The Anthology - Lazyman Jacket

Text: Marcos Eliades
Photos: Thomas M.

2020, what a year. Punctuated by two French lockdowns and a global pandemic of unprecedented magnitude, the past year will be remembered. 

It seemed futile to worry about anything other the well-being of others or one's health. "Eppure, si muove" would have said Galileo. Yet the world continued to work and the Skypéro (in French, contraction of “Skype” and “aperitif”) became legion to the detriment of hugs and handshakes with friends and family. For many, questions of appearance or daily dress were relegated to the background. Rightly so, you might say. How can we think about clothing when we are in the eye of the storm? Quite simply because it constitutes our body envelope, literally our second skin. The euphoria of indoor clothing during the first weeks of lockdown gradually gave way to an irresistible urge to get dressed up again. I remember how I meticulously prepared my outfits for the authorized and strictly supervised outings within a one-kilometer radius. A pair of beige chinos, black penny loafers, a white crew t-shirt, a chambray shirt and a denim jacket. Not knowing when we would be free again, I opted for outfits that filled me with joy when I composed them. Although my accessories of the moment were the alcohol solutions and home-made masks, I found a semblance of normality.  However, as in any crisis, rays of light emerge. Men's fashion brands began to mobilize to make their contribution helping caregivers. This is notably the case of the Hong Kong brand The Anthology, which created colorful cotton t-shirts to support this cause. 

Since two years, The Anthology offers clothing adapted to our urban and bucolic outings. Thus was born the Lazyman Jacket. 

Let’s have a closer look.

A suit story

The two founders, Andy Chong and Buzz Tang, are passionate about the art of tailoring. It was therefore logical they founded The Anthology by offering a bespoke suit service. 

The suits made by the duo are inspired by the traditional art of tailoring, but revisited by offering generous low-gorge lapels soft padding. The silhouette is natural, the shoulders are well constructed and are rather inspired by English than Italian craftsmanship: this gives it a more timeless look. Nonetheless, "soft tailoring" irrigates The Anthology: it is easy to wear a suit without overdressing it. In a world that is becoming less formal, it is essential to be comfortable in one's clothes above all, this does not mean being neglected. 

The Anthology pushes to the exploration of clothing, without being avant-gardist for all that. Although blue and grey are essential colors for men's wardrobe, the brand pushes men to explore English or Italian fabrics with patterns and colors that remain classic, elegant and adapted to everyday life.

Without any further ado, here is Buzz Tang, co-founder of The Anthology, let’s see what he has to say. 

How did The Anthology come to exist?
A story of two like-minded, like how many other businesses started.

Having the privilege to run The Anthology is a matter of serendipity and also “right time right place”: I met Andy, who is the other pillar of The Anthology when I was 18. We share the same goal in terms of how we perceive a brand, but also have very different perspectives. Thus, we effectively fill each other’s gaps which in turn makes the label more all-rounded. Based on his expertise in bespoke tailoring and my prior experience on Savile Row, Andy and I knew there would be an opportunity to start a concept shop that conveys the story of a modern man who carries that tasteful eclectic identity, a bricolage of the modern and the old. Thus, The Anthology was born.

Where did you use to make your suits prior to founding The Anthology?
An old tailor my dad used to visit, an open-minded senior who sadly passed away. He was a man with no boundaries. I also commissioned bespoke pieces from a few renowned Italian names whilst I was in London. In terms of ready-to-wear tailoring garments, I was spoilt by my uncle, who was a big Ralph Lauren Purple Label patron.

Where do you draw inspiration from?
Everywhere. Certainly, less on the famous menswear icons but things surrounding us, say art pieces and Pantone. I always think clothing should be relatable than to look pompous. We are not costume designers as much as I have a lot of respect for these geniuses.

What is The Anthology’s « House cut »?
Contemporary with a hint of old-school glamour. Soft, laid-back style, which is presented via the use of soft shoulders, with slightly roped and extended shoulders that retain a bit of formality. A fuller and more generous cut in consideration of practicality comfort. Without comfort, a person can hardly look at ease and confidence. 
Our house style also features extended wide shoulders, a low gorge and a specific balance of collar and lapel proportions that we’ve tweaked for almost a year, in which we see these details the most distinctive details of our design.

What do you think of modern tailoring today?
Define modern tailoring. If it’s about people wearing suits with sneakers, I’m certainly not against it. People trying to incorporate tailoring with fashion items? I am a fan. There’s only so much we can do with traditional tailoring, and it is not a bad thing to broaden our horizons, especially in 2021.

What effect do you think the pandemic is having on menswear?
Certainly a lot. People get to wear fewer suits, shifting to more casual wear pieces. The suiting market certainly deteriorates in most parts of the world but that doesn’t mean it’s a bad thing. It may lead to new opportunities. Perhaps we can get to see more interesting sport jackets and trousers combo in the coming years?

What does the future hold for The Anthology?
Evolution and reinvention. The team and I are thinking of how we can refine our products, service, aesthetics and identity every day.

‘To unlearn and learn from classics in order to make things modern’ - that has been our motto since Day 0. We will respectfully shun the traditional aesthetics and make tailoring pieces modern and adaptable in our daily lives, and will also remember sartorialism is a sweet reminiscence of the old times, but it might not be sustainable decades down the road. In order to make this sunset industry survive, we need to democratize this genre - to create original designs that are partially inspired from yesterday, but designed for today and the future.

The opposite of laziness: the Lazyman jacket

What to wear when you are home-working but the desire not to give in to indoor tracksuits becomes a personal affair? 
A jacket with a 47% wool, 38% baby llama, 5% cashmere and 10% polyamide composition is the answer. 

The color blue is undoubtedly man's best friend. Add to this an unlined and completely unstructured jacket and you have a perfect cocktail. The Lazyman jacket looks as good as a cardigan as it does a jacket.  It has three functional pockets, roll up sleeves and adjustable side tabs in the back. 

The fabric was woven in Biella, Italy, and is quite astonishingly soft. This jacket is designed to be worn every day and is perfect for different occasions. With or without a shirt, with or without a tie, the jacket is a perfect modern hybrid piece. 

I'm wearing a Vitale Barberis Canonico gray flannel sartorial pant, Alden tassel loafers and a John Smedley turtleneck. But I could very well have worn jeans and sneakers. In the end, the jacket is very versatile thanks to this textured fabric. 

The perfect compromise of not being over-dressed

Finally, the Lazyman jacket fits perfectly to our (new) everyday life as well as to the old one. It is easy to put it over a sweater and the navy-blue color is by no means dull, thanks to this particular fabric. 

A nice brand to discover, the jacket is available here: https://theanthology.net/shop/lazyman-jacket-navyteal-boucle

Check out the rest of The Anthology's website and their Instagram account: a real source of inspiration!

Crown Northampton Desert Boots Chromexcel

Note: At our request, Crown Northampton agreed to send us the Desert Boots that you will discover in this article.

Text : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.

Some menswear pieces are timeless must-haves, indispensables. Desert boots are fully part of them. We will not settle the eternal Wallabees/Desert boots debate here - although we prefer the latter model - but we will try to stress out the importance of having this model one's wardrobe. 

The available models on the market are innumerable: smooth leather, suede leather, modified leather... The English brand - more than a century old - Crown Northampton revives this historical model and offers a selection of premium leathers as well as an interesting customization. 

Here is the story of the Woodford desert boots in Chromexcel color 8 from Horween, made in England. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

Northampton or the cradle of English shoes

The Woodford family began crafting shoes back in 1908 in London. A few years later the founder Earnest Woodford, relocated production to Northampton, a major manufacturing centre of English footwear. 

Each model produced by the brand bears the name of a street adjacent to the Northampton factory. The company is also the only one to have the privilege of using the town's crest on its products: « Castello Fortior Concordia » which translates to « Peace is stronger than a fortress ».

Leather sourcing is certainly Crown Northampton's forte. A selection ranging from suede, to calfskin as well as more exotic like ostrich ! When possible, Crown Northampton collaborates with local suppliers such as the Charles F. Stead & Co Ltd. tannery. If Saville Row is where one should commission a suit, Northamptonshire is where one’s shoes must be welted. 

Each pair exiting Crown Northampton's factory is the result of a number of stages performed by experienced craftsmen. All of these stages of production are carried out in England, either in-house or with special manufacturers.

Thus, like the biggest English brands, Crown Northampton carries out its last - or « formes » in French - with the regions’ last manufacturer: Springline. This marks the beginning of the shoe manufacturing process. Then comes the manual cutting of the leather which is known as "clicking". A characteristic clicking sound can be heard when cutting the leather by rubbing on the metal pattern, which justifies this name. 
This is followed by other operations such as the sewing process, or "closing", of the different sections of the leather. An operation of "hand lasting" allows the shoe to acquire the final shape desired, the sole is then sewn. The final polishing step ensures that each shoe is polished and quality controlled before it is shipped.

Brief history of the Desert Boot

Like any piece of men's fashion, the Desert Boot model has a story behind. In 1941, the young Englishman Nathan Clark was sent to Burma and then to Egypt as an officer in the Royal Army Service Corps.
Nathan Clark* was abruptly confronted with the reality of the Egyptian desert: the footwear was not adapted to the harsh terrain. In a souk in Cairo, he got his hands on a pair of derbies in suede calfskin with crepe soles. They were comfortable and light. 
9 years later, thanks to a fruitful collaboration with engineer Bill Tuxhill, the Desert Boot was born. 
A model that is now more than 70 years old!

*His grand-father is none other than the founder of Clark’s, founded in 1825 in Somerset. 

The 4x4 of leather: Chromexcel

Crown Northampton offers the possibility to order an MTO model, i.e. "Made-to-order". This means that it is possible to order a shoe while choosing the sole. This also ensures the model is strictly manufactured for you and avoids overproduction. 

This is how we chose the Woodford Desert Boot in brown Chromexcel leather #8 from the American company Horween.  The color is reminiscent of a purplish eggplant brownish tone. A real trademark. The sole is made of crepe, the shoe has two eyelets - as is customary on the emblematic model of the 1950s - and the model is very light! 

The particularity of this model is its leather. The historical American Horween tannery in Chicago provides the raw material. Chromexcel was invented in 1905 by the company, it is a "pull-up" leather, i.e. a greasy leather. This means it has been nourished considerably by various oils, grease and waxes during the manufacturing process. Chromexcel leather has the great advantage of being water resistant. 
More than 89 different operations over a 28-day span are necessary to manufacture it, so this leather is expensive. But its beauty is unbeatable: it ensures a beautiful patina over time.
Chromexcel is a hard and resistant leather, we choose to mistreat it voluntarily or rather, not to pamper it. We wish to let it live accordingly daily! 

The desert boot can be easily integrated into a casual outfit. A pair of jeans of course, a chunky sweater and a balmacaan coat with raglan sleeves to top it off. Needless to say, this type of shoe is exclusively reserved to casual outfits. 

Northampton's heritage and English quality

To our knowledge, Crown Northampton is one of the few footwear manufacturers on the European continent to offer this type of Chromexcel "color 8" leather. The pair is sold for £275. An investment, but it will be a long-lasting one. One can even send their pair for a repair service. Yes, one can change the crepe soles.

After all, a pair made expressly for you and in the best conditions possible, worth it, is it not ?

Andersen Andersen

Note: At our request, Andersen Andersen agreed to send us the 3 sweaters that you will discover in this article.

Andersen Andersen

The world's best sailor sweaters

Texte : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.

“The sea does not boast of being salty" says a Creole proverb. The obvious things in life are not told but lived, one might say instead. 

As a city dweller by adoption but an islander by birth, the sea has a special place in my heart. One of my most distant childhood memories is of the beach at Polis, in my home country of Cyprus. The waters are crystal clear and the sand fine. The Sun warms up the sporadic pebbles on the beach, which stretches out over a calm bay. For guaranteed freshness in hot Summer days, my favorite outfit are swim trunks, a Sunspel piqué polo shirt and a seersucker cap. 

The beauty of the sea is that it is never the same depending on where you are. I discovered the Normandy coast more than ten years ago thanks to my best friend. Wild, majestic and appeasing coasts. A completely different scenery of my familiar Mediterranean! During these coastal walks, I discovered the pleasure of wearing Navy inspired clothing adapted to this harsher environment. 

A good sailor sweater can quickly become a comforting garment. The Danish brand Andersen Andersen is steadily sailing in this direction. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

A sailor’s storY

In 2009, Catherine Lundgren-Andersen and Peter Kjær-Andersen, a real-life couple, decided to create the "best sailor sweater in the world". This ambition took root after finding a sailor's sweater in a vintage store in Denmark. The piece was marked by time, but of incomparable beauty - as vintage clothes often are. 

The couple was conquered. Catherine and Peter founded Andersen Andersen in the process and set out to (re)conquer this mythical sailor sweater that has stood the test of time. Authentic marine sweaters do not have a front or back, making them easier for sailors to put them on during nightime. The Marine sweaters are made of 100% merino wool. A thick and rough wool with a tight weave that resists abrasion and humidity. Essential characteristics that can be found in the sweaters of the Danish brand.  

The merino wool of these Danish sweaters are from Uruguay and Patagonia. The wool then travels to Northern Italy where the spinning, knitting, assembling and dyeing factories are located. The sweaters are all fully-fashioned, which means that all the knitwear pieces (front, back, sleeves, collar…) are knitted in the desired shape via decreases / increases. This process avoids wasting material and reduces the number of operations.

Knitwear for every occasion

The beauty of Andersen Andersen lies in the plurality of the offer, especially in the weight of the sweaters. Thus, lighter pieces are mixed with thicker and heavier ones, more adapted to a harsh and humid winter. 

For this review, we have the opportunity to present three landmark sweaters from the collection. From the thinnest to the thickest. 

SEAMAN TURTLENECK

Gauge 7
Jersey stitch
2 ply

Made in Italy
100% wool

SAILOR TURTLENECK

Gauge 7
Half Cardigan stitch
4 ply

Made in Italy
100% wool

NAVY TURTLENECK

Gauge 5
Full Cardigan stitch
6 ply

Made in Italy
100% wool

The first sweater is the "Seaman Turtleneck", a turtleneck knitted on a 7 gauge flat knitting machine with 2 threads extra spun merino wool for a thin and durable quality. It is knitted in a jersey point: a method often used in lightweight knitwear garments, may they be t-shirts, polos or sweaters.
If you look closely picture number 1, you’ll notice the “bartak” in the sleeves. For those of you who do amateur sewing, it references a sort of zigzag point that Andersen Andersen adds to reinforce all the assembled pieces. Pieces that are assembled with linking machines and not by a “simple” sewing machine. From a technical point of view, the sweater has all the characteristics of a high-end garment. 
It is the thinnest sweater of the selection. In a radiant yellow, the turtleneck of this model is often left unrolled because it is slightly smaller than the two others. Needless to say, yellow and its variations are not difficult to wear, especially in winter. They bring the light out of a sometimes dull outfit. Consider yellow !

The second sweater is the "Sailor Turtleneck”. Knitted on a 7 gauge flat knitting machine with 4 threads extra spun merino wool. The sweater is thicker and heavier than the first one and is perfect for winter. I really like the visual aspect of Half Cardigan stitch, very “rounded”. The difference with the Full Cardigan stitch is easy to recognize: the front and back are not the same. In french, these two forms of knit fabric are said to be double stitch. They are thicker, heavier and more stable than the 1x1 rib.

Wear it for instance under a Sierra Designs down vest in a Kelly Green color, look for the article on the website. The sweater is chosen here in an ecru. At the risk of repeating oneself, white and ecru are colors that are absolutely appropriate for winter. We fully encourage them in an outfit. If you're unsure on trying on the white/ecru five-pocket pants, have a look at some of our prior articles on Crockett & Jones or Village Paris. 

The third sweater is called the "Navy Turtleneck". In a deep navy blue, this turtleneck is knitted on a 5 gauge flat knitting machine with 6 threads extra spun merino wool. It is the thickest and heaviest of the three sweaters. It is thus perfect to wear alone under a coat, for example a Balmacaan overcoat in Harris Tweed from Beams+. All sweaters have extended sleeves with a hole at the end so you can unroll them and insert your thumb, which will protect you from the cold. In terms of style and when it's not too cold, we prefer to roll up these sleeves and keep them that way. 

These three sweaters form a winning combination marrying both City and Sea. Sweaters adapted to cold temperatures that vary from one day to another, allow a greater heterogeneity and choice of clothing. My obsession for raglan sleeves is not satisfied by these sweaters but their overall quality is fully worth it. The tightly knitted wool leaves me no doubt in its beautiful aging and patina over the years. Eventually, the Andersen couple wanted to intrinsically capture the spirit of a vintage Navy sweater while modernizing and accompanying it with modern techniques based on a century-old know-how. 

A sweater with a Scandinavian heritage

A garment in 100% merino wool knitted in Italy and imagined by the descendants of the Vikings, what more could one ask for?

Howlin'

Note: At our request, Howlin‘ agreed to send us the 2 sweaters that you will discover in this article.

Howlin'

A creative knitwear brand

Text : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.

Who has never smelt untreated virgin wool-made sweater ? If you've never had the opportunity to do so, do it as soon as possible. It is as if you are sniffing a whole flock of sheep: a characteristic smell. For some, unpleasant, for others not. I fall into the second category. This perfume transports me to distant Scottish lands, an almost reassuring odor. So when the two Belgian brothers Jan & Patrick Olyslager founded their sweater brand in 2008, they thumbed their nose at conventions by naming their brand Howlin', understand 'who smells bad' in Scottish slang. A real tour de force! 

Here are two sweaters from their beautiful collection with characteristic patterns. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

A story of locality

Howlin' is a Belgian brand specialized in knitwear for 40 years. It is both creative and respectful of know-how. This is finally what we like at Howlin', the association between modernity and tradition. That's why their Shetland wool sweaters are still knitted in Scotland and Ireland. The reason is simple: these two countries are the historical cradle of this type of knitwear. They have recognized know-how in this field. Why go elsewhere? 

T-shirts and sweatshirts are made in Belgium. Whenever possible the jersey is even knitted directly in the region. The tone is set: Howlin' likes to stay local and responsible. In a globalized World where everything goes so fast, the brand bets on slowness to promote quality. 

In terms of distribution, the brand is very well represented in the world. A hundred sellers! 

Two characteristic sweaters

The first sweater is a Shetland made of 100% Scottish wool. The piece is entirely knitted and finished by hand in Scotland. And like all the high-end counterparts knitted in Scotland, the sweater is seamless. In other words, there are no seams, all parts are connected together knit to knit. 

The sweater has a slightly oversized fit, ideal for wearing a shirt underneath or a thick t-shirt. It is also brushed, which gives it this wonderful shaggy look. 

The pattern is characteristic of the Shetland Islands. The story goes that it allowed sailors to be seen from afar by their companions, when they returned from a long stay at sea. Howlin' revives this heritage and offers a sweater completely adapted to the city or bucolic life. A sweater to do everything, in short. 

The biscuit color mixed with a white and brown spiked motif render the sweater both casual and striking. It wears perfectly with raw jeans. The advantage of a toned-down color piece is that it allows a wider and more extensive color combination. Do not hesitate for example to wear beautifully colored socks on your feet!
The sweater here is a size M for a desired oversize effect. 

The second sweater is characteristic of an Irish cable-knit. These cable-knit sweaters have been flooding the clothing market for a few years now, to our great pleasure. No two cable-knit sweaters are alike: historically the patterns were chosen by the sailors’ wives and allowed them to have a family souvenir with them on their travels. Each design allowed for distinguishing sailors among them. 

The sweater is of a beautiful ecru color. As we said before, ecru is fantastic for Winter. It blends easily with everything and really makes it possible to illuminate an outfit by giving it style. 

The fit is generous. I should have probably opted for an S instead of an M, the thickness of the wool accentuating the oversize side - which is finally not at all unpleasant to the eye as well as to the wearer. The knit is thick and heavy, unlike the first sweater which has a spongy and light texture. 

It  has the same characteristics as its counterpart: knitted in 100% Scottish wool. The smell we were talking about in preamble is very subtly present, no doubt: this sweater is authentic. 

Authentic sweaters

These sweaters will you warm, thanks to them, you will spend a cozy Winter with style. What a beautiful brand and especially what beautiful designs! We greatly encourage you to visit the brand's eshop which offers pieces with characteristic Scottish and Irish patterns. Howlin' is a brand with flair, an authentic flair. 

Vanacore Napoli

Vanacore Napoli

Napolitan Shirtmaker

”All roads lead to Rome” says the famous proverb, but one needs to “see Naples and die” said Goethe. The Parthenopean city, cradle to a thousand-year civilization, is today a phantasy for menswear enthusiasts.

These past ten years, France is home to a true “italopazzia” or “italomania”. Brands lurk opportunities to offer a garment with Neapolitan details, lacking the proper know-how. “Fatto in Italia” or the illustrious “fatto a mano a Napoli” are two guarantees of quality and style. In this modern jungle, it is sometimes difficult to find new Italian brands which offer true quality with traditional values. The young shirt-maker Vanacore Napoli is one of those brands which deserve to get out of this jungle.

Story of Vanacore Napoli

Vanacore was founded in 2010 in Portici, a few feet from the Vesuvius, thanks to the Nunziata family vision. The shirt maker springs from a long line of local sartorial tradition, but has nothing to envy from its elders.

The shirts are from illustrious cloth mills such as Monti, Canclini or even Albini. Vanacore’s website is rather cursory but their social media presence – especially on Instagram – is quite on point.

Vanacore’s true values are attention to detail with nothing being left randomly: the shirts have up to 9 hand-stitched steps, that is the moment where the hand replaces a sewing machine.

A white: the epitomes of a men’s wardrobe

This young brands’ ambition is to offer the best quality for both a casual and a more business type wardrobe, may it be with cloths such as popeline, linen and even denim.

Together with the “pasta della Nonna”, traditions in Italy are no joke: Vanacore makes it possible for a young new clientele to be able to gain access to such precious know-how, without hurting one’s wallet.

Before I review the shirt, it is important I take a short detour and mention the cloth I chose: denim

Pictures from Vanacore’s atelier

Brief history of denim and the color indigo

A classic denim fabric

Denim is a twill cotton cloth which uses two distinctive colors in the yarning process. Its’ French origin – “sergé de Nîmes” – is somewhat argued upon, but its’ robustness is legendary. In the 18th century, French weavers try to reproduce a robust cloth named “jeane” – from Genova, Italy – but instead invented sergé de Nimes, thanks to a combination of wool and silk.

The very tight weave is made from a warp originally dyed blue and an unbleached or white weft. The weft threads are interlaced at a 90-degree angle with the other threads. The weave pattern, consists of three weft threads running underneath a warp thread and then a weft thread running over the warp. Shifting this pattern over four threads leads to visible diagonal lines characteristic of twill.

Indigo. The color that characterizes denim, one of the oldest colors still produced. It means "Indian" or "from India". The pigments are native to India and date back to 3300 B.C. A natural extract of indigofera tinctorial plant, indigo is obtained following a particular process of fermentation of the plant's enzymes in water - called indoxyl - which change from yellow to indigo blue when dried.

Indigo flooded the Old Continent following the Indian voyages of the Portuguese navigator Vasco de Gama in 1497. It was only in 1865 the German chemist, Adolf Von Baeyer began to search for the formula for synthesizing indigo. He succeeded in 1883, thus wide spreading its’ use around the world.

Review of the shirt

I discovered Vanacore thanks to – once again – Instagram. After a post featuring Nicola Radano, founder of Spacca Neapolis ties – wearing a blue denim shirt from the Neapolitan brand.

I was immediately won over by the deep blue shade of the shirt and especially by its generous button-down collar. I decide to reach out to the brand and I am informed that for 160 € (including shipping costs for France), it is possible to make a shirt in remote made-to-measure (see my article on Shirtonomy for the explanation). Vanacore's website only reveals the tip of the iceberg: the company offers numerous fabrics, shirt styles and a high-level of personalization.

The ordering process is very simple, as Salvatore Nunziata – one of the founders – was a big help in explaining the different stages and recommendations for the confection of the shirt. This attention to detail is what renders the experience more human and professional.

Here are the characteristics of the shirt.

• The armhole: fitted with a “mappina” – or “spalla camicia” – style shoulder, this is the one the most distinguishable Neapolitan features a shirt can have. the tailoring seam, exalted by manual stitches, allows for a unique and robust confection.

• The collar: I chose a button-down which gives the shirt a more casual vibe. The “rollino” effect is absolutely staggering: a perfect “S” silhouette.

• The yoke: the manual seam of the shoulders resolves the tension in one of the most critical points. An operation that guarantees extreme softness and robustness, this is a sign of a well handcrafted shirt.

• The cuff: these are also hand-made, with 10 stitch-points to the centimeter! A wonderful detail.

• The placket: the hand riveting of the placket represents a touch of great value of which this shirt contains.

• The buttonholes: very neatly handcrafted!

• The buttons: they are in a beautiful brown-shade of mother-of-pearl, white ones would have contrasted too thoroughly with indigo. They are sewed in a “ricamo a giglio” or “zampa di gallina” pattern, this can only be done by hand – a sign of high craftsmanship.

• The sleeve gauntlet or “travetto”: it is a reinforcement in the form of a hook stitch, at the level of the capuchin paw (a paw that starts at the wrist and generally ends in the middle of the forearm). It is executed by hand, which is almost non-existent in ready-to-wear clothing.

• The gusset: a small triangle that joins together the two parts - front and back - of the shirt, guaranteeing its sturdiness.

All these handcrafted stitches render this shirt a truly unique piece.

Regarding the fit, it is very comfortable and allows me to easily execute large and continuous movements. Vanacore considers the fact that denim might shrink a few millimeters after a first wash, so you don't end up with a shirt that is too tight and has lost its original shape.

Conclusion

The Vanacore button-down denim shirt is a unique piece of Italian and especially Neapolitan craftsmanship. This shirt won't remain immaculate for long: with successive washings - always on a delicate program and never in the tumble dryer - it will gain a wonderful patina and will thus reveal the splendor of the indigo denim fabric.

Although denim is a casual cloth by essence, nothing prevents you from wearing this shirt with a tie, the Italian way.
Finally, I would like to point out that Vanacore offers a wide range of styles as well as shirt fabrics, not all of which can be found on their website. Simply contact them - by email or via Instagram - to find out more.

I can only recommend Vanacore to anyone who wants a taste of a real Neapolitan shirt, "fatta a Napoli".

Valstar Milano

Note : we asked the brand for the garment in exchange for a full review.

Valstar Milano

Blouson suédé Valstarino

Texte : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Valstar ; Thomas M

Introduction

In 1873, the German philosopher Robert Vischer coined the term "Einfühlung" in his thesis on aesthetics. This neologism literally means "empathy", but it also covers the feeling of belonging, a sensation of "indulging in an emotion". The term was later popularized by philosopher Theodor Lipps, admired by Freud, who detailed the faculty for a human being to appreciate something only if he really projects himself with it. According to Lipps, it is imperative to really feel the object, to understand how it was shaped by the craftsman and the meaning he conveys in it. The concept of "Einfühlung" thus encompasses the possibility for a human being to feel an internal emotion and share it with his environment.

To some degree, our clothes should make us happy: if we don't feel a small flame when we wear them, they will end up in the meanders of our wardrobes.

My Valstarino jacket makes me feel this "einfühlung" when I wear it.


Let’s have a closer look.

History

Valstar was was born in Milano in 1911 and it was popularized by the biggest Hollywood stars such as actor Humphrey Bogart - notably in Casablanca in which he wears a trench-coat from the Italian brand. Valstar instantaneously rose to stardom.

At its beginnings, Valstar production was mainly dedicated to high-end rainwear. The ambition is always the same: to create the best possible clothing, in the most beautiful materials.

In 1935, a new jacket was launched: the Valstarino, literally "little Valstar". Directly inspired by the mythical A1 jacket of the U.S. Army designed in 1927, it differs from the latter in its fabrics. Fashioned from a very supple leather, velvet or lambskin, the Valstarino nevertheless retains the buttons on the front, patch pockets and cuffs. The collar and lower back are knitted wool.

The Valstarino is an essential part of Italian history and craftsmanship: so illustrious it was named in the book "Novantanove icone. Da segno a sogno", at rank 11, as one of the 99 Italian iconic objects; alongside the Fiat 500, the Vespa, the Bialetti coffee maker, to name a few! A true recognition that undoubtedly explains its success in Japan today. The jacket has meanwhile been revisited compared to its historical version of 1935, especially in terms of colors, cut and materials. The logo has also undergone a renaissance, since it is inspired by the one used to sponsor the Italian national soccer team, during the 1978 World Cup.

REVIEW

When you put on a Valstarino, you immediately feel like you belong to an inner circle. The jacket smells fantastic, like a leather jacket should.

Extremely comfortable to wear, it is slim and short but is meant to be worn this way. It is therefore preferable to try it on before any purchase is made.

This jacket is worthy of the biggest “bad boys” in the film industry - McQueen, Brando - but we wanted to get as far away from this image as possible by showcasing it in a very simple outfit.

I combined it here with my Shetland "Kelly green" Laurence J. Smith sweater, an off-white corduroy trouser from Uniqlo, a pair of cream socks and my Alden "color 8 cordovan" penny loafers 986. A winning combo.

I have to be honest, I was reluctant in owning a leather jacket at first, precisely because of the image it may – falsely – convey. The Valstarino allows for a smooth transitioning in style: if like me, you're not used to wearing leather, simplicity is the key word.

I particularly like the design and the cut, which gives the blouson a certain "military-urban" look. It's a real pleasure to fasten and unfasten the buttons of this jacket: the visual effect will not be the same depending on whether the jacket is completely unbuttoned, buttoned with two or three buttons. I also easily wear my jacket in tailoring, thus breaking the formal look the outfit might express: I’d wear a high-waisted pair of flannel trousers, a beautiful piece of knitwear and my Alden penny loafers.

The Valstarino is like a good buddy you can count on, it will never disappoint you.

A soft suede jacket requires minimal maintenance. Here are our tips:

• Waterproof the jacket with a waterproofing spray (Saphir Invulner - Gold Medal for example)

• Store your jacket on a hanger, preferably away from direct sunlight so as not to damage the suede.

• If your suede jacket got stained, don't panic, the following miracle product is the solution: the "Super Gommadin" always from Saphir Médaille d'Or.

• It is also advisable to take your jacket to a leather master-cleaner. Caring for your blouson will depend on how often you wear it.

Maybe the "star" in Valstar is not such a coincidence after all.

For The Discerning Few

Interview with the two co-founders of For The Discerning Few, Virgile Mercier and Pierre-Antoine Levy.

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Can you introduce yourself?

We are two thirty-something year olds, friends for about twenty years, and we both have about ten years of experience in the industry in different positions.

For those who don't know For The Discerning Few, what is it? When was it created? For what purpose?

FTDF is a blog that we created in 2010, when we were students and passionate about menswear. The name was inspired by what was once a statement by Edward Green: "The finest shoes in England for the discerning few". It is not about being elitist or excluding anyone, but simply about recognizing that the majority of people don't pay much attention to the subject we deal with.

In creating this blog, our intention was mainly to showcase relevant products and people while building a small network. Undoubtedly, offering interviews with industry professionals allowed FTDF to quickly distinguish itself. At the time, professionals’ point of view was scarcely expressed on blogs and forums.

Initially, tailoring was the blogs’ main theme, but we quickly broadened the subject by evoking the other pillars of the men's wardrobe: military clothing, workwear and sportswear.

Can you elaborate on your experiences in fashion? Did FTDF make things easier?

Virgile: Personally, after a few years working in auditing, I participated in developing the wholesale activity of several Italian brands. After that, I went to London to finalize a diploma at the London College of Fashion, before working at Trunk Clothiers and then for the French bootmaker Corthay. Upon my return to France, I first took over Heschung’s flagship store before becoming the brand's retail manager. I then left menswear for a while to become head of European retail coordination for Chaumet.
The experience of the blog has been useful in that it has allowed me to acquire skills and above all to get to know the actors in the industry.

PAL: In ten years, I have worked at all levels of the supply chain. I started out in retail, then moved on to wholesale. I then went on to do marketing and product development and production management.
FTDF had a positive impact at the beginning of my career but in the last few years it has not been a determining factor. On the other hand, I regularly use some of the knowledge I have gained through blogging directly or indirectly.

Why did you stop the blog when visits and awareness were growing?

It's always difficult to remember precisely the state of mind that we were in several years ago, but stopping the blog was the result of a combination of things.

What we can say is that there was a certain wear and tear and a willingness to focus on our respective careers. So we had to make choices because producing quality content takes time and we didn't have the ambition to be professional bloggers.

Indeed, the direct monetization means available at the time did not appeal to us. It's always the same thing, developing a relationship of trust with an audience and then selling access to others. Quickly, we risk starting to talk about things we would never spontaneously have talked about. This can turn sour very quickly. Originally, the Internet was supposed to provide more transparency and freedom traditional media did not have. But if we now look at influencers, it's hard to say that the promise has been kept.

Another option for monetization is to develop your products and try to sell them to your audience. This is what BonneGueule has done successfully and is undoubtedly a more honest approach. But it's much riskier, especially with a high price positioning. Moreover, even with this more virtuous model, we see catastrophes that can be explained by the fact that people lack experience, professionalism or are, in some cases, simply crooks.

In any case, at the time, we considered it wiser to continue our professional development by putting FTDF on hold without officially bowing out.

A corollary to the previous question: why did you decide to relaunch it? Do you have a clear objective? Is "blog" a fitting description?

The name "blog" is not demeaning in our opinion. As far as our objectives, they are quite similar to the ones we had initially. They are to inform and entertain.

To inform by highlighting interesting products and people in the industry, mostly ignored by traditional media, in order to help our readers better read the market and make better choices as consumers.

Indeed, for a consumer, making the right choice, if not the best choice, remains the number one issue. The more the products on offer, the more likely they are to make a mistake and be disappointed because it requires more information, which takes time. It is therefore good to be able to rely on suggestions from knowledgeable people who can help you discover certain things.

Moreover, it is also a matter of distraction because even if we wish to treat it with a certain rigor, the subject we are dealing with is not an exceptionally serious one.

In principle, with the experience we have gained over the last five years, we should be able to produce good quality content.

Are you going to remake photos of "looks"?

Most likely not. Beyond the fact that it is not something we like, we doubt that this type of content will have any added value with regard to what is already available at the moment. Indeed, if people still need sources of inspiration, they can go to Instagram and satisfy this need.

This is not how we want to (re)build our legitimacy on. We do not wish to write on explaining how to wear this or that piece. We can eventually suggest or, if we are asked, advise, but we think it is good for people to find their own way.

What are your favorite brands? Why do you like them?

Virgile: In regards to clothing, I particularly appreciate vintage pieces, especially pieces with sleeves like coats or jackets. More generally, I must say that there are always interesting pieces at Uniqlo; a customer looking for casualwear will generally find something interesting as the collections are well done. The brands Camoshita and Gitman Vintage also match my style even if we could spend hours arguing about the quality/price ratio. For shoes, my favorite brand has been Crockett & Jones for more than 10 years and it's not going to change anytime soon.

PAL: There are a lot of brands that still do good things but I don't have a particular attachment to any of them. What I'm interested in is the product, and when I choose it, whether it's for myself or to advise someone, the questions I ask myself are always the same. What am I looking for? For what circumstances? What budget? New or not? Only then can I decide which brands to consider.
As soon as we stay in the classic realm, it is easier to be certain about the relevance of a brand for shoes than for clothes. Indeed, established shoe brands have yielded much less to the temptation of diversification than clothing brands. It is therefore easier to remain loyal to a footwear brand as long as it does not constantly change its models.
On the other hand, for commercial reasons, most clothing brands tend to become generalists, which means that they are unfortunately no longer specialists in anything. One thus finds oneself with many products of which one could make the economy.

What about the so-called Luxury brands?

This is a complex subject that should be dealt with extensively. If we think about the brands that belong to the major French luxury groups, there are positives and negatives, but it all depends on what we're talking about.

If we only consider the product by putting ourselves in the consumers’ shoes who is not looking for status, we can probably stop debating their relevance fairly quickly. That said, the informed consumer is not or no longer their target in most cases. It is not in him or her that they wish to arouse desire.

Moreover, if we consider what these brands bring beyond the products they offer for sale, there are positive aspects that impact the entire market and consumers at different levels.
Without going into detail, these brands play a role, for example, in the preservation and transmission of certain know-how, particularly because they have tended to integrate their production to a greater extent in recent years. The innovations that result from the complex demands that they submit to their suppliers generally benefit the entire market. The same is true for the best practices that they are able to impose on suppliers, and as such they will play an important role with regard to environmental responsibility. They also set the standards for customer service, etc. In short, because of the size of their operation, they can change a whole sector.

What are your favorite menswear blogs? Blog in the broadest sense : a website, Instagram account…

Die Workwear by Derek Guy is very good. Blamo! of Jeremy Kirkland’s podcast is often interesting too. Just like HandCut Radio by Aleks Cvetkovic.
There are probably still a lot of people who do a good job but that we are not able to name.

From your point of view, how has menswear evolved since the launch of FTDF ? (in the blogosphere, on the internet in general)

FTDF was launched during the #menswear period. Thus, following the financial crisis, men's fashion refocused on its fundamentals and therefore on tailoring. The Ivy league and preppy styles were also predominant during this period. Next to that, the heritage/workwear style was also very strong. All this was in line with the "buy less, buy better" rhetoric resulting from the crisis in vogue again today. There was a renewed interest in craftsmanship, etc. This trend lasted a few years before running out of steam, the pre-crisis casualization movement took over again and the last few years have clearly been dominated by sportswear in the broad sense and to a lesser extent technical/outdoor clothing. More attention is being paid to textures and consistency of color palettes. Exuberance has been abandoned in favor of more subtlety.

In addition, we see that vintage is about to explode and becoming more democratic, especially among young people who consume differently and for whom it is now natural to resell business to finance new ones. This seems to be a good thing.

Paradoxically, even if there is a certain uniformity because of the internet, it seems that people have more personal style today than ten years ago and they are more comfortable with the fact that it can evolve over time.

Has everything already been said on the subject?

A lot has already been said, so one would think so, but it is probably wrong. If we restrict ourselves to a very small perimeter, we may indeed quickly have the feeling of going in circles. But if we take a step back, it appears that menswear is a dynamic and multidimensional subject that can be dealt with by looking backwards as well as looking forwards. We are far from having reached our destination.

Do you think written blogs still have a future? Do you plan to open a YouTube channel?

Traditional blogs are probably less in vogue than they used to be, but as long as the content is of quality and is properly relayed on social networks, it seems possible to find an audience.
The creation of a YouTube channel is not one of our projects at the moment. However, we do not exclude it and we will undoubtedly explore other media such as podcasting, which seems to lend itself well to what we want to do.

Finally, a more open question, would you have a book, a movie, an artist...to advise us?

Virgile: Nothing in regards to the subject at hand: Al Green, his entire discography, which I am currently (re)listening to in good conditions, being a Hifi enthusiast.

PAL: Related to the subject, How should we dress, by Adolf Loos for his criticism of ornaments. Also Modes and Men by Farid Chenoune if you manage to get your hands on it.

Merz b. Schwanen

Note : we asked the brand for the two garments in exchange for a full review.

Merz b. Schwanen

Made in Germany

Texte : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Merz b Schwanen ; Thomas M.  

20. That is the number of white t-shirts I own in my closet. All meticulously identical: heavy-weight cotton, regular cut and tubular. An obsession born after having watched “American Psycho” where the protagonist, Patrick Bateman, has one of the tidiest closets I’ve ever seen.

The white tee is the corner-stone of a man’s wardrobe. One can wear it all year-round, maybe it be plainly or under a sweater, the combinations are infinite. The search of a “perfect white t-shirt” is a challenging quest, one we have embarked on.

We were looking for tubular t-shirts – with no side seems – made in Europe. The German brand Merz b. Schwanen has stepped up and accepted this challenge, a brand known for its undeniable quality since 1911.

History of Merz b. Schwanen

The Swan brand was founded in 1911 by Balthasar Merz in the Swabian Alps, a mountain range in the Southwest of Germany.

It was not until 2011 that the brand was reborn form its ashes thanks to buyers Gitta and Peter Plotniki. The couple had bought an old henley on a Berlin flea market a while back, it was tubular and had triangular tips at the armpits. They eventually found out it was a rare piece dating from 1911!

Le henley en question

The 1911 henley

The couple was increasingly curious about this henley and retraced its history back to Rudolf Loder, the last textile manufacturer to own the famous « loop-wheel » machines.

Today, Merz b. Schwanen is the only European manufacturer to own so-called TsuriAmi-Ki machines. As explained in our article dedicated to these machines, "tsuri" means « hanging », "ami" « knit » and "ki" « machine ». Indeed, these machines have the particularity of being “suspended”. They are usually hung on wooden beams and knit what resemble large tubular socks. These machines are highly sought after today, other machines used today cannot reach the level of quality obtained by TsuriAmi-Ki machines.

Les fameuses machines « TsuriAmi-Ki »
Famous “TsuriAmi-Ki machines”

REVIEW

For this article we tested two t-shirts from the 215 range, made in Germany on the loopwheel machines mentioned above. The first one is off-white and the second is indigo dyed.

Why an ecru t-shirt you may ask? To honor the t-shirts’ roots, initially an undergarment. This natural color adds real versatility worn alone, under a shirt – buttoned or unbuttoned. It’s a two-yarn, 7,8 Oz weight (200 grams) and made of a 100% organic cotton. A true masterpiece to wear, extremely comfortable and comforting. 

The “215” model has a longer cut than other T-shirts we may usually wear – as it mimics a 1960s cut. We should point out the garment does shrink a few centimeters when washed; nevertheless, we advise you to opt for your usual size. Moreover, Merz b. Schwanen has developed a very comprehensive guide for washing its products. The brand has also developed a special non-aggressive detergent to wash clothes in complete serenity.

“Aujourd’hui, Merz b. Schwanen est le seul fabricant européen à posséder des machines dites TsuriAmi-Ki.

Today, Merz b. Schwanen is the only European manufacturer to own so-called TsuriAmi-Ki machines. ”

A splash of indigo

There are many garments dyed with indigo. Tubular t-shirts, much less. Merz b. Schwanen has teamed up with Blue Print Amsterdam to make this dream a reality. This creative design studio, obsessed with denim and indigo, was created in the Netherlands in 2006 by Celia Geraedts. The Studio was born after its’ founder had returned from a trip to Japan where she discovered the ancient craft of natural indigo-dyeing. A prestigious know-how that allowed Blue Print Amsterdam to collaborate with Levi’s Red Tab, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Levi’s Made & Crafted, Frans Boone Store or Asahi, a Japanese sneakers brand with vulcanized soles.

The indigo-dyed t-shirt is a real marvel to glance at. Once worn, we feel part of a century-old craft, a real honor. We had never worn one before, the t-shirt has a rougher touch than its ecru counterpart but remains absolutely pleasant to wear. Indigo t-shirts irrigate the Japanese market, making them much harder to find in Europe, even more so made in Europe and tubular!

Fun fact, indigo is actually first green, when it comes out of the dyeing pot. After that, it turns to the deep indigo. The indigo color is made from the leaves of the Indigofera suffruticosa. The highest quality you can use to treat these textiles.

It has to be noted, the t-shirt will achieve a beautiful patina after successive washes, like a good old pair of jeans.

This indigo t-shirt can become your go-to t-shirt: it is extremely simple to integrate to your wardrobe rotation and will give a beautiful look to your outfits: «a splash of color». 

Futhemore the brand offers countless designs and fits. A detailed grid makes it possible for anyone to find what they are looking for.

View fullsize

Sometimes, one does not need to state the obvious. Merz b. Schwanen’s products fall into this category.

Crockett & Jones - Harvard cordovan penny loafers

Note : we asked the brand for a discount in exchange for a full review.

Crockett & Jones

Harvard cordovan penny loafers

“One of a pair of coverings for your feet, usually made of a strong material such as leather, with a thick leather or plastic sole and usually a heel". This is how the Cambridge Dictionary defines the word "shoe". There is no equivalent of the French word “soulier” in the English language, perhaps the expression “dress shoe” might convey best the sens of this fine word. “Soulier” – now scarcely used – first appeared in the French language in the 13th century. Over the centuries, the term semantically found its way into everyday expressions for instance, "être dans ses petits souliers" means "to be uncomfortable or find oneself in an embarrassing situation"; " mettre son pied dans les souliers de tout le monde " refers to the fact of interfering in everyone's business. Also, "n’avoir pas de souliers" is the symbol of a state of complete destitution; finally, "mourir dans ses souliers" is the result of a sudden death. The term "souliers” seems to be intimately linked to the moods and habits of a society, as if to describe it fundamentally. I remember the first time I preferred to use the word "souliers" for a "pair of shoes". It was 5 years ago, my father offered me my first pair of Crockett & Jones. A brogue derby in brown grained leather and a rubber sole. The "Pembroke" model, for connoisseurs. Year after year, my collection grew and so did my ultimate desire: to acquire a pair in cordovan leather, the famous "cordovan shell". A leather from the horse's hindquarters that is less than 0.5 m2 wide. Then I discovered the "Harvard" model in cordovan from Crockett & Jones, a completely “Ivy”-looking soulier. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

Crockett & Jones, Northampton and Paris: a winning trio

James Crockett and Charles Jones founded Crockett & Jones in 1879 in Northampton, the cradle of English bootmaking. However, it was not until 1998 that the first French boutique - the second in the world after Jermyn Street in London - opened its doors in Paris, at 14 Rue Chauveau-Lagarde, a stone's throw from the Madeleine. The 160m2 store displayed the double "Hand Grade" and "Main Line" collection.

Thomas and I meet up at the Madeleine store, on a beautiful Autumn day. A muffled atmosphere transpires as soon as we open the door, we understand we are entering a "club". The dark brown leather armchairs and sofas echo the beautiful woodwork transpiring an authentic British store from the past. Shoes are everywhere. Icing on the cake, there really is something for everyone: Oxfords, derbies, moccasins with monk-straps, boots, tassel loafers, penny loafers and even slippers. Crockett & Jones embodies this Europeanized "British phlegm": the house even dresses James Bond and his French equivalent, OSS 117 !

The “Harvard" penny loafer: cordovan at your feet

I walk to the back of the store where the coveted model is displayed: the "Harvard" penny loafer in Cordovan leather. Having already a pair of penny loafers from Crockett & Jones - the "Boston" model in grained brown leather - I ask to try on the same size, 6.5 UK. These two moccasins have an identical "last" - the shape of the tip of the shoe - the 314. A rounder shape than its 341 or 375 counterparts for example.

The cordovan used by Crockett & Jones is from the American Horween Tannery, founded in 1905 in Chicago. Very few tanneries in the world produce cordovan - etymologically, "cordovan" comes from the Andalusian city "Cordoba", the first place of manufacture of this horse leather already in the sixteenth century - Horween is undoubtedly best known for its dark purple-brown beautiful cordovan color.

The Harvard penny loafer is of Goodyear-welt construction, has a leather sole and an unlined interior. The pair is remarkably comfortable from the very first try, like indoor slippers! No future blisters will ruin my feet and that is an important point to consider. Note however that Cordovan leather will only loosen up a little, so it is crucial to feel comfortable from the start.

I wear penny loafers quite frequently, I don't think they are exclusively reserved for formal wear. That is why I chose an outfit with a pair of white jeans, cream socks, an ecru turtleneck and a Teba jacket. The jeans and socks are from Uniqlo, the ecru sweater from Danish brand Andersen Andersen - teaser - and the Prince of Wales Teba jacket from Justo Gimeno through Beige Habilleur. With an outfit like this one, I wanted to try on subtle degrees of white. Also, when one wishes to wear a white top and bottom, one just has to choose two different shades of white, hence avoiding the "full-white outfit".

The dark brownish Cordovan leather color - sometimes tending towards purple - makes it possible to effortlessly combine this type of shoe in any outfit. Cordovan is a rare and therefore expensive leather. A pair like this one will thus be "an investment piece". I simply advise you to try them on before purchase to see how they feel on your feet. The “Harvard” could easily be the quintessential cordovan penny loafers one has been seeking all along.

My personal experience leads me to say that cordovan “souliers” have no equivalent. Eventually, I prefer to use the word "souliers" rather than simply “shoes" when describing beautiful, well-made pieces that last over time. Harvard penny loafers fall into these categories.

After all, doesn’t James Bonds’ footwear deserve to be called “souliers” ?

My routine for caring cordovan shoes – or “souliers”

Cordovan shoes are sacred to some...Much has been written and said about this beautiful horsehide leather.

My routine revolves around 3 steps:

• I start by brushing the shoes, removing dirt and dust. A genuine horsehair brush is preferable. I usually repeat this step continuously and stop here as cordovan leather does not need much maintenance: regular brushing is enough to maintain it effectively. However, always use shoetrees inside your shoes to guarantee their shape and longevity.

• I only apply the Cordovan Special Saphire Cream very rarely and very sparingly. Otherwise, to make the pair shine, here is a little trick: I use old nylon tights and I rub the whole pair following a circular movement.

• To remove small scratches that might appear, I use a somewhat shamanic instrument: the famous deer bone. One simply has to rub the bone on the surfaces to be treated or roll it on the front of the shoe. I find it effective but you can of course do without it, no doubt that this device contributes in the whole “Cordovan folklore”. For such an accessory, consider 20 to 30 Euros. Mine is from the Scandinavian eshop with the unpronounceable name: Skoaktiebolaget.

If you notice the appearance of a whitish substance after a few wears, don't worry! It is a part of the liquor that breathes out of the leather during the natural flexing of the shoe and its wear. This substance can be easily cleaned with a dry or damp cloth, then brushed: nothing more!

However, I advise you not to wear your shoes in wet or rainy weather, even though the leather is very resistant. Cordovan leather acquires a beautiful patina over time, just let it do its job.

Yarmouth Oilskins

Note: At our request, Yarmouth Oilskins agreed to send us the 2 pieces that you will discover in this article.

Yarmouth Oilskins

Workwear made in England

I remember the first time my eyes landed on a Yarmouth Oilskins label. It was in a thrift store. The second time was in Douglas Gunn's excellent book - Vintage Menswear - in which rare pieces from the store's personal collection were displayed, including a yellow Yarmouth fisherman's parka. The third time, a menswear designer friend told me about it during a conversation we had about CC41. My curiosity had been aroused, the brand appealed to me aesthetically. After some research on Instagram, I discovered the brand still exists and is well developed in Japan ; it is distributed under the name of Yarmo and mainly focuses on workwear. Today a major aspect in menswear Yarmouth had been keen on displaying for years now.

Let’s have a closer look.

HISTORY

On February 1st 1898, Johnson and Sons, as it was called, became a limited company. Three days later, four members of the company joined with other local businessmen to form Yarmouth Stores Ltd. 

The company opened stores in ports throughout the United Kingdom and before World War II broke, employed over 1,200 people; the majority of whom were machinists making overalls, uniforms, blouses and other work clothes. 

At the height of the herring fishing industry, Yarmouth stores were open until 11:00 p.m., when young Scottish girls arrived to equip themselves for the arduous task of sorting, gutting and packing fish. Oilcloth skirts, aprons and boots were a must. Between the 1930s and 1950s, Yarmouth stores went through a difficult period. The fishing industry declined dramatically throughout the World Wars. The Wars resulted in the closure of many of the brand's stores, which never reopened.

In the 1960s, natural gas was discovered off the coast of Norfolk and a new industry developed rapidly. Yarmouth Stores responded quickly by providing Great Yarmouth's ships and crews with functional clothing, which it still does today.

At the dawn of the 21st century, the family-owned business responded to a changing marketplace while remaining true to its heritage. The twenty machinists at the plant cover all aspects of functional apparel production, allowing the brand to be "sold throughout the world".

We are pleased to present two pieces of the Yarmouth Oilskins wardrobe: a work jacket and a pair of ecru work trousers. 

REVIEW

The driver jacket bus became popular in the 1930s. It is a short jacket, designed to be worn with matching trousers. Yarmouth revisits this heritage by offering it with a shirt collar, a shorter cut at the waist, square silhouette and a Corozo fish-eye button closure from Courtney & Co, a very good English button-maker

The jacket has generous chest flap pockets. At the shoulders, two deep pleats for easy movement complete the look. Made from 100% unlined cotton twill*, the jacket is made in Great Yarmouth, Great Britain. 

*The brand is transparent on the matter, the fabric is not woven in England but the finishing stages are

The English jacket is more fitted than its French counterpart – as seen everywhere in the streets in Paris and around the world – but remains perfect for Fall layering. The fabric is very durable but not rough, as Yarmouth washes all their jackets making them comfortable to wear. 

As for the ecru trousers, they are one of the many "work suits" made by Yarmouth stores. Each trade had a specific suit adapted to its needs. The chef's suit, steward's suit and painter's suit are all featured in the 1905 Yarmouth Stores catalog. These trousers have a straight casual cut with deep double pleats at the top. They feature a corozo button fly, wide belt loops, and two deep front and back pockets. All of which is of course made in Great Britain. 

Let's say it once and for all: white trousers go with everything. Period. Some people are reluctant to wear them in the rain, which is quite understandable. Fortunately, nowadays we have washing machine and extreme stain removers!

These trousers are high-waisted, which is very pleasant and comfortable to wear. The cotton is also worth the detour: beautiful and sturdy !

This is the look we’d combine these trousers and jacket. A Heimat wool turtleneck sweater and a pair Clark's Desert boots with orange over-the calf wool socks. 

This outfit is certainly one of the most workwear we have done so far, but it has the merit of highlighting beautiful materials and comfortable pieces. 

Yarmouth Oilskins is a brand that deserves to be more widely known in France, some pieces are simple but ingenious at the same time. In an industry consistently reaching for technicality, Yarmouth Oilskins chooses to highlight certain materials from the past that are worth rediscovering today. 

Heimat - Turtleneck Review

Texte : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.

The German word Heimat is one of those words that loses it's real meaning once translated. Even in German it is difficult to put its meaning into words.
Heimat evokes the feeling of a homeland, a familiar place, a feeling of belonging or well-being in short comforting elements.

Why does one chose to wear a brand of clothing rather than another? I frequently ask myself that question. I think that one element of the answer would be to first consider the garment intrinsically, its functionality and its design.

Then comes the history of the brand in question. When I wrote about the feeling of Einfuhlung in my Valstar piece, it was clear that my quest for my sense of clothing was taking root.

The German brand Heimat manages to transpose this feeling into its sailor inspired knitwear. Hats, Scarfs but especially Sweaters, here is our take on their now legendary "U Boat" Turtleneck in Forest Green.

Let’s have a closer look.

A story about threads

Sometimes words are better than a well-drawn picture. This is why we interviewed Christian Hofmann, the founder of Heimat.

How and when did Heimat come to exist?

Heimat was started in 2016 after an 11-year career at Ralph Lauren where my last position held was Director of Merchandising Europe for Polo and RRL.

My whole life I wanted to start my own fashion brand. Do things the way I want them to be done and put my stamp on a creative project.

The Word Heimat is a German phrase with no translation. Heimat is a place where you feel the most comfortable, a place that evokes a sense of belonging or security. Sometimes Heimat can be just the feeling that's triggered by a smell or moment of calm you get whilst you do what you love doing. For example, the feeling a surfer has when he in the ocean or a mountaineer when he reaches the peak. The aim of our clothes is to trigger that same Heimat feeling. We want people to feel safe and secure in our garments and feel at home wherever they might be going.

Where do you draw your inspiration from?

Our clothes are universal but we are proud of the German heritage and craftmanship. Germany is known for high-level engineering and great quality all over the world and that’s what Heimat products are about.

I love things that are simple and made for a purpose and are stripped of any unnecessary design features. Hence why a lot of inspirations come from traditional workwear or military garments.

My main inspirations are the outdoors and lifestyle sports like surfing, hiking, or just riding your motorbike but in the end anything

What do you find in a knitwear garment you don't find elsewhere?

We use the best wool which pays back in the quality of our products. You can wear our sweaters or hats for years and the wool will not pill or rip, which is an advantage against other traditionally used materials.

The fit is tailored to the heavy knitting. It will fit tight to the body when you first put it on but after a couple of wear's it softens up and perfectly adjusts to your body shape, similar to a fresh pair of jeans.

Have a look at the perfect finishing details of our garments, the cuffs, hem, or the crown of our hats, which ensures it does not stick up on your head.

Due to our supply chain we are a very sustainable business. The little carbon footprint we create is off set with CO2 projects in Brazil and Africa. We are a small team and our suppliers and B2B clients are partners/friends not just customers, if they do well we do well. We want to have fun and feel positive about what we are doing.

What is the next step for Heimat ?

Just recently we added some beautiful new socks (Die Wandersocke) made of the same virgin wool as our Sweaters. We have some great new items in the pipeline and we’ve worked on some fantastic quality merino which really will complement our assortment. We don't want to keep adding categories unless we feel it is right for the brand and is in line with our ethos.

Thanks Christian!

A turtleneck to cope with cold weather and remain stylish

Every winter, I go in search of the perfect sweater. Every winter, I come to the same conclusion: there is a perfect sweater only for a given situation. I discovered Heimat a year ago, through an Instagram post by Beige Habilleur. I had never really seen or touched a turtleneck knitted this intricate way*, tight and rugged.

The turtleneck – or rollneck for our fellow English readers – is not for everyone. Or rather, there's a turtleneck for every neck. Take Heimat's: it is hand finished, rolls up and unrolls efficiently to the desired height. If it is too cold: unroll it. If it is warmer: roll it up. Same goes for the cuffs. I was conquered by this versatility right away.

The sweater is made in Germany. The sleeves and collar are attached by hand. Made of 100% virgin wool, the sweater is heavy. Nevertheless, it is advisable for you to choose your usual size, knowing the knitting will loosen a bit and make for a perfect fit along wears. A sweater that lives!

A turtleneck that makes me – fittingly – think of the submariners worn by American GIs. Heimat's strength is to offer a classic men's wardrobe while adapting the fit and offering different colors. This model is available in blue, yellow, ecru, black or orange.

This forest green beautifully illuminates an outfit. A sweater that I have been able to wear in the city as well as in the countryside, fitting perfectly in both habitats.

We recommend wearing this sweater with chromexcel chukka boots, fitted here – a Crown Northampton model, review coming soon – a selvedge pair of jeans from Superstitch and a reversible versatile overcoat like the one offered by L'Impermeabile and available at The Coolest Man You Know.

A great classic

Eventually, Heimat offers a wardrobe staple every man should own. One every man should own and care for. Robust and simple at the same time, the Heimat U-boat turtleneck will certainly last me a lifetime and make me feel at home every time I wear it.

*mostly with half cardigan stitch, in french we call it “côtes perlées”