences, from needs. What I produce is what I use myself and want to share with others.

Where are PML clothes made ? Only in Naples ?

Some products are made in Naples, others in Milan or in Sicily. Each garment has its’ own special workforce need. Everything is made in Italy, of course.

What are your sources of inspiration for PML ?

I am constantly observing life and the world around me. I admire the style of many people and learn from everyone. Observing everyday life and its needs is very important to me. I have particular admiration for those people who in their daily lives cannot do without a certain aesthetic and add an item, a detail, to their look even on normal or particularly busy days. Clothing is a language and I find that those who manage to preserve and take care of a certain aesthetic, without overdoing it, of course, communicate love, care and beauty to the world. In short, people are my sources of inspiration.

What is your favorite item of clothing in your closet right now?

I don't have one in particular, it depends on the day, but lately my Palazzi flannel overshirt is a must, versatile and comfortable, but also dressy with its green melange, really beautiful. Yesterday I picked up my last jacket from my tailor and friend Ciro Zizolfi, who with his son Andrea has been making the most beautiful and true Neapolitan jackets for years now, incredible quality, in a special selected fabric by Fox; I think it could easily become my must-have of the moment, it's a wonder.

Finally, our readers will kill us if we don't ask the question: do you have a project in mind or (in production) of a future documentary?

Actually I've been working on it for some time now, but with little continuity. It is a research in Milanese aesthetics, known to few or not noticed because it is sober and not shouted, but of great depth. It's not an easy job, but it's one I'm very interested in.

Thank you so much Gianluca !

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For this article, we have at our disposal two overshirts. One in green wool flannel from Fox Brothers – the special edition "Palazzi" model - and the other in an alpaca wool.

THE "PALAZZI"

Let's start with the first one. The jacket has a regular cut, with two patch chest pockets as well as hidden side pockets. The fabric is a thick wool flannel from Fox and overall the style is beautiful. We particularly love the collar ! On this note, we leave it voluntarily up, not only for the photoshoot but surely by habit.

Fox Brothers is one of our favorite fabric manufacturers. A shirt, a jacket or a pair of trousers made in one of their wools immediately captures our attention. It's a real marvel. When we saw this overshirt was made in one of their fabrics, we were immediately captivated. 

Upon reception, we were not disappointed. The color is not your typical forest green, it’s beautiful in the daylight. This fabric is woven especially for PML by Fox Brothers. The name refers to Alessandro Palazzi, manager of the Duke bar in London, and customer at Pomella Napoli. One of his trousers was made in this wool selected by Gianluca. Upon seeing the Alessandro Palazzi pants, Douglas Corbeaux, owner of Fox Brothers, and a friend of Gianluca's, suggested that the fabric be made exclusively for Pomella Napoli and PML. In homage to Alessandro Palazzi, PML called it "Palazzi" flannel.

The flannel is amazing. It has a soft feel, very comfortable to wear.

The overshirt is fitted with two side pockets and two chest pockets. Yes, the side pockets are hidden on the side of the overshirt. They are almost invisible...and we love it! By positioning them there the silhouette is much more streamlined. As for the two chest pockets, they are deep enough to put your wallet, phone or keys. 

It's an overshirt that reminds us a lot of the American CPO army overshirt. The difference? Gianluca's is made in Italy in a beautiful flannel. It may not have lived through the war, but it will protect you from the cold while looking stylish.

If we had to find one or two flaws, we would say that in our opinion it is a shame that there are no sleeve closure buttons and that the cuff closure button is probably a little too close to the edge, making its closure less convenient. Finally, if the hidden pockets are very nice, they can sometimes be less practical to use, located a little too far back. 

In conclusion, this jacket overshirt is a real must-have piece. Its color, the fabric, its sturdiness and especially the collar are really a home-run. We wear it over a shirt, a sweater, under a balmacaan coat. In short, it is one of our favorite pieces for this Winter.

THE ALPACA OVERSHIRT

This model has the same characteristics as the "Palazzi" overshirt. The only difference is the fabric, made in a super-soft alpaca fabric. A luxurious material making this overshirt incredibly warm. This type of fabric is not so easy to find in the Ready-to-Wear. We particularly like the softness of the fabric, the herringbone pattern and its very soft touch. 

Looking at our pictures, you might have the impression that this is some kind of tweed or Shetland fabric that itches or stings. But no, the fabric is really soft!

And like the green overshirt, the jacket interior is very neatly finished. It is semi-lined with a cotton flannel from the very famous English weaver Thomas Mason. Another one of our favorite weavers!

This jacket is offered in limited quantities, so don’t sleep on it!

For information, Marcos is 1m70, 60kg and opted for a size S.

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To sum up, what better way to say it than in the words of Gianluca:

"Life is about traveling, meeting people, observing. I want men to have fun and feel comfortable with their look. I want them to express themselves. PML is my project searching for something special that I can share with my people. No fake myths, no exaggerations. It’s what I wear too. This project, wether ready-to-wear or made-to-Order, is all about quality. Everything is made in small batches with vintage or rare fabrics, old stock buttons and sewn with care. It’s my kid." 

We strongly invite you to discover the rest of PML’s pieces, some of them will become for sure indispensables.

Reader's Attire #3 Tibo

Reader’s Attire #3

I've always wanted to wear a beret, but I couldn’t dare to wear one until a few months ago.

Then finally, when I saw Wes Anderson's latest movie (go see it, it's a real laugh), I saw the actor Owen Wilson wearing one and it made sense. I did some research and learned that it was a Laulhère. I wanted one. I stopped by their shop in Paris, tried on a few models and then decided on a beret with a leather headband, in a navy blue merino wool, and I asked to have a reduced head width – making it more military and less "French". This is the advantage of brands having their own manufacture, you can change some small details. Since I got it, I wear it all the time !

The scarf I'm wearing is from a thrift store, Son & Image in Paris, it's the first thrift store I went to when I came here a few years ago. I buy a lot of second hand. It’s cheaper and you have access to lost cuts or patterns. Most of all, it has less impact on our planet. This one is made out of a good old Scottish cashmere. I like the Royal Stewart tartan pattern, the red is very bright, the cashmere keeps on getting softer and softer.

Because I often have cold hands, I’m wearing here a pair of gloves from Agnelle. In my opinion,

one of the best brands taking "quality/price ratio" to another level for this product. They are made in France, in a deer leather that ages very well, with a cashmere lining. I had another pair from them but lost them, I bought the same ones over again, why change? This model doesn't allow me to use my phone when I wear them (unlike other models from them). It's not so bad, even if I realize how much addicted I am to them... On my wrist I’m wearing a Nivada, a watch from the 1970s. The brand doesn't exist anymore, I found it second hand at a good price and immediately fell in love.

My tote bag is a useful purchase from Shakespeare and Co. It is very practical, inexpensive, with thick cotton canvas…for all those reason making it my favorite totebag, maybe also because it is my favorite bookstore in Paris: the book selection, the history the atmosphere, the sofas and the cat that walks around... You have to go there at least once!

It was relatively cold on the day of the photoshoot, that’s why I’m wearing thick cotton twill chinos. They are from Casatlantic, a small brand that only makes trousers and shorts

in Morocco. It was created by Nathaniel Asseraf (one of the buyers of Swedish thrift store Broadway and Sons), this one is a reproduction of a pair of trousers from the 50's he found. So it has all the features I was looking for: high waist, straight cut and tabs on the sides. 

I have to confess I’m not very fond of wearing a turtleneck and a scarf at the same time…that is nevertheless exactly what I’m doing here ! The rollneck is from Sunspel, it's a staple and is made from a fine merino wool navy blue color. I was gifted this garment a few years ago when I was working in fashion.  

The jacket I have is one of my favorite purchases of the last few months, I keep coming back to it. It is from the 60's, from a brand that unfortunately doesn't exist anymore. I found it through an American who collects Ivy pieces, it was too small for him, perfect for me. We had and exchange via PayPal, I prayed for it to go through customs, and it arrived two weeks later. I love the style, the faux three button, the flawless lapel roll, no padding, single back slit, a bit of room to the chest, two buttons on the sleeves, semi-lined. I even found a Union tag inside, the one from the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America. I spent an hour getting lost on sites referencing the types of tags to date it (mine is between 1962 and 1976 if you must know).

With this outfit, I’m wearing a pair of Red Wings, their Blacksmith model in greasy leather. They were given to me a little over a year ago. They are very suitable for the Parisian weather and they pair with a lot of garments in my wardrobe. They have become my go-to boots. One day I would love to replace them with a pair of cordovan boots from Alden, maybe for my first trip to the US?

Lastly, I’m wearing an original M65 parka from the US army. One I've been looking for a while. It was always either too expensive, or in bad condition, or not in my size... This one I found in a thrift shop in Toulouse, underneath a pile of big coats! It dates from the early 70's, I love its aluminum zip which contrasts with the green canvas and I love the story behind the piece, the image it conveys in popular culture. It was in perfect condition when I bought it (at a very decent price), I didn't hesitate very long and I don't regret it. It is very practical (this is an argument that often comes to my mind) I can wear it with just about anything.

Crown Northampton – AWMS collab, the Brockton Belgian loafers

Crown Northampton – AWMS collab

The Brockton Belgian loafers

Note: At our request, Crown Northampton agreed to send us the loafers that you will discover in this article.

At the 26th Salon des Indépendants in Paris in 1910, visitors could admire a painting entitled "And the Sun settled on the Adriatic", signed by a certain Joachim-Raphaël Boronali. At the time, this painting caused a great stir. Indeed, the lively polychrome brushstrokes used by this mysterious artist left visitors perplexed. At the end of the Salon, the public was flabbergasted as they discovered the artist was none other than...a donkey. This little experiment, at the initiative of Roland Dorgelès, was to prove it was indeed possible to "paint like a donkey, praise a picture and also contribute to modern painting". 

This curious History of Art anecdote allows us to approach the art of illusion. Illusion not in the intention to deceive, but in that of blending into the background. To this end, a men’s wardrobe is full of pieces allowing us to follow this doctrine. For instance, military clothing with camouflage patterns - "camo", for the most knowledgeable - have invaded the streets in recent years. 

However, there is a missing link for an outfit to be in complete harmony: footwear. How does one dress the feet with a little fantasy? Why should this only be reserved for the upper body? Fortunately, we found the answer to this unsupportable dilemma.

The English brand Crown Northampton - on which we had already written about - has partnered up with Anthony Sylvester, a brilliant journalist, giving birth to an absolutely unique pair of shoes: the Brockton Belgian Loafer. Their inimitable quality is what makes them beautiful: the upper resembles a leopard’s coat.

We are truly honored to present them to all our readers, through an interview of Anthony Sylvester, founder of the new brand AWMS.

You've recently launched your own brand, AWMS. What made you choose slippers over more "traditional" shoes (derbies, loafers, sneakers...)?

Over lockdown, I simply stopped wearing shoes with laces completely. I went from indoor shoes to outdoor shoes seamlessly - essentially replacing one pair of slippers for another. Just before that happened, Crown Northampton made me a special-order pair of their Brockton slippers in black kudu suede with a cordovan apron and they became my de facto uniform for the next year or so. They're deceptively hard wearing and tough for such a delicate looking shoe.

I started the brand a little under a year ago with the ethos of making things that I wanted that didn't already exist in the world, so a special Brockton slipper with an animal print apron certainly fit that criteria!

Leopard, cheetah and jaguar. Those are the animals you chose to print on your collaboration with Crown Northampton. Do these animals mean something special to you ? Why choose to offer your (unique !) slippers in these particular animal prints ?

I love animal print in menswear. It works in a similar way to camouflage in my opinion, and has been utilized by subcultures from the rockers to the punks. I thought they would add a little flamboyant touch to a very classy and discreet shoe. The specific prints were chosen to compliment the suede colours of the body of the shoe. I think they work perfectly.

Northampton is the UK's "leather belt", what made you choose Crown Northampton over any other manufacturer ?

I think Crown Northampton have a rich and varied heritage, and make some exciting and unique offerings - the Jazz collection in particular. So many Northampton makers just make variations on a theme, whereas Crown are genuinely forward thinking. Also, their business model is "made-to-order" which I think is both practical and ethical.

How do you convince someone who has never worn animal print shoes to do so ? Where should one start ?

If you can wear camo, you can wear animal print. Let the shoes be the accent to the outfit and keep everything else fairly neutral or restrained.

Lastly, how would you pair them in an outfit ?

The leopard print I would wear with old 501s, white socks and a beaten-up old Oxford shirt. The Jaguar with a grey flannel suit with cashmere socks and rollneck. And the Cheetah with Gurkha shorts, no socks and a camp collar shirt.
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Thanks a ton Anthony !

Regarding size, we recommend you choose your usual one. In our case, a 6.5UK. The Kudu leather as well as the half-rubber sole make them a perfect indoor or outdoor shoe. The Crown x AWMS Belgian Loafers are a true home-run from our point of view !

Thank you once again Anthony for taking the time off your busy schedule and thank you Crown Northampton for trusting us in the long run.

If you wish to order your pair, please let us know or write to info@crownnorthampton.com to order your MTO pair, you won’t regret it !

Reader's Attire #2 Nicolas

Headwear is essential in my wardrobe. During the Winter to protect me from the cold and in the Summer to protect me from the sun. My baldness doesn’t help !  

I often wear an orange beanie with this down jacket (I might as well go all-in) but the pouring rain during the photoshoot led me to opt for a cap instead. This one, in corduroy, comes from "An Ivy Copenhagen", a Danish brand very inspired by the golden age of Ivy style and discovered thanks to one of my Instagram contacts (@lanecdotedemonsieur). I regret not having chosen my Yankees cap to please Romain (@lastrolab), who was participating in the shoot with me. 

The down jacket is another of my winter basics. Even if I am the proud owner of a cozy camelhair coat I love, I often prefer this down jacket: more resistant, warmer, waterproof - in short, more practical. And I particularly appreciate the casualness of the piece, which allows me to partly drift away from the formal suit I’m wearing. The parka is from Frizmworks, a Korean brand I found on All Blues Co, a top-quality English shop. I love its bright orange color, which in addition to being cheerful, is very useful on Paris’ dangerous streets !  (Yes, when I’m facing cyclists or just crossing the road…). There are, alas, drawbacks to this piece: the buttons are not very resistant (I had to replace 3 or 4 of them) but most of all, the parka lacks pockets, which is problematic for a dad like me!

The suit is from Ardentes Clipei, my Parisian tailor since a few years now. Romain Biette is the first tailor I felt totally comfortable with. He is a great listener and will bend over backwards to satisfy my sartorial needs while advising and guiding me to avoid falling into one of the many pitfalls of the made-to-measure process. The suit is in a Huddersfield flannel. I chose a broad chalk-stripe fabric, making it more casual and less of a “banker-suit” vibe. The patch pockets and the "3 roll 2" buttoning are totally Ivy League inspired for me, but I kept other more European details like the two openings in the back and the darts on the front of the jacket. 

I paired this suit with a striped "fun shirt" from Jakes London, the "it-shirtmaker" of the last two years (with Buttice in Paris of course). I've been wearing fun shirts since the 90's, it's become a must-have for me.

This one has a generous cut, which is something to consider when buying and putting together your outfits. I will not detail here the story behind the fun but I will point out that this one does not have the color yellow usually found in such shirts. And thanks to this, I find this fun shirt almost serious. I'm even willing to bet that some readers won't have noticed it and will have taken it for a simple blue striped shirt!

Last but not least, I'm wearing Alden Chukka boots, bought second hand. More formal than sneakers (because yes, I sometimes wear sneakers with suits, go ahead, burn me!) but more casual and especially more comfortable than a classic Oxford.

Reader’s attire #1 Romain

Here’s our inaugural profile of one of our readers: Romain.

Text: Romain @Lastrolab

I’m wearing a Laulhère beret. I had a bit of trouble finding this model which has a 9.5 inch top diameter, which is smaller than the classic version. Even after a certain adjustment period, wearing a beret is still a bit of a challenge. You have to finely navigate between Justin Bridou and Emily in Paris (I will let you be the judge of that). A little customization here: I removed the little rivet with the brand's logo with a pair of pliers and a lot of cold blood. 

The jacket is a Barbour Solway Zipper. It is an old version called "one crest" because, at the time of its manufacture (between 1974 and 1982 if I’m not mistaken) the brand had only received one royal warrant. As a result, the label only features the Duke of Edinburgh’s coat of arms (those of the Queen and the Prince of Wales will come later). The Solway Zipper is a rather rare model that has been discontinued. It is longer than most of modern Barbour jackets and features a belt. I already had a Solway Zipper, but this one was in such good condition, with its original synthetic fur liner and belt (the latter is often missing) that I couldn't resist when I saw the listing online.

Underneath, I'm wearing a Brooks Brother blazer from the Makers line, which means it was made in the brand’s American workshop (union made, s’il vous plaît). I like it a lot because it has all the typically Ivy characteristics of American sack jackets: undarted straight cut, 3 buttons roll 2, patch pockets on the hips and breast, 2 buttons on the sleeves, semi-lined and with a center hook vent in the back. The fit is so loose that I sometimes wonder if a size down would not be better for me. It remains to be seen...

To stay warm, I chose a sleeveless shetland wool cardigan. I started buying knit vests this year, to avoid the ubiquitous Uniqlo down jacket, which is very practical but not very nice-looking. This one is a Benetton vintage made in Italy. 

I don't usually wear a tie with jeans, but I thought it would look nice with this outfit. This is a vintage Marinella regimental tie. I used to dislike striped ties, but it slowly grew on me and I now have quite a few. I like the color scheme on this one, but I realize afterwards that it might be a little wide to wear with a button-down shirt. 

The shirt, precisely, is my most recent vintage Brooks Brothers find. I have a bit of an obsession with vintage made in USA Brooks shirts. This one, although not from the makers line, is interesting because it's a so called “fun shirt”, which means it's made with different patterns, but, unlike other fun shirts, only in blue and white. 

The braided leather belt is an Atelier Particulier. I bought it new about 5 years ago. The quality is great. 

The jeans are also quite interesting because they are a vintage redline (selvedge) 501s from Levi's. This particular version dates from the 70’s and is referred to as "single stitch", due to the construction of its back pockets. It's the earliest version of the “small e” 501s. I bought it on eBay from an American seller. It had a few holes that I had Arthur (aka Superstitch) repair except two, on the left thigh, that I repaired myself the "sashiko" way.

Finally, the penny loafers are from Edward Green, the Picadilly model. I'm a bit of a fundamentalist when it comes to shoes. I know that there are several great brands out there that make beautiful things, but I admit I'm a sucker for Edward Green. These are a farewell gift from my former colleagues when I left my previous job, I can't thank them enough! They did catch the rain during this photoshoot. But as English shoes, the least they can do is tolerate a little rain!

The icing on the cake (or umbrella on the cocktail) is my Cal umbrella, which I bought during my year at Berkeley. I like it because it's big, colorful, and above all it's a souvenir!

I realize that with the exception of the beret, the belt and the loafers (and my underwear!) all my clothes are second hand. I've always loved digging for vintage clothes, and it's intensified recently with the help (because?) of online thrifting sites. But I think I've been forcing it a bit this past year. I plan to slow down in 2022, in order to buy less stuff but to support brands and people I like. I promise, if you invite me back, I'll only wear first-hand clothes!

COHÉRENCE Trench Coat - AL II

The wardrobe of legends with the genius of today

On May 19, 1942, a bomb exploded. In the midst of a World War, Europe was torn apart. This was not an ordinary bomb. A literary bomb had just been dropped by Albert Camus: The Stranger had just been published. This novel details the – insipid ? - life of the narrator, who finds nothing more exciting than to kill to feel the weight of his existence. It is undoubtedly one of the most poignant novels of the 20th century because all the subtilties of human existence are addressed. Albert Camus received a Nobel Prize of Literature in 1957, more than 10 years after the publication of this book. There is no shortage of clichés about the writer, and what has always struck us is his impeccable sense of style. Camus had everything: a cigarette in his mouth and a raincoat on his back, Camus was straight out of a Hollywood movie. 

His influence goes beyond French borders. Today, a Japanese brand draws its inspiration from snaps of great figures of yesteryear.

Let's have a closer look. 

The japanese fascination

Clothing in Japan is quite eclectic, almost an obsession. No two styles are alike. But all have in common to have a distinctive sign. 

COHÉRENCE is inspired by portraits of legendary artists who have forged History. Their slogan is "the wardrobe of legends with the genius of today". The COHÉRENCE line conveys contemporary authenticity through unique textiles elaborated in Japan with techniques exclusively developed in the land of the Rising Sun. 

Kentaro Nakagomi is the creative director of COHÉRENCE. Fascinated by the Surrealist movements, by the New Wave, the founder tends to get closer to the Greatest men in History in their field: André Breton, Miles Davis, François Truffaut...artists who have left a mark on their time and their peers.

What makes COHÉRENCE overcoats so unique is certainly their manufacture. They are all produced in Japan, in an incredibly meticulous way for ready-to-wear! Indeed, Kentaro Nakagomi visited dozens of workshops before finding a true gem in Japan specialized in the production of coats for more than 50 years and able to meet a relatively demanding specification in terms of cutting and assembly.

The level of detail that goes into each piece is a very Japanese phenomenon. The brand does not deviate from this in any way, on the contrary, they elevate it to a maxim. For example, the armhole is narrow so to facilitate movement, all their overcoats have beautiful buttons made of real horn, a lining inspired by the horizontal stripes of Jean Cocteau's shirts, not to mention the profusion of pockets. There is no “faux-leather” buckle on a COHERENCE trench coat, as you would find in most trench coats. Instead, you will find a beautiful metal buckle with a matte finish.

The fabrics are also entirely made by the brand with their Japanese collaborators. We at Les Indispensables love knitwear, this is why we particularly like the "Tweed Chevron Jersey" which reminds us of the rustic uniqueness of Tweed but with a soft, lighter feel. 

The choice to focus on tops is also not insignificant. In an interview for Beige Habilleur, the first stockist in France, the creative director explains that in ready-to-wear there are few pieces that can achieve the degree of beauty that can be found in made-to-measure...except for outwear pieces. They don't have to fit perfectly to be elegant. Small deviations will have much less impact than a suit jacket for example. This makes the Trench Coat the ideal ready-to-wear piece to complete a wardrobe that is already geared towards tailoring. But not only.

the look

Length and comfort are two adjectives that best characterize the "AL II" raincoat. The large collar protects from the wind, the length of the piece elongates the silhouette.

All in all, COHÉRENCE clothing has a reassuring feel. They reassure by the quality of the materials chosen, by the techniques used and by the attention given to details as a guideline. 

The Fitting

COHÉRENCE sent us a size S which is perfectly suited to create a "regular fit" effect. The trench coat is worn here by Manon, who, at 1m75 fits very well.

With an atypical cream color, it goes perfectly with soft colors but also more saturated and contrasted. 

Wearing a trench coat is always a challenge: either too short, or too long, or too wide...At Les Indispensables, we can say that we are conquered by this piece, which would almost deserve a museum by itself. 

At Les Indispensables, we can safely say we are impressed by this classic piece of clothing, which would deserve a museum to itself. 

Texte : Marcos E.
Photos : Thomas M.

N.E. BLAKE & Co. – Cricket jumper

N.E. Blake

Cricket Jumper

In 465 BC, two Sicilian tyrants - Gelon and Hieron - expropriated and deported the inhabitants of Syracuse. To defend themselves, the people called upon three great orators to support their cause: Empedocles of Agrigento, Corax and Tisias. The people triumphed, the art of persuasion was born. The Roman philosopher Cicero set up this technique in true oratory art and declared “eloquence as reason is the virtue of man”. 

In his oratory essay, De oratore, Cicero particularly emphasized the importance of body language, “the elegance of the body”. The personification of persuasion in History of Art is that of a young woman, crowned with flowers, pearls or gems and always dressed in white. The garment precisely. An essential piece of this puzzle: if one is a better dresser, does this person have a stronger power of persuasion? The art of persuasion seems to answer this question negatively: if one is wearing plain or whites clothes, this will not distract the audience from one’s speech, permitting them to solely focus on the spoken words.

But an array of questions can be raised in the present day. In the same vein, can one wear a workwear jacket when one is not at work? It seems quite normal to us to wear that sort of jacket on the weekend for instance. Additively, can one wear sportswear when one is not playing sports? The answer can only be positive. Proof with this cricket sweater we discovered from the English brand N.E.Blake & Co.

Let’s have a closer look. 

A cricket brand for cricketers

It was in 1926 that Nicholas "Paddy" Padwick established his brand "N.E.Blake&Co" in Minster Street in Reading, England. His goal was to offer the highest quality sportswear. Paddy was quite a sportsman himself: golf, field hockey, boxing and cricket. 

"Paddy" Padwick, neblake.com

The business flourished, even during the Blitz bombings, Paddy managed to return to the store after his military service. Upon his death, the brand was taken over by his wife Anne. When she passed away in 2017, her grandson, Henry Lloyd-Hughes took over and revitalized the brand. Being a successful young actor himself, his goal was to make this almost century-old brand, current. The gamble paid off.

When Henry took over the brand in 2019, he had access to the brands’ archives and thought it was time to resurrect its’ vintage soul. He knows something about this himself. Both a lover of sartorial art and an avid collector of vintage clothing – notably from the 1940s and 1950s – he has amassed an impressive collection during the years, "rooms full of vintage clothes" he says! Henry has said what pleases him most is to see, for instance, a Japanese teenager wearing his brand but also cricket players themselves. Making his clothes wearable on and off the field.

All of the brands’ clothes are named after great cricket sportsmen, like the "Peter May" shirt, the "Len Hutton" trousers or the "Jack Russell”. Each piece offered on the site is the embodiment of the best details of vintage pieces in existence – this is where N.E.Blake&Co thrives. An example is the "Peter May" jersey cricket shirt with a long 1950s collar we just love.

A cricket sweater for the city, the countryside or any sport

The versatility of the garment is something that is very important to us at Les Indispensables. Being able to wear clothes that are initially intended for another purpose is a richness. This sweater is a perfect example. It is woven in England from English wool and adopts a twisted pattern with a large, characteristically slit "V" collar with sky blue trim. 

The sweater is warm, the wool is soft, the style is timeless.

After having tried a size “M” which was too big, we asked Henry for a size “S” and he kindly sent us the correct sizing. We advise you to take your usual size, but for any questions you may have, the brand has a size guide on their site and are very responsive on Instagram.

This is where N.E.Blake’s strength lies: being a pure clothing brand for cricket clubs – customized jumpers are possible for them – and at the same time offering beautiful functional clothing that can be worn by everyone, every day. 

If you don't have a cricket sweater yet, you know where you can get one.

Text : Marcos E.
Photos : Thomas M.

Interview of Thom H. Boehm, knitting machine operator and Linkedin influencer

Thom H. Boehm is a circular knitting machine operator. Followed by several thousand people, he often publish articles on Linkedin both about his work and life in general. He plans to eventually write a book about his knitting experiences.

We asked him a few questions to better understand the world of circular knitting machines.

Thom H. Boehm in the middle of circular knitting machines
Photo @Thom H. Boehm

“Well, for quality, I only know from a knitter’s point of view. I know that often lighter stitches are used to save on yarn, but I much prefer to knit with a tighter stitch, and am under the impression that this will also help reduce shrinkage in the finished product. ”

— Thom H. Boehm

Can you introduce yourself in a few words?

My name is thom h. boehm, and I currently live in Truro, Nova Scotia with my wife and son who is doing his Master’s degree from our basement due to covid restrictions.

How did you fall into the world of textiles?

I got married and moved to Japan at the age of 20 years old. Once there, I picked up the occupation that most foreigners in Japan have, that is teaching of English. I have no college education, but I did have a spousal visa, so my boss in Japan made up a college degree for me and turned it into the prefectural government. I taught on that degree at the same school for almost 10 years. At the age of 30, as a family, we moved back to Canada. Since I had no college degree, factory work was the easiest work to find. I got on at the mill where I work in August of 2001 on the night-shift as a piece-work knitter. Later I apprenticed as a fixer, and now do a little bit of everything, or whatever needs to be done.

Which company do you currently work for?

I work for Stanfield’s Limited in Truro, Nova Scotia. It was founded in 1856 in Tryon, Prince Edward Island, and later moved to Nova Scotia.

Stanfield’s factory - Canada
Photo @Thom H. Boehm

What machines do you work on? What types of garments do they produce?

Depending on the day, I work on jersey, fleece, interlock, two-layer, rib, or thermal machines.  Stanfield’s produces a wide variety of products, but many of them still are undergarments or winter woolens.  We also produce a lot of fire retardant attire for oil workers, fire fighters, or anyone else who is in need of fire retardant clothing.

What are your daily tasks?

Day-to-day, I cover a lot of ground.  Lately, an average day finds me covering often over 10km in one day.  The knitting room is large, and often machines I look after are on opposite sides of the room.  I operate machines, maintain the machines, take the garbage downstairs, keep my manager appraised of the what is happening on the floor, and general house-keeping.  By far, though, this is not the end of the things that I do.  I do whatever needs to be done to keep things flowing through the room.

What is your favorite machine and why? 

My favourite machine.  That is a hard one, as most of them I like in one way or another.  Probably my favourite would be MC #62.  An old 30 inch Mayer rib machine w/lycra.  It was a terrible machine to run back when I was a piecework knitter, but it runs much better these days, and it is an attractive machine with an attractive and affable personality.  

Would you like to learn how to use flat knitting machines? (Like those of Shima Seiki for example)

I would love to learn how to use flat knitting machines, but I don’t imagine that will ever happen.  I would love to just see a Shima Seiki machine in action, so I could wrap my mind around how they work.

Do you have favorite fashion brands? Or brands you think their t-shirts and sweatshirts are really good?

The majority of my clothing, I buy from the second-hand store.  Go to the second hand store and you can see what companies are producing quality goods, as if they still look good when they are hanging at the second-hand store, then usually they are made pretty well.  For my t-shirts I often gravitate towards American Eagle, as they hold up well, and I like the cut of the t-shirts.  If I am buying something new, then lately I like Puma and have always like Diesel, but I don’t buy new clothing very often.

Men’s fashion is very attached to the notion of quality. In circular knitting, what does "good quality" mean? Is it necessarily a thicker knit? 

Well, for quality, I only know from a knitter’s point of view.  I know that often lighter stitches are used to save on yarn, but I much prefer to knit with a tighter stitch, and am under the impression that this will also help reduce shrinkage in the finished product.  But, sad to say, my knowledge is mostly limited to my small step in the larger process.  But, I like as much as possible with the limited resources that I have to produce a quality fabric free of defects.

Tubular t-shirts often get very good press. However, no article explains why a tubular t-shirt would be better than a cut and sewn t-shirt. 
What do you think about it?

Outside of my area of expertise, but I can’t imagine that there would be any difference.  I mean even with circular knitting, most of our garments are still cut and sewn.  I would be more concerned with the quality of the materials and workmanship.

Circular knitting machines
Photo @Thom H. Boehm

Monarch’s circular knitting machine
Photo @Thom H. Boehm

Camessi – MTM shirts

A shirt is certainly one of the most worn pieces in men's fashion: dressy, casual, fancy...the choices are endless. We love wearing shirts, that's why we are constantly looking for new shirt makers. So it was natural to broaden our research, and this is when we come across Camessi, an Indian...maker. Let's be honest, when you hear about "made in India", you stereotypically assume that the quality is not very good and the working conditions are not necessarily better. Yet some brands have noticed this and have made it their mission to change things. Camessi is one of those brands.

Let’s have a closer look.

A family story

Camessi is a custom made to measure shirt manufacturer based in Mumbai. The company was founded by Shanker Shroff in 2007. Today, his son Sanjiv Shroff and his two grandsons Rahul and Ameya have taken over today.

We were very curious to know more about this brand. During our first phone call with Ameya, he explained the company's philosophy to me. Camessi's goal is to offer "the best quality that one can expect from a manufacturer of custom-made shirts". For this reason, the company trains their own seamstresses (up to 70), it's even a prerequisite: they don't need to have any previous experience! This allows the brand to give them a solid foundation.

In the beginning, the founder and his family went to Italy to visit the best shirt manufacturers in the world and analyzed each style of different producers in order to take in the knowledge they had acquired and interpret it in their own way. This information and knowledge is still used today by their skilled craftsmen. Every step of the shirt making process is carefully checked by someone with experience. The margin of error that Camessi allows itself is 1mm! 

For example: Imagine a tailor working on one side of the shirt. When the thread breaks, an Italian or European shirt would take another thread and start where the other thread broke. This thread is usually cut carefully, leaving a kind of knot that is invisible to most eyes. In comparison, when this happens at Camessi, the tailor starts from scratch to deliver the promised quality. Most European tailors will not do this, as it is simply too expensive and too long.

Camessi has over 2000 fabrics in stock from the best manufacturers, including their own, the mythical Madras. The options are endless.

An OCBD shirt and a slightly special jeans shirt

For this review, we wanted to see two fabrics: an oxford and denim one. We are not disappointed! The fabrics are really impeccable. 

The OCBD is very smooth and has a beautiful sky-blue shade. It is perfect to wear in a dressed-up outfit, but it is just as suitable for more casual outfits.
For a total casual look, the denim shirt is a must. Here, rounded chest patch pockets, mother-of-pearl buttons, and a generously proportioned collar are the best answer in acquiring style and nonchalance.

You will have understood it by now...”Made in India” does not rhyme with low quality, indeed, Camessi is the epitome of this. 

Prologue Hong Kong

March 2020: first lockdown. The opportunity for me to lighten my wardrobe. An observation arose upon examination: my suits were no longer really my size. Too thin and slim for my taste, legacy of a time when I dressed (too) close to the body. This is when I started looking for a brand that could satisfy me. As often, I turn to Instagram, a great source of inspiration. I scroll through various accounts and come across one of a Hong Kong tailoring house: Prologue Hong Kong. The silhouettes are simple, intriguing and beautiful at the same time. I decide to contact the brand via the social network. As a reminder, we are in full lockdown, so the situation is quite critical in China, but Prologue is attentive: their idea is to launch Remote-Made-To-Measure. Thanks to an efficient measuring guide, I order my first two-piece suit in a blue fabric from Holland & Sherry, which is a real success. The measurements were taken by my girlfriend – many thanks to her – and perfected by the Prologue team. On arrival, the suit falls perfectly, I am completely satisfied of the cut and the quality workmanship, very clean. 

Since then, my wardrobe has grown thanks to their unbeatable offer. Here is the review of their emblematic jacket and a special pair of trousers. 

Let’s have a closer look.

An adventure born out of frustration

The Prologue team
Photo prologuehk.com

The three founders - Jerry Tong, Chris Tang and Maslow So - were frustrated when they went in search of tailoring: although they would have loved to purchase wardrobes full of Liverano e Liverano, Sartoria Panico or Corcos, such storied heritage costs a price they felt they could not justify too many of.

When friends asked them where to find accessible quality suits, they never had an answer. This is when Chris and Jerry began working with Hong Kong tailors to reinterpret the silhouettes of their favorite houses. But the tailors didn't want to adapt to the two men's tastes: they didn't have time for them.

They found a workshop in mainland China willing to learn how to cut their patterns. Little by little, the silhouette became clearer and perfected. Their suits are made from pre-existing patterns, but readjusted by hand, which is why Prologue uses the term semi-bespoke.

A jacket and pair of trousers for everyday

Blue and grey are a men’s best friends in a wardrobe. But they can quickly get the upper hand, the result of which is not being able to venture outside one’s comfort zone. 

But sometimes this pays off. Making mistakes is part of the journey in building a sustainable wardrobe.  

Prologue offers here a two-button jacket (fake three-button-roll) with wide lapels (10 cm), and slightly structured shoulders. In a fabric composed of 50% wool and 50% silk from the Marling and Evans house. This Prince of Wales patterned jacket with discreet green stripes is a real jackpot for a wardrobe. 

Prologue already had my measurements from my previous order, so it was simple to take apply them to this jacket. The jacket falls perfectly!

In a world increasingly less formal, Prologue wanted to propose new hybrid pieces that would fit into our daily lives, which are shaken by the current sanitary situation. This is why the tailoring house also proposes to discover a real gem: dress trousers - sartorial - in a beautiful denim fabric. I have to admit I was a bit reluctant at first, but Jerry was able to advise and guide me efficiently. Thanks to this, I wear it with the jacket detailed previously, visible on the pictures. Eventually, I’ve grown quite fond of these trousers because they are both dressy and casual. Dressy thanks to the dark indigo color - a deep blue - and relaxed by the denim fabric.

Quality "Made in China”

This review of Prologue is an opportunity for us to share with you a true discovery of quality made in China. Prologue offers excellent craftsmanship at a very high workmanship at an unbeatable price. 

What about customs fees for France ? Prologue ships orders via Hong Kong Post which considerably reduces customs duties: from experience, you should count about 30 euros of fees at the reception to be paid to the French Post. 

A brand that has been able to adapt

Prologue launched its website recently, Prologuehk, and has expanded its range, offering ready-to-wear or made to order pieces. Their remote-made-to-measure program should be launched in a few weeks. 

To find the jacket of this review in ready-to-wear, simply follow this link : https://shop.prologuehk.com/shop/products/prologues-signature-brown-cream-pow-check-wool-silk-jacket

Prologue is composed of an exemplary team, Jerry being of an incredible kindness and help. We at Les Indispensables Paris can only recommend that you take a plunge into their world. You can also discover their offer via Instagram, their page is a real source of inspiration!

Archivio tie E. Marinella – Napoli

Note: At our request, Marinella agreed to send us the tie that you will discover in this article.

In an increasingly less formal world, it seems incongruous to wear a tie. Over time, this accessory has gradually become an emblem of sophistication among others. It's hard to defend wearing a tie at work when all your colleagues adopt open shirt collars - collars that are often far too short and that bend inwards - a pair of jeans and a very slim-fit blazer. A minority still wear a tie, sometimes out of obligation but mostly by choice. I fall into this second category. 

If you are not familiar with E. Marinella, you will discover the essence of tie-making. For those who know, you will only be able to nod and enjoy our photos. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

A Neapolitan Italianità proudly claimed

Much has been written and said about Naples - Napule in Neapolitan dialect. The Parthenopian city is a concentrate of tailor-made art in constant turmoil. Probably because of the nearby Vesuvius, which watches over rather than threatens the city. Those who have already had the chance to travel to this city will attest to its special atmosphere. 

In Naples, the inhabitants are not Italians, but Neapolitans firstly. The dialect and the Napoletano way of life irrigate daily relations. Naples is a concentrate of culture, football and tailoring know-how. 

At 287 Via Riviera Chiaia nestles a more than century-old shop, a true Neapolitan institution: E. Marinella. Although the store is only 20m2, its influence is worldwide. 

The house offers a selection of shirts, scarves, pocket squares, scarves, sweaters, berets, shoes and especially ties. An exceptional choice. The house was founded on June 26, 1914 when Don Eugenio realized his vision of a store that would be a mirror of the most elegant, inspired by the English Savile Row. If the overused term "sprezzatura" has been analysed and misunderstood, Eugenio Marinella defends sobriety in elegance: "never wear a sky-blue shirt at night or a bright red tie" are part of his precepts. 

Thanks to an article by the novelist and journalist Matilde Serao at the beginning of the century, Marinella's house gained importance and aroused Prince Humbert of Savoy’s curiosity, who personally went to the shop to buy elegant ties for his social outings. His uncle, Emmanuelle Filiberto, Duke of Aosta, used to spend whole afternoons there. 

Manufacturing

If we have not yet had the chance to visit the Marinella workshops, the brand is present every year at the Bon Marché Paris Rive Gauche during the Christmas holidays. Maurizio Marinella travels regularly in person, accompanied by two seamstresses who make custom-made ties on the spot.
On this occasion, we were able to see how a Marinella tie is assembled in the best possible way. As an example, the structure of the tie - the seam that closes the tie along its length - is assembled by hand. This is the only way to guarantee an exceptional hand and longevity of the tie. 

A piece of fabric from the E collection. Marinella Archivio

The E. Marinella Archivio collection is a time machine. It allows you to (re)discover fabrics from the past. The opportunity to get your hands on real gems, treasures waiting to be unearthed. It is no chance the most illustrious men of the century wear them around their necks. 

The archivio brings together fabrics produced in the UK from the 1930s to the 1980s. The archive has over sixty designs in over two hundred colors that add to the house's already extensive collection. 

The archivio collection is therefore a real gift from E. Marinella, a gift to be worn without moderation proudly around the neck. 

I'm wearing a Vintage Marinella tie made from a fabric dating back to 1948. I wear it with a Prologue jacket and pants and a Camessi* shirt. The tie is a beautiful burgundy color with cream-colored medallions. It enlightens an outfit without obscuring it. 

*reviews to be discovered soon. 

Text : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.