Drake's MTO shirts

Note: At our request, Drake's agreed that we share our experience with their “MTO” program in exchange for the shirts that you will discover in this article.

It has become an unmissable event. Last April, Drake's was in Paris again for their 3-day pop-up and we were invited to join them to discover the new Spring/Summer collection. Always so colorful and with taste, we especially wanted to try the range of “MTO” shirts – or “Made To Order”.

Here is our experience.

Measurements

We were welcomed and taken great care of by the wonderful Faye, a trained tailor who notably trained at Edward Sexton in Savile Row, what an introduction! Not only were we in good hands, but we were also guided by her expert eye.

To begin, Faye measured my collar measurement to determine my shirt size. It was a 14.5 for me. I then put on a template shirt that uses the standard Drake’s sizing. The shirt is cut from a blue oxford cotton with a button-down collar, a style I am very fond of. By the way, although the brand is British, measurements are taken in centimeters and not inches, by tradition! For the record, at Cifonelli it is the opposite, although being a French institution the measurements are taken in inches. 

Having put on the sample shirt, one observation is immediately obvious: the shoulders are perfect but the total length of the shirt as well as the sleeves are too long...a problem I encounter again and again in ready-to-wear! This is where the usefulness of the “MTO” offer comes into play. It is then possible to shorten the total length as well as the sleeves. Please note that the fabrics are pre-washed to prevent excessive shrinkage, so the template you try will immediately have the right measurements. A good point when you know that you sometimes have to add more cloth to prevent shrinkage (a good centimeter in general), headaches are thus avoided!   The measurements were finally taken quite quickly, let's move on to the style of the shirt.

The style of the shirt

I love button-down collar shirts. My wardrobe is full of them in all colors, blue, pink, yellow, green...all in oxford. I wanted a shirt with this type of collar but in a more formal material. So I opted for the beautiful white poplin from Drake’s with the internal reference “C2117.09”. A classic! The collar is beautiful with a well-designed “rollino” (meaning, the way the collar points shape an “S”). Button-down collar shirts do not mean “no tie” and white color shirts do not mean “ wear a suit”. Do you see where I'm going with this? This type of shirt is, for me, all-purpose.

Faye then shows me the different possible options for the finished shirt. It is thus possible to choose from many options, for instance, the presence or not of a chest pocket (or two!), the style of the cuffs, the back pleats - on the sides or in the middle - and finally the collar. For this shirt, I chose a chest pocket, rounded cuffs and no back pleats. I always prefer to have a cleaner back, which I find more comforatble, none of my shirts have pleats - it's a question of taste first and comfort second.

As for the collars, there are different types and as mentioned above, I chose a button-down. The main question was whether I opted for a fully soft, semi-soft or rigid collar. Although initially I was going for a completely flexible collar, Faye recommended a semi-flexible collar instead, allowing me to wear a tie more easily so that it is well maintained. This is exactly what I did!  Finally, the buttons are mother-of-pearl. It is of course possible to choose other materials.

Where the “MTO” offer stands out, is in the possibility of choosing from all of its options listed above. If you've always been frustrated, like me, about not being able to wear a Drake's shirt because the sleeves were too long or too small, this deal fixes that. I would of course point out that it is entirely conceivable to opt for another type of shirt, say for instance, an overshirt. 

Another very positive point, if you already know your measurements and size, the MTO offer allows you to create a shirt to your liking, using your Drake’s shirt size. Namely, if you have a type of shirt in mind that the brand does not offer on its site or in store, you can create it! Example: a black linen shirt with two chest pockets with a button-down collar with mother-of-pearl buttons...the example is deliberately far-fetched!

The making of the shirt, Made in the UK

All Drake's shirts are made in their workshop in Chard, in Somerset near London. The Rayner & Sturges factory - founded in 1913 - was acquired by the brand in 2013, which allows it to produce its shirts on British soil while benefiting from more than a century-old know-how.  Historically, Drake's is known for being a tie manufacturer, so it made sense to expand its line with shirts. A beautiful tie can only match a beautiful shirt. On this subject, Faye informs us that the shirts are made from 18 pieces sewn together. This gives a little idea of ​​the work behind the finished product. The brand offers the essentials of beautifuly crafted shirts: mother-of-pearl buttons, refined English seams on the sides and above all beautiful fabrics. Drake’s regularly pays tribute to the men and women behind their beautiful products, read more here. 

How do we wear our MTO shirts?

If I explained my experience above, Thomas also had the pleasure in living the process but chose a completely different style and fabric that you will discover below.

As for me, I wear this shirt with a Teba jacket from Justo Gimeno in green linen, an olive green silk knit tie from Sozzi Calze, Uniqlo U chinos, Alden LSH penny loafers and Bresciani green linen socks. My Drake's shirt - like all of the brand's button-down collar shirts - features a button at the back of the collar. If it has a practical function to keep the tie in place, it also has an anecdote behind it. It was customary that in the 1950s, students on American campuses used buttoning to signify that they had their hearts taken. Those who unbuttoned it were therefore single, so those who buttoned the back button were in a relationship or married. Although I am in the latter category, I always prefer to keep the back button free, from a pure aesthetic point of view.

Thomas, for his part, opted for a 100% linen Cuban collar shirt. On this subject, we must say that we are quite demanding and often disappointed. Linen fabrics (shirt weight) often lack finesse and density for our taste. Or at least entry-level ones. Just like poplins, this type of fabric does not support ill-made shirts, unlike oxford cloth which is often recommended for inexpensive shirts. Here the fabric selected by Drake’s is ideal. Very light and sufficiently dense, and a very nice deep blue with some marvel.

Unlike me, Thomas started with a shirt from the current collection that he really liked. The options correspond to the latter, namely a soft camp collar, 2 flap pockets, 2 pleats in the back, white mother-of-pearl buttons. It would have been possible to add embroidery with his initials but that would not really have made sense in the case of this very casual shirt.

You will have noticed, it is not Thomas but Mathieu who wears the shirt for this photoshoot, althought it was made for Thomas, our photographer. It must be said that they both have a similar body size and that the shirt has only been altered at the sleeve length, -1cm to be precise. But as explained above, it would also have been possible to change the length of the shirt. It is in this sense that we believe that Made To Order is very useful for many customers, including us. By modifying these 2 parameters (sleeve length and body length of the shirt), you will have a very good result for 80% of people. And unlike Ready-to-Wear, you will have the opportunity to choose your own fabrics, collar and cuffs. The best of both worlds.

Finally, Drake’s is soon organizing a trunk show in Paris from October 4 to 6, an opportunity to meet the wonderful team and touch the fabrics to bring your commission project to fruition. We won't miss a visit! More details soon.

Added bonus, here are some images taken during the first meeting.

Camiseria Burgos – The shirt maker of Spanish kings, the king of Spanish shirt makers

Text: Marcos E.

The Burgos shop in the early 20th century. (Photo from the Burgos website)

The Burgos shop as it stands today (Photo from our October 2022 visit)

At number 2 of calle de Cedaceros in Madrid is the oldest shirt maker in Spain. The emblematic Camiseria Burgos was founded in 1906 by Julian P. Burgos. Now run by the Olave family, this extraordinary place has had legendary customers such as Hemingway, Orson Welles, Cary Grant and Pablo Picasso. All of them have enjoyed the elegance of this house. 

During a weekend in Madrid, I was able to visit this historical temple of Spanish craftsmanship where everything is made on site or in Spain in incredible fabrics.

Let's open the doors of Burgos. 

A store with an authentic flair

I am greeted by Carmen Alvarez, third generation and great-grandniece of the owner Santiago Olave. The store is bathed in a bright light in a late Art Nouveau style setting. The ceiling is high, allowing the numerous wall-mounted display cases to fit in and display exceptional pieces.

The interior of the Burgos store with the chair where Cary Grant used to sit

My wife, who accompanied me, sits in the walnut chair in the foreground of the photo above. "Cary Grant used to sit there and spend hours chatting with my great-grandmother, he loved our store”. The tone is set, we are in an exceptional place, as there are few. 

Like works of art, the company's know-how is masterfully displayed behind glass

"This is the model of Guayabera Hemingway wore, he loved this shirt" says Carmen. This particular shirt takes its name from the four pockets - two on the chest and two on the waist.

Ernest Hemingway's Guayabera model

Worn especially in Latin America and seen as an anti-colonial symbol par excellence, it was created by guaya farmers – a tropical fruit resembling a small lime – who had sewn several pockets on their shirts in order to maximize the harvest and be able to carry more fruit.

Ernest Hemingway wearing his Guayabera Burgos in 1957 
(Colorized photo, taken by the legendary photographer Yousuf Karsh, all rights reserved)

The wearers of Guayaberas are countless, from Fidel Castro to Roger Moore or even Prince Harry, this shirt breathes summer and dolce vita. It is mostly cut in a white linen/cotton blend and can be long or short-sleeved.

A custom-made Guayabera in white linen and cotton has been ordered from Burgos but we will dedicate an entire article to this atypical piece when the heat returns. 

An exceptional Spanish know-how

Burgos is the official shirt maker of the King of Spain. "We are the shirt maker of Felipe VI long before he ascended the throne, we are very proud of it!" says Carmen. There's a lot to be proud of. With references to prestigious fabrics such as Thomas Mason – offering poplin, twill, oxford or linen – the choices are countless and of quality.

Autographed photo of King Felipe VI, at the time still Prince.

"Affectionate greetings to the Camiseria Burgos for this first centenary. Congratulations to all and my best wishes for your future” reads the card.

Recently, the king on vacation wore a Guayabera shirt from the Spanish house. "He is our ambassador, in a way, of the exceptional Spanish know-how" says Carmen.

The King Felipe VI wearing his Burgos Guayabera

one of Thomas Mason's many fabric books

the different inscriptions possible on the shirts, from crowns to simple initials.

"Each of our shirts are cut in our workshop, in the basement of our store. Follow me”. Carmen leads me to a spiral staircase that leads to a room with a high ceiling and a peaceful atmosphere. What strikes me immediately is the meticulousness with which the craftsmen devote themselves to their cutting work. I inextricably thought of the tailors on Savile Row who carefully stack up customers' patterns, referencing them by name. 

Craftsmen cutting kraft paper patterns, as is customary on Savile Row.

Cut shirts, ready to be sewn.

This is what the floor looks like after a day of cutting – just a small overview !

Carmen continues: "20% of our customers are foreigners, but the other 80% are Spanish and have expectations about the quality of our products. One customer complained that he was damaging his shirts while ironing them...We sometimes receive housekeepers of some of our customers to show them exactly how to iron our shirts! We also offer an ironing and dry-cleaning service, this is the Burgos service”.

Burgos makes bespoke shirts – by hand – or MTM – by machine – prices vary from 90 to 400 € depending on the choice of service and fabric. The good news is that Burgos offers remote MTM, making it possible to send your measurements by email to order a shirt. A second piece of good news awaits you at the end of this article!

The "Domecq", the Burgos Teba  

The Teba is a long love story of mine. In my opinion, it’s the easiest garment to integrate into an outfit as it is a real chameleon piece. It can be worn with or without a tie. This jacket is truly the Swiss Army knife - or Leatherman - of a man's wardrobe. The Teba is rather a more casual than dressy piece, but therein lies its beauty.

When Carmen asked me to try the “Domecq” – a Burgos exclusive – I was very intrigued. The particularity is that it borrows some characteristics from the traditional blazer while keeping its "Tiradora" soul – the other name for the Teba jacket, initially a hunting jacket. 

Like a classic Teba, the Domecq is completely unstructured – always extremely pleasant in my opinion – but with rounded fronts and two vents in the back. The "Domecq" still has the shirt-cuff sleeves, a characteristic Teba-collar and three patch pockets, one of which on the chest. 

I chose a luxurious fabric, a thick jersey blue cashmere with an extremely nice and soft hand and gold buttons for a totally Brooks Brothers look. I think hybrid clothing doesn't always last over time, especially from a style standpoint. But here, something just works. I must confess that the rounded fronts bothered me initially, because for me, the Teba is straight and without vents in the back. But during my Madrilenian stay, I saw some gentlemen wearing the Domecq with elegance. 

The Domecq is entirely made in Spain, in Zaragoza by Justo Gimeno. It is exclusive to Burgos.

How do you wear the Domecq?

The Domecq Teba is more formal than a classic Teba. I really like the Brooks Brothers American feel with the gold buttons. For this reason, I totally chose to integrate it in an Ivy outfit.

I’m wearing a regimental tie from Gabucci, Alden cordovan penny loafers, beige socks from Mes Chaussettes Rouges, a light green OCBD shirt from Kamakura and khaki trousers from Uniqlo U.

In short: Spanish excellence

As stated previously, the special features of the Domecq are the gold buttons and the curved fronts of the jacket making it more formal, like a classic blazer.

The Domecq is cut here in a luxurious fabric, a blue cashmere with a soft hand that does not wrinkle. Other fabrics and colors can be ordered, with or without gold buttons. You can make your own Domecq.

Good news, Burgos has an online eshop – for the moment only in Spanish, but a Google translation will suffice – and offers ready-to-wear garments. You’ll need 150 € for a Guayabera and 450 € for a Teba.

Some pictures during our visit to the Burgos store and workshop in Madrid.

How to dress for work (office)

Today we are inaugurating a new type of article. Who hasn't struggled with what to wear before going out to a social event? A wedding, a night out with friends, a job interview...We don't pretend to have one unique answer but we do have some ideas on how to make these outings more enjoyable. With a little delay, we wonder how to dress for going back to the office ?

Here is our proposal in images.

Marcos is wearing: 

- A blue cotton Teba from Justo Gimeno 

- A club tie from the Parisian boutique Kimono

- An Oxford Cloth Button Down shirt from Camessi 

- A pair of Prologue trousers 

- Alden single monk strap shoes 

- An ARKET bag
- A pair of Moscot Lemtosh model smoked blue lenses

We love Teba jackets, real alternatives to blazers, which add panache to an outfit. Those lapels do it all. 

The club tie is a men's wardrobe essential and a reminder that even though Summer is over, the stripes on this beauty signal the start of an exciting new journey. 

Tired of white or light blue poplin shirts? We suggest opting for an OCBD - with flap pocket! - so that your colleagues will compliment you and wonder: "I've never seen this type of breast pocket, it's not bad!” Yes, and very practical at the same time. 

Gray trousers help tie the whole outfit together, because gray goes with everything. Prefer flannel for the days to come, it will keep you warm and you will look stylish. 

As for the shoes, after years of wearing double monks, we concede to the charm of the single monk, fiercely current. After all, doesn't your grandfather look good in them?

Abbot’s, specializing in selling quality second-hand shoes

Our wardrobes are (too) rich with clothes. To lighten them, we have two options: rationalize our purchases or sell what we don't wear/love anymore. My mantra is to part with one piece when I buy a more consequent one. It's a sort of balance I've been working on for a few years now...which is not always strictly adhered to because you shouldn't try to part with - or buy - a piece at all costs.This is done organically. As for me, I have several pairs of shoes - my wife would say too many, I would say not enough - inevitably, I get tired of certain pairs. Sometimes, I even get the wrong size because I haven't tried the model in-store or the brand's online store doesn't offer a full refund. That's the game. So I turn to online resale platforms. You know several here in France, Le Boncoin, eBay or Vinted. 

However, how do you resell a quality pair - bought at a high price - to a public of connoisseurs ? Often, I find myself selling pairs of Crockett & Jones on Vinted for pennyworth...I eventually found the solution to remedy this. Here is how I managed to resell my pair of Alden "Longwing" model in "color 8 cordovan" on a specialized high quality shoe reseller website called Abbot’s. 

Let’s have a closer look.

 Abbot's, the English website specialized in the sale of second hand shoes

On Instagram, I recently spotted an English website specialized in second hand shoes resale, Abbot's.

 The founder, Adam Luck, agreed to answer a few questions.

What made you start Abbot’s ?

Shortly after graduating from university I began working in the financial services district of London, known as ‘The City’, I used to love walking past the shoe shops and admiring the window displays of the likes of Church’s, Joseph Cheaney and Crockett & Jones. However, I could not afford the prices they sold their shoes at, so I had the idea to purchase myself a pre-owned pair of Church’s and restore them.

 I taught myself how to clean and polish the shoes to get them looking as close to a new pair as I could and was thrilled with the end result. I continued to purchase and refurbish pre-owned shoes as I enjoyed the process, eventually I started doing it for friends and family as well as selling shoes online which I had restored. This hobby eventually snowballed and evolved into a full-time job and a small business that is now Abbot’s. 

What are the criteria for a pair of shoes to be offered at Abbot’s (brand, model, condition) ?

The two main factors we look for are quality and condition. We only consider shoes from brands in which we are confident in the quality of the materials they use and the construction methods used in production. Condition is also very important, as we want our customers to wear the shoes they purchase from us for many years to come. We only consider shoes with many years of wear left. We purchase a lot of different brands and consider shoes on a case by case basis, some of the most popular brands we buy and sell are Edward Green, Church’s, Joseph Cheaney, Tricker’s, Loake and Alden.

In what way do you think buying second-hand is the solution to mass production ?

While we do not think buying second-hand is the solution to mass production, we feel it can have a large impact in combating the multifaceted problems unsustainable mass production practices can create. We do not feel there is anything wrong with the basic concept of mass production, however, we feel the problem lies with the lack of sustainable practices within mass production manufacturing as well as the disposable nature of the goods it inherently produces. Purchasing and selling second hand goods instead of new items can certainly help play a role in combating mass production as it can shift demand away from companies producing unsustainable disposable goods and towards companies making quality items that can stand the test of time and thus hold their value.   

We feel purchasing second hand is especially important with leather goods such as footwear. The mass production of leather shoes is not a sustainable practice. The manufacturing of leather shoes account for a quarter of global footwear production, but up to 80% of its environmental impact. The lack of high-quality and eco-friendly materials that can stand in for leather means it is important to make full use of leather goods. Wearing leather shoes for just 9 extra months, instead of buying a new pair, can drastically reduce the carbon, water and waste footprint by up to 30%.

We would encourage consumers to seek quality items, make good use of them, have them repaired and once they are no longer wanted sell them on, so they can continue to be used.

In France, major brands have started offering second-hand shoes directly in their shops - such as Paraboot and J. M. Weston - do you think UK shoe brands will follow ?

We hope so. The popular UK footwear brand Dr. Martens currently have an interesting collaboration with online marketplace Depop selling refurbished shoes and boots, it would be great to see some other UK brands follow suit. We feel offering second-hand shoes in store, like the aforementioned French brands, is a great way of showcasing how welted shoes can often look even better than when they were new with wear and age. We feel the excellent refurbishment/repair services offered by the larger Northampton brands are often underutilized and showcasing pre-owned shoes in store could be a great way of promoting the repair and reuse of welted shoes.

Lastly, if you had only one pair of shoes, which one would it be and why ?

That is a tricky one when I am surrounded by amazing pairs of shoes every day. Perhaps, I would choose the Edward Green ‘Dover’ in dark oak calf. I feel it is a very elegant versatile shoe that can be smart enough to wear with a suit in formal settings but also look good with a pair of jeans or chinos in more casual settings. However, as I am a keen footballer, I might get some funny looks trying to kick a football in them!

Thanks Adam !

What is the process in selling your quality high-end shoes on Abbot's?

The principle is simple. First of all, you have to send an electronic request - through their website - attaching photos, a short description of the brand, model and condition of the shoes to be sold.

You then have two options: either sell the pair directly - and be purchased by Abbot's - or consign and send the pair to Abbot's.com.

If you choose the first option - i.e. direct purchase by Abbot's - then the price will be lower than a consignment. Abbot's takes 25% off the final sale price if you choose the deposit sale.

Please note that the shipping costs of the pair to the UK are at your expense.

My pair of Alden Longwings in cordovan color 8 on Abbot’s

 Here are some screenshots of when my pair was up on the website. The quality of the images and attention to detail are astonishing, I myself could have bought them again !

For a consignment, my pair of Aldens was valued at £450 (about 500€). From this, you have to deduct the site’s commission, which takes care of photographing, cleaning and promoting the pair, that is to say 25%, so £281.25 (about 332€). This may seem like a lot, but by choosing Abbot's, which is a specialized platform for quality shoes, your chances of success are much higher than with any other unspecialized selling platform.

For a direct sale, my pair was valued - after commission - at £260 (about 307€).

I chose the first option. Simply because I was not in a hurry and I wanted to test the efficiency of the site. I was not disappointed! My pair was sold in less than a week. For the payment, it is necessary to wait 14 days after the buyer receives his pair so that Abbot's may release the payment to the seller. For my pair of Aldens, the buyer did not use his right of withdrawal and I was paid by the site without any hassle.

Why choose Abbot's ?

I believe it is necessary today to offer a guarantee of purchase and sale for second-hand products. This principle has been adopted in the French art market thanks to a decree - the Marcus decree of March 3, 1981 on the repression of fraud in the field of art and collectibles transactions - which lists the principles and nomenclatures according to which the auctioneer must proceed when putting art objects up for sale. Thus, if you are faced with an authentic Renoir painting, the auctioneer will use the artist's name directly. If, on the other hand, the auctioneer - and the expert - have doubts about its authenticity, but still think there is a good chance that the painting was executed by Renoir, then the Marcus decree requires the auctioneer to put "attributed to Renoir". The price of the painting will be impacted but the auctioneers’ and experts’ responsibility will be preserved.

The parallel can be - and should be - drawn for the second-hand clothing/shoe market as well. From my point of view, Abbot's can crystallize this endeavor. Namely, when a pair is entrusted to them, they have the possibility to authenticate it, to estimate it and to put it on sale. Like the auctioneer, Abbot’s works in the interest of the seller, acting as his guardian.

For all these reasons, I think Abbot's has earned its place in the second-hand market and the website deserves to be known and acknowledged as much as the brands offered on their platform. In addition to offering quality shoes and service, Adam and his team are unmatched in their kindness and responsiveness. An indispensable service in an inexhaustible world.

Justo Gimeno – The Spanish gem

Charles-Édouard Jeanneret-Gris, known as Le Corbusier, had a rational vision of the architectural organization of space. It was essential to be able to do more with less, the optimization of space was an obsession for this visionary creator. This is how he ordered his structures on a free plan and imagined his constructions as a total work of art: his conceptions integrate all collective equipments in a single building. This was the beginning of postmodernism and the rationalization of urban space. Le Corbusier also loved clothing. He was a well-known customer of the Arnys house. Léon Grimbert, head-tailor of the French house, imagined one day a jacket for this peculiar customer. "An elegant jacket that forgets it is part of a suit" boasted Arnys in 2010, the "Forestière". A jacket with a collar without flap and patch pockets, inspired by those worn by the forest rangers of the French region of Sologne. If the house has since disappeared, the heritage of this jacket remains intact. 

The garment is the historical product of its social context, the desire to extirpate from its social condition and the search for comfort are often the catalysts. This hybrid jacket finds its echo in other clothes before it, in particular the hunting jackets. This is the case of the Teba jacket, a revolutionary jacket.

Here is the story of a love affair with clothing as it rarely happens, the Teba jacket by Justo Gimeno being the protagonist.

Let’s have a closer look.

What is a Teba jacket?

The Teba jacket is named from the 22nd Count of Teba, Carlos Alfonso de Mitjans y Fitz-James Stuart (1907 - 1997), grand-nephew of the Empress Eugénie. He was said to be the best shooter in Europe and was given a jacket by King Alfonso XIII (1886 - 1941), cut in Savile Row, which - after some improvements by a tailor from Zarautz, in the Spanish Basque Country - has survived the ages.

My quest 

Like many, after exploring the casual and formal possibilities of my wardrobe, I felt I was missing an in-between. I was looking for a jacket that would be an intermediary between casual and formal. I was looking for a kind of urban slack jacket. 

My fascination began after a trip to Andalusia in 2019 where all the elegant old gentlemen I met on the street were wearing a peculiar jacket with style. I noted the characteristic rounded lapel notch, buttons on the sleeves, 4 central buttons and above all a total absence of interlining. A completely unstructured jacket. It was for me a must have, almost an obsession. I did some research and went to a Sevillian store that sold suits, I learned that it was a jacket called "Teba" from the name of the count who offered this piece to King Alfons XIII for his hunting sprees. The seller told me the other name of the "chaqueta Teba" was "la tiradora", because one "shoots" with it. Heading this time to "El Corte Inglés" - equivalent of Galeries Lafayette in Spain - I discover that the Tebas are sold as timeless garments but in limited fabrics and colors: cotton/jersey and mostly blue or green. As often, no size could satisfy my body shape.

Back in Paris, I started looking for a Teba, in vain. I even ordered one from a tailor, but the result was not convincing, I did not find the casualness with which these old Sevillian gentlemen used to wear this chaqueta. I also ordered one on the Spanish website Lopez Aragon, but again, the Teba was missing something.

I had heard of Spanish workshops that made Tebas. Bel y Cia in Barcelona was one of them, a tailoring house making Tebas in MTM - Made to Measure - but extremely expensive. I did some research and found Justo Gimeno, in Zaragoza. I see that they are distributed in Paris at Beige Habilleur but unfortunately the selected sizes did not suit me ... Justo Gimeno has no website, but they do have an Instagram account! This is how my adventure with Justo Gimeno began. 

A house more than a century old

In 1885, Justo Gimeno Padrilla left Argentina to train as a tailor in Spain, opening his first workshop in Zaragoza.  For some years, the company has been collaborating with several brands, making Tebas for them (Merchant Fox is one of them, always in exclusive fabrics).

Justo Gimeno obviously offers a tailoring service in Zaragoza. But since I couldn't get there easily, I asked them if it was possible to do "remote Made-To-Measure". It's a risky endeavor when you don't know your measurements well, but I've already ordered entire suits following this principle (my Prologue Hong Kong suits and jackets for example!).  An exchange of emails with the sales manager followed and I then ordered two jackets: one in blue fresco wool and the other in green linen. 

The conquest

Once I received the jackets, I was conquered. The measurements were perfect, the jackets well cut. Justo Gimeno does not - to my knowledge – make remote MTM. For this reason, I had ordered a surplus of blue fresco fabric to make trousers to transform this Teba jacket into a suit. I did this with Ardentes Clipei, a tailor in Paris.

Today I have several Teba jackets, all from Justo Gimeno. The fabrics, the service, the quality and the overall rendering are incredible. 

I often wear a Teba jacket as a mismatch, but I can also turn it into a suit with my blue fresco trousers. I often wear it to work as pictured here: a blue knit tie, an OCBD flap pocket, knee socks and belgian loafers from Crown Northampton. Nothing prevents me from swapping these loafers for canvas shoes for example. Because that's the advantage of an outfit with a Teba jacket: everything is possible.

The perfect jacket 

Since lockdown (Act I, March 2020), our way of dressing has evolved. Less suits, more comfort. But comfort does not come before style. For this reason, I think the Teba jacket is the most attractive piece in my wardrobe. I wear it continuously and on all occasions: work, outings and even weddings...I constantly get compliments and questions about it when I wear it, and I always answer them with the same enthusiasm. If you're still not convinced, consider even James Bond wore a Teba jacket. It was in 1989, with Timothy Dalton in License to Kill.

Where to find a Teba in Paris/France?  

- Beige Habilleur (exclusive distributor of Justo Gimeno in France)

- Cifonelli

- Artumès & Co

- Artling

- Berteil

On which websites can I find a Teba ? 

- The Armoury

- Michael Jondral

- Curzon Classics

- Oliver Brown

- Last of England

- Bel y Cia

- The Merchant Fox

- Lopez Aragon

Archivio tie E. Marinella – Napoli

Note: At our request, Marinella agreed to send us the tie that you will discover in this article.

In an increasingly less formal world, it seems incongruous to wear a tie. Over time, this accessory has gradually become an emblem of sophistication among others. It's hard to defend wearing a tie at work when all your colleagues adopt open shirt collars - collars that are often far too short and that bend inwards - a pair of jeans and a very slim-fit blazer. A minority still wear a tie, sometimes out of obligation but mostly by choice. I fall into this second category. 

If you are not familiar with E. Marinella, you will discover the essence of tie-making. For those who know, you will only be able to nod and enjoy our photos. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

A Neapolitan Italianità proudly claimed

Much has been written and said about Naples - Napule in Neapolitan dialect. The Parthenopian city is a concentrate of tailor-made art in constant turmoil. Probably because of the nearby Vesuvius, which watches over rather than threatens the city. Those who have already had the chance to travel to this city will attest to its special atmosphere. 

In Naples, the inhabitants are not Italians, but Neapolitans firstly. The dialect and the Napoletano way of life irrigate daily relations. Naples is a concentrate of culture, football and tailoring know-how. 

At 287 Via Riviera Chiaia nestles a more than century-old shop, a true Neapolitan institution: E. Marinella. Although the store is only 20m2, its influence is worldwide. 

The house offers a selection of shirts, scarves, pocket squares, scarves, sweaters, berets, shoes and especially ties. An exceptional choice. The house was founded on June 26, 1914 when Don Eugenio realized his vision of a store that would be a mirror of the most elegant, inspired by the English Savile Row. If the overused term "sprezzatura" has been analysed and misunderstood, Eugenio Marinella defends sobriety in elegance: "never wear a sky-blue shirt at night or a bright red tie" are part of his precepts. 

Thanks to an article by the novelist and journalist Matilde Serao at the beginning of the century, Marinella's house gained importance and aroused Prince Humbert of Savoy’s curiosity, who personally went to the shop to buy elegant ties for his social outings. His uncle, Emmanuelle Filiberto, Duke of Aosta, used to spend whole afternoons there. 

Manufacturing

If we have not yet had the chance to visit the Marinella workshops, the brand is present every year at the Bon Marché Paris Rive Gauche during the Christmas holidays. Maurizio Marinella travels regularly in person, accompanied by two seamstresses who make custom-made ties on the spot.
On this occasion, we were able to see how a Marinella tie is assembled in the best possible way. As an example, the structure of the tie - the seam that closes the tie along its length - is assembled by hand. This is the only way to guarantee an exceptional hand and longevity of the tie. 

A piece of fabric from the E collection. Marinella Archivio

The E. Marinella Archivio collection is a time machine. It allows you to (re)discover fabrics from the past. The opportunity to get your hands on real gems, treasures waiting to be unearthed. It is no chance the most illustrious men of the century wear them around their necks. 

The archivio brings together fabrics produced in the UK from the 1930s to the 1980s. The archive has over sixty designs in over two hundred colors that add to the house's already extensive collection. 

The archivio collection is therefore a real gift from E. Marinella, a gift to be worn without moderation proudly around the neck. 

I'm wearing a Vintage Marinella tie made from a fabric dating back to 1948. I wear it with a Prologue jacket and pants and a Camessi* shirt. The tie is a beautiful burgundy color with cream-colored medallions. It enlightens an outfit without obscuring it. 

*reviews to be discovered soon. 

Text : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.

The Anthology - Lazyman Jacket

Text: Marcos Eliades
Photos: Thomas M.

2020, what a year. Punctuated by two French lockdowns and a global pandemic of unprecedented magnitude, the past year will be remembered. 

It seemed futile to worry about anything other the well-being of others or one's health. "Eppure, si muove" would have said Galileo. Yet the world continued to work and the Skypéro (in French, contraction of “Skype” and “aperitif”) became legion to the detriment of hugs and handshakes with friends and family. For many, questions of appearance or daily dress were relegated to the background. Rightly so, you might say. How can we think about clothing when we are in the eye of the storm? Quite simply because it constitutes our body envelope, literally our second skin. The euphoria of indoor clothing during the first weeks of lockdown gradually gave way to an irresistible urge to get dressed up again. I remember how I meticulously prepared my outfits for the authorized and strictly supervised outings within a one-kilometer radius. A pair of beige chinos, black penny loafers, a white crew t-shirt, a chambray shirt and a denim jacket. Not knowing when we would be free again, I opted for outfits that filled me with joy when I composed them. Although my accessories of the moment were the alcohol solutions and home-made masks, I found a semblance of normality.  However, as in any crisis, rays of light emerge. Men's fashion brands began to mobilize to make their contribution helping caregivers. This is notably the case of the Hong Kong brand The Anthology, which created colorful cotton t-shirts to support this cause. 

Since two years, The Anthology offers clothing adapted to our urban and bucolic outings. Thus was born the Lazyman Jacket. 

Let’s have a closer look.

A suit story

The two founders, Andy Chong and Buzz Tang, are passionate about the art of tailoring. It was therefore logical they founded The Anthology by offering a bespoke suit service. 

The suits made by the duo are inspired by the traditional art of tailoring, but revisited by offering generous low-gorge lapels soft padding. The silhouette is natural, the shoulders are well constructed and are rather inspired by English than Italian craftsmanship: this gives it a more timeless look. Nonetheless, "soft tailoring" irrigates The Anthology: it is easy to wear a suit without overdressing it. In a world that is becoming less formal, it is essential to be comfortable in one's clothes above all, this does not mean being neglected. 

The Anthology pushes to the exploration of clothing, without being avant-gardist for all that. Although blue and grey are essential colors for men's wardrobe, the brand pushes men to explore English or Italian fabrics with patterns and colors that remain classic, elegant and adapted to everyday life.

Without any further ado, here is Buzz Tang, co-founder of The Anthology, let’s see what he has to say. 

How did The Anthology come to exist?
A story of two like-minded, like how many other businesses started.

Having the privilege to run The Anthology is a matter of serendipity and also “right time right place”: I met Andy, who is the other pillar of The Anthology when I was 18. We share the same goal in terms of how we perceive a brand, but also have very different perspectives. Thus, we effectively fill each other’s gaps which in turn makes the label more all-rounded. Based on his expertise in bespoke tailoring and my prior experience on Savile Row, Andy and I knew there would be an opportunity to start a concept shop that conveys the story of a modern man who carries that tasteful eclectic identity, a bricolage of the modern and the old. Thus, The Anthology was born.

Where did you use to make your suits prior to founding The Anthology?
An old tailor my dad used to visit, an open-minded senior who sadly passed away. He was a man with no boundaries. I also commissioned bespoke pieces from a few renowned Italian names whilst I was in London. In terms of ready-to-wear tailoring garments, I was spoilt by my uncle, who was a big Ralph Lauren Purple Label patron.

Where do you draw inspiration from?
Everywhere. Certainly, less on the famous menswear icons but things surrounding us, say art pieces and Pantone. I always think clothing should be relatable than to look pompous. We are not costume designers as much as I have a lot of respect for these geniuses.

What is The Anthology’s « House cut »?
Contemporary with a hint of old-school glamour. Soft, laid-back style, which is presented via the use of soft shoulders, with slightly roped and extended shoulders that retain a bit of formality. A fuller and more generous cut in consideration of practicality comfort. Without comfort, a person can hardly look at ease and confidence. 
Our house style also features extended wide shoulders, a low gorge and a specific balance of collar and lapel proportions that we’ve tweaked for almost a year, in which we see these details the most distinctive details of our design.

What do you think of modern tailoring today?
Define modern tailoring. If it’s about people wearing suits with sneakers, I’m certainly not against it. People trying to incorporate tailoring with fashion items? I am a fan. There’s only so much we can do with traditional tailoring, and it is not a bad thing to broaden our horizons, especially in 2021.

What effect do you think the pandemic is having on menswear?
Certainly a lot. People get to wear fewer suits, shifting to more casual wear pieces. The suiting market certainly deteriorates in most parts of the world but that doesn’t mean it’s a bad thing. It may lead to new opportunities. Perhaps we can get to see more interesting sport jackets and trousers combo in the coming years?

What does the future hold for The Anthology?
Evolution and reinvention. The team and I are thinking of how we can refine our products, service, aesthetics and identity every day.

‘To unlearn and learn from classics in order to make things modern’ - that has been our motto since Day 0. We will respectfully shun the traditional aesthetics and make tailoring pieces modern and adaptable in our daily lives, and will also remember sartorialism is a sweet reminiscence of the old times, but it might not be sustainable decades down the road. In order to make this sunset industry survive, we need to democratize this genre - to create original designs that are partially inspired from yesterday, but designed for today and the future.

The opposite of laziness: the Lazyman jacket

What to wear when you are home-working but the desire not to give in to indoor tracksuits becomes a personal affair? 
A jacket with a 47% wool, 38% baby llama, 5% cashmere and 10% polyamide composition is the answer. 

The color blue is undoubtedly man's best friend. Add to this an unlined and completely unstructured jacket and you have a perfect cocktail. The Lazyman jacket looks as good as a cardigan as it does a jacket.  It has three functional pockets, roll up sleeves and adjustable side tabs in the back. 

The fabric was woven in Biella, Italy, and is quite astonishingly soft. This jacket is designed to be worn every day and is perfect for different occasions. With or without a shirt, with or without a tie, the jacket is a perfect modern hybrid piece. 

I'm wearing a Vitale Barberis Canonico gray flannel sartorial pant, Alden tassel loafers and a John Smedley turtleneck. But I could very well have worn jeans and sneakers. In the end, the jacket is very versatile thanks to this textured fabric. 

The perfect compromise of not being over-dressed

Finally, the Lazyman jacket fits perfectly to our (new) everyday life as well as to the old one. It is easy to put it over a sweater and the navy-blue color is by no means dull, thanks to this particular fabric. 

A nice brand to discover, the jacket is available here: https://theanthology.net/shop/lazyman-jacket-navyteal-boucle

Check out the rest of The Anthology's website and their Instagram account: a real source of inspiration!

Crown Northampton Desert Boots Chromexcel

Note: At our request, Crown Northampton agreed to send us the Desert Boots that you will discover in this article.

Text : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Thomas M.

Some menswear pieces are timeless must-haves, indispensables. Desert boots are fully part of them. We will not settle the eternal Wallabees/Desert boots debate here - although we prefer the latter model - but we will try to stress out the importance of having this model one's wardrobe. 

The available models on the market are innumerable: smooth leather, suede leather, modified leather... The English brand - more than a century old - Crown Northampton revives this historical model and offers a selection of premium leathers as well as an interesting customization. 

Here is the story of the Woodford desert boots in Chromexcel color 8 from Horween, made in England. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

Northampton or the cradle of English shoes

The Woodford family began crafting shoes back in 1908 in London. A few years later the founder Earnest Woodford, relocated production to Northampton, a major manufacturing centre of English footwear. 

Each model produced by the brand bears the name of a street adjacent to the Northampton factory. The company is also the only one to have the privilege of using the town's crest on its products: « Castello Fortior Concordia » which translates to « Peace is stronger than a fortress ».

Leather sourcing is certainly Crown Northampton's forte. A selection ranging from suede, to calfskin as well as more exotic like ostrich ! When possible, Crown Northampton collaborates with local suppliers such as the Charles F. Stead & Co Ltd. tannery. If Saville Row is where one should commission a suit, Northamptonshire is where one’s shoes must be welted. 

Each pair exiting Crown Northampton's factory is the result of a number of stages performed by experienced craftsmen. All of these stages of production are carried out in England, either in-house or with special manufacturers.

Thus, like the biggest English brands, Crown Northampton carries out its last - or « formes » in French - with the regions’ last manufacturer: Springline. This marks the beginning of the shoe manufacturing process. Then comes the manual cutting of the leather which is known as "clicking". A characteristic clicking sound can be heard when cutting the leather by rubbing on the metal pattern, which justifies this name. 
This is followed by other operations such as the sewing process, or "closing", of the different sections of the leather. An operation of "hand lasting" allows the shoe to acquire the final shape desired, the sole is then sewn. The final polishing step ensures that each shoe is polished and quality controlled before it is shipped.

Brief history of the Desert Boot

Like any piece of men's fashion, the Desert Boot model has a story behind. In 1941, the young Englishman Nathan Clark was sent to Burma and then to Egypt as an officer in the Royal Army Service Corps.
Nathan Clark* was abruptly confronted with the reality of the Egyptian desert: the footwear was not adapted to the harsh terrain. In a souk in Cairo, he got his hands on a pair of derbies in suede calfskin with crepe soles. They were comfortable and light. 
9 years later, thanks to a fruitful collaboration with engineer Bill Tuxhill, the Desert Boot was born. 
A model that is now more than 70 years old!

*His grand-father is none other than the founder of Clark’s, founded in 1825 in Somerset. 

The 4x4 of leather: Chromexcel

Crown Northampton offers the possibility to order an MTO model, i.e. "Made-to-order". This means that it is possible to order a shoe while choosing the sole. This also ensures the model is strictly manufactured for you and avoids overproduction. 

This is how we chose the Woodford Desert Boot in brown Chromexcel leather #8 from the American company Horween.  The color is reminiscent of a purplish eggplant brownish tone. A real trademark. The sole is made of crepe, the shoe has two eyelets - as is customary on the emblematic model of the 1950s - and the model is very light! 

The particularity of this model is its leather. The historical American Horween tannery in Chicago provides the raw material. Chromexcel was invented in 1905 by the company, it is a "pull-up" leather, i.e. a greasy leather. This means it has been nourished considerably by various oils, grease and waxes during the manufacturing process. Chromexcel leather has the great advantage of being water resistant. 
More than 89 different operations over a 28-day span are necessary to manufacture it, so this leather is expensive. But its beauty is unbeatable: it ensures a beautiful patina over time.
Chromexcel is a hard and resistant leather, we choose to mistreat it voluntarily or rather, not to pamper it. We wish to let it live accordingly daily! 

The desert boot can be easily integrated into a casual outfit. A pair of jeans of course, a chunky sweater and a balmacaan coat with raglan sleeves to top it off. Needless to say, this type of shoe is exclusively reserved to casual outfits. 

Northampton's heritage and English quality

To our knowledge, Crown Northampton is one of the few footwear manufacturers on the European continent to offer this type of Chromexcel "color 8" leather. The pair is sold for £275. An investment, but it will be a long-lasting one. One can even send their pair for a repair service. Yes, one can change the crepe soles.

After all, a pair made expressly for you and in the best conditions possible, worth it, is it not ?

Vanacore Napoli

Vanacore Napoli

Napolitan Shirtmaker

”All roads lead to Rome” says the famous proverb, but one needs to “see Naples and die” said Goethe. The Parthenopean city, cradle to a thousand-year civilization, is today a phantasy for menswear enthusiasts.

These past ten years, France is home to a true “italopazzia” or “italomania”. Brands lurk opportunities to offer a garment with Neapolitan details, lacking the proper know-how. “Fatto in Italia” or the illustrious “fatto a mano a Napoli” are two guarantees of quality and style. In this modern jungle, it is sometimes difficult to find new Italian brands which offer true quality with traditional values. The young shirt-maker Vanacore Napoli is one of those brands which deserve to get out of this jungle.

Story of Vanacore Napoli

Vanacore was founded in 2010 in Portici, a few feet from the Vesuvius, thanks to the Nunziata family vision. The shirt maker springs from a long line of local sartorial tradition, but has nothing to envy from its elders.

The shirts are from illustrious cloth mills such as Monti, Canclini or even Albini. Vanacore’s website is rather cursory but their social media presence – especially on Instagram – is quite on point.

Vanacore’s true values are attention to detail with nothing being left randomly: the shirts have up to 9 hand-stitched steps, that is the moment where the hand replaces a sewing machine.

A white: the epitomes of a men’s wardrobe

This young brands’ ambition is to offer the best quality for both a casual and a more business type wardrobe, may it be with cloths such as popeline, linen and even denim.

Together with the “pasta della Nonna”, traditions in Italy are no joke: Vanacore makes it possible for a young new clientele to be able to gain access to such precious know-how, without hurting one’s wallet.

Before I review the shirt, it is important I take a short detour and mention the cloth I chose: denim

Pictures from Vanacore’s atelier

Brief history of denim and the color indigo

A classic denim fabric

Denim is a twill cotton cloth which uses two distinctive colors in the yarning process. Its’ French origin – “sergé de Nîmes” – is somewhat argued upon, but its’ robustness is legendary. In the 18th century, French weavers try to reproduce a robust cloth named “jeane” – from Genova, Italy – but instead invented sergé de Nimes, thanks to a combination of wool and silk.

The very tight weave is made from a warp originally dyed blue and an unbleached or white weft. The weft threads are interlaced at a 90-degree angle with the other threads. The weave pattern, consists of three weft threads running underneath a warp thread and then a weft thread running over the warp. Shifting this pattern over four threads leads to visible diagonal lines characteristic of twill.

Indigo. The color that characterizes denim, one of the oldest colors still produced. It means "Indian" or "from India". The pigments are native to India and date back to 3300 B.C. A natural extract of indigofera tinctorial plant, indigo is obtained following a particular process of fermentation of the plant's enzymes in water - called indoxyl - which change from yellow to indigo blue when dried.

Indigo flooded the Old Continent following the Indian voyages of the Portuguese navigator Vasco de Gama in 1497. It was only in 1865 the German chemist, Adolf Von Baeyer began to search for the formula for synthesizing indigo. He succeeded in 1883, thus wide spreading its’ use around the world.

Review of the shirt

I discovered Vanacore thanks to – once again – Instagram. After a post featuring Nicola Radano, founder of Spacca Neapolis ties – wearing a blue denim shirt from the Neapolitan brand.

I was immediately won over by the deep blue shade of the shirt and especially by its generous button-down collar. I decide to reach out to the brand and I am informed that for 160 € (including shipping costs for France), it is possible to make a shirt in remote made-to-measure (see my article on Shirtonomy for the explanation). Vanacore's website only reveals the tip of the iceberg: the company offers numerous fabrics, shirt styles and a high-level of personalization.

The ordering process is very simple, as Salvatore Nunziata – one of the founders – was a big help in explaining the different stages and recommendations for the confection of the shirt. This attention to detail is what renders the experience more human and professional.

Here are the characteristics of the shirt.

• The armhole: fitted with a “mappina” – or “spalla camicia” – style shoulder, this is the one the most distinguishable Neapolitan features a shirt can have. the tailoring seam, exalted by manual stitches, allows for a unique and robust confection.

• The collar: I chose a button-down which gives the shirt a more casual vibe. The “rollino” effect is absolutely staggering: a perfect “S” silhouette.

• The yoke: the manual seam of the shoulders resolves the tension in one of the most critical points. An operation that guarantees extreme softness and robustness, this is a sign of a well handcrafted shirt.

• The cuff: these are also hand-made, with 10 stitch-points to the centimeter! A wonderful detail.

• The placket: the hand riveting of the placket represents a touch of great value of which this shirt contains.

• The buttonholes: very neatly handcrafted!

• The buttons: they are in a beautiful brown-shade of mother-of-pearl, white ones would have contrasted too thoroughly with indigo. They are sewed in a “ricamo a giglio” or “zampa di gallina” pattern, this can only be done by hand – a sign of high craftsmanship.

• The sleeve gauntlet or “travetto”: it is a reinforcement in the form of a hook stitch, at the level of the capuchin paw (a paw that starts at the wrist and generally ends in the middle of the forearm). It is executed by hand, which is almost non-existent in ready-to-wear clothing.

• The gusset: a small triangle that joins together the two parts - front and back - of the shirt, guaranteeing its sturdiness.

All these handcrafted stitches render this shirt a truly unique piece.

Regarding the fit, it is very comfortable and allows me to easily execute large and continuous movements. Vanacore considers the fact that denim might shrink a few millimeters after a first wash, so you don't end up with a shirt that is too tight and has lost its original shape.

Conclusion

The Vanacore button-down denim shirt is a unique piece of Italian and especially Neapolitan craftsmanship. This shirt won't remain immaculate for long: with successive washings - always on a delicate program and never in the tumble dryer - it will gain a wonderful patina and will thus reveal the splendor of the indigo denim fabric.

Although denim is a casual cloth by essence, nothing prevents you from wearing this shirt with a tie, the Italian way.
Finally, I would like to point out that Vanacore offers a wide range of styles as well as shirt fabrics, not all of which can be found on their website. Simply contact them - by email or via Instagram - to find out more.

I can only recommend Vanacore to anyone who wants a taste of a real Neapolitan shirt, "fatta a Napoli".

Merz b. Schwanen

Note : we asked the brand for the two garments in exchange for a full review.

Merz b. Schwanen

Made in Germany

Texte : Marcos Eliades
Photos : Merz b Schwanen ; Thomas M.  

20. That is the number of white t-shirts I own in my closet. All meticulously identical: heavy-weight cotton, regular cut and tubular. An obsession born after having watched “American Psycho” where the protagonist, Patrick Bateman, has one of the tidiest closets I’ve ever seen.

The white tee is the corner-stone of a man’s wardrobe. One can wear it all year-round, maybe it be plainly or under a sweater, the combinations are infinite. The search of a “perfect white t-shirt” is a challenging quest, one we have embarked on.

We were looking for tubular t-shirts – with no side seems – made in Europe. The German brand Merz b. Schwanen has stepped up and accepted this challenge, a brand known for its undeniable quality since 1911.

History of Merz b. Schwanen

The Swan brand was founded in 1911 by Balthasar Merz in the Swabian Alps, a mountain range in the Southwest of Germany.

It was not until 2011 that the brand was reborn form its ashes thanks to buyers Gitta and Peter Plotniki. The couple had bought an old henley on a Berlin flea market a while back, it was tubular and had triangular tips at the armpits. They eventually found out it was a rare piece dating from 1911!

Le henley en question

The 1911 henley

The couple was increasingly curious about this henley and retraced its history back to Rudolf Loder, the last textile manufacturer to own the famous « loop-wheel » machines.

Today, Merz b. Schwanen is the only European manufacturer to own so-called TsuriAmi-Ki machines. As explained in our article dedicated to these machines, "tsuri" means « hanging », "ami" « knit » and "ki" « machine ». Indeed, these machines have the particularity of being “suspended”. They are usually hung on wooden beams and knit what resemble large tubular socks. These machines are highly sought after today, other machines used today cannot reach the level of quality obtained by TsuriAmi-Ki machines.

Les fameuses machines « TsuriAmi-Ki »
Famous “TsuriAmi-Ki machines”

REVIEW

For this article we tested two t-shirts from the 215 range, made in Germany on the loopwheel machines mentioned above. The first one is off-white and the second is indigo dyed.

Why an ecru t-shirt you may ask? To honor the t-shirts’ roots, initially an undergarment. This natural color adds real versatility worn alone, under a shirt – buttoned or unbuttoned. It’s a two-yarn, 7,8 Oz weight (200 grams) and made of a 100% organic cotton. A true masterpiece to wear, extremely comfortable and comforting. 

The “215” model has a longer cut than other T-shirts we may usually wear – as it mimics a 1960s cut. We should point out the garment does shrink a few centimeters when washed; nevertheless, we advise you to opt for your usual size. Moreover, Merz b. Schwanen has developed a very comprehensive guide for washing its products. The brand has also developed a special non-aggressive detergent to wash clothes in complete serenity.

“Aujourd’hui, Merz b. Schwanen est le seul fabricant européen à posséder des machines dites TsuriAmi-Ki.

Today, Merz b. Schwanen is the only European manufacturer to own so-called TsuriAmi-Ki machines. ”

A splash of indigo

There are many garments dyed with indigo. Tubular t-shirts, much less. Merz b. Schwanen has teamed up with Blue Print Amsterdam to make this dream a reality. This creative design studio, obsessed with denim and indigo, was created in the Netherlands in 2006 by Celia Geraedts. The Studio was born after its’ founder had returned from a trip to Japan where she discovered the ancient craft of natural indigo-dyeing. A prestigious know-how that allowed Blue Print Amsterdam to collaborate with Levi’s Red Tab, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Levi’s Made & Crafted, Frans Boone Store or Asahi, a Japanese sneakers brand with vulcanized soles.

The indigo-dyed t-shirt is a real marvel to glance at. Once worn, we feel part of a century-old craft, a real honor. We had never worn one before, the t-shirt has a rougher touch than its ecru counterpart but remains absolutely pleasant to wear. Indigo t-shirts irrigate the Japanese market, making them much harder to find in Europe, even more so made in Europe and tubular!

Fun fact, indigo is actually first green, when it comes out of the dyeing pot. After that, it turns to the deep indigo. The indigo color is made from the leaves of the Indigofera suffruticosa. The highest quality you can use to treat these textiles.

It has to be noted, the t-shirt will achieve a beautiful patina after successive washes, like a good old pair of jeans.

This indigo t-shirt can become your go-to t-shirt: it is extremely simple to integrate to your wardrobe rotation and will give a beautiful look to your outfits: «a splash of color». 

Futhemore the brand offers countless designs and fits. A detailed grid makes it possible for anyone to find what they are looking for.

View fullsize

Sometimes, one does not need to state the obvious. Merz b. Schwanen’s products fall into this category.

Crockett & Jones - Harvard cordovan penny loafers

Note : we asked the brand for a discount in exchange for a full review.

Crockett & Jones

Harvard cordovan penny loafers

“One of a pair of coverings for your feet, usually made of a strong material such as leather, with a thick leather or plastic sole and usually a heel". This is how the Cambridge Dictionary defines the word "shoe". There is no equivalent of the French word “soulier” in the English language, perhaps the expression “dress shoe” might convey best the sens of this fine word. “Soulier” – now scarcely used – first appeared in the French language in the 13th century. Over the centuries, the term semantically found its way into everyday expressions for instance, "être dans ses petits souliers" means "to be uncomfortable or find oneself in an embarrassing situation"; " mettre son pied dans les souliers de tout le monde " refers to the fact of interfering in everyone's business. Also, "n’avoir pas de souliers" is the symbol of a state of complete destitution; finally, "mourir dans ses souliers" is the result of a sudden death. The term "souliers” seems to be intimately linked to the moods and habits of a society, as if to describe it fundamentally. I remember the first time I preferred to use the word "souliers" for a "pair of shoes". It was 5 years ago, my father offered me my first pair of Crockett & Jones. A brogue derby in brown grained leather and a rubber sole. The "Pembroke" model, for connoisseurs. Year after year, my collection grew and so did my ultimate desire: to acquire a pair in cordovan leather, the famous "cordovan shell". A leather from the horse's hindquarters that is less than 0.5 m2 wide. Then I discovered the "Harvard" model in cordovan from Crockett & Jones, a completely “Ivy”-looking soulier. 

Let’s have a closer look. 

Crockett & Jones, Northampton and Paris: a winning trio

James Crockett and Charles Jones founded Crockett & Jones in 1879 in Northampton, the cradle of English bootmaking. However, it was not until 1998 that the first French boutique - the second in the world after Jermyn Street in London - opened its doors in Paris, at 14 Rue Chauveau-Lagarde, a stone's throw from the Madeleine. The 160m2 store displayed the double "Hand Grade" and "Main Line" collection.

Thomas and I meet up at the Madeleine store, on a beautiful Autumn day. A muffled atmosphere transpires as soon as we open the door, we understand we are entering a "club". The dark brown leather armchairs and sofas echo the beautiful woodwork transpiring an authentic British store from the past. Shoes are everywhere. Icing on the cake, there really is something for everyone: Oxfords, derbies, moccasins with monk-straps, boots, tassel loafers, penny loafers and even slippers. Crockett & Jones embodies this Europeanized "British phlegm": the house even dresses James Bond and his French equivalent, OSS 117 !

The “Harvard" penny loafer: cordovan at your feet

I walk to the back of the store where the coveted model is displayed: the "Harvard" penny loafer in Cordovan leather. Having already a pair of penny loafers from Crockett & Jones - the "Boston" model in grained brown leather - I ask to try on the same size, 6.5 UK. These two moccasins have an identical "last" - the shape of the tip of the shoe - the 314. A rounder shape than its 341 or 375 counterparts for example.

The cordovan used by Crockett & Jones is from the American Horween Tannery, founded in 1905 in Chicago. Very few tanneries in the world produce cordovan - etymologically, "cordovan" comes from the Andalusian city "Cordoba", the first place of manufacture of this horse leather already in the sixteenth century - Horween is undoubtedly best known for its dark purple-brown beautiful cordovan color.

The Harvard penny loafer is of Goodyear-welt construction, has a leather sole and an unlined interior. The pair is remarkably comfortable from the very first try, like indoor slippers! No future blisters will ruin my feet and that is an important point to consider. Note however that Cordovan leather will only loosen up a little, so it is crucial to feel comfortable from the start.

I wear penny loafers quite frequently, I don't think they are exclusively reserved for formal wear. That is why I chose an outfit with a pair of white jeans, cream socks, an ecru turtleneck and a Teba jacket. The jeans and socks are from Uniqlo, the ecru sweater from Danish brand Andersen Andersen - teaser - and the Prince of Wales Teba jacket from Justo Gimeno through Beige Habilleur. With an outfit like this one, I wanted to try on subtle degrees of white. Also, when one wishes to wear a white top and bottom, one just has to choose two different shades of white, hence avoiding the "full-white outfit".

The dark brownish Cordovan leather color - sometimes tending towards purple - makes it possible to effortlessly combine this type of shoe in any outfit. Cordovan is a rare and therefore expensive leather. A pair like this one will thus be "an investment piece". I simply advise you to try them on before purchase to see how they feel on your feet. The “Harvard” could easily be the quintessential cordovan penny loafers one has been seeking all along.

My personal experience leads me to say that cordovan “souliers” have no equivalent. Eventually, I prefer to use the word "souliers" rather than simply “shoes" when describing beautiful, well-made pieces that last over time. Harvard penny loafers fall into these categories.

After all, doesn’t James Bonds’ footwear deserve to be called “souliers” ?

My routine for caring cordovan shoes – or “souliers”

Cordovan shoes are sacred to some...Much has been written and said about this beautiful horsehide leather.

My routine revolves around 3 steps:

• I start by brushing the shoes, removing dirt and dust. A genuine horsehair brush is preferable. I usually repeat this step continuously and stop here as cordovan leather does not need much maintenance: regular brushing is enough to maintain it effectively. However, always use shoetrees inside your shoes to guarantee their shape and longevity.

• I only apply the Cordovan Special Saphire Cream very rarely and very sparingly. Otherwise, to make the pair shine, here is a little trick: I use old nylon tights and I rub the whole pair following a circular movement.

• To remove small scratches that might appear, I use a somewhat shamanic instrument: the famous deer bone. One simply has to rub the bone on the surfaces to be treated or roll it on the front of the shoe. I find it effective but you can of course do without it, no doubt that this device contributes in the whole “Cordovan folklore”. For such an accessory, consider 20 to 30 Euros. Mine is from the Scandinavian eshop with the unpronounceable name: Skoaktiebolaget.

If you notice the appearance of a whitish substance after a few wears, don't worry! It is a part of the liquor that breathes out of the leather during the natural flexing of the shoe and its wear. This substance can be easily cleaned with a dry or damp cloth, then brushed: nothing more!

However, I advise you not to wear your shoes in wet or rainy weather, even though the leather is very resistant. Cordovan leather acquires a beautiful patina over time, just let it do its job.

Yarmouth Oilskins

Note: At our request, Yarmouth Oilskins agreed to send us the 2 pieces that you will discover in this article.

Yarmouth Oilskins

Workwear made in England

I remember the first time my eyes landed on a Yarmouth Oilskins label. It was in a thrift store. The second time was in Douglas Gunn's excellent book - Vintage Menswear - in which rare pieces from the store's personal collection were displayed, including a yellow Yarmouth fisherman's parka. The third time, a menswear designer friend told me about it during a conversation we had about CC41. My curiosity had been aroused, the brand appealed to me aesthetically. After some research on Instagram, I discovered the brand still exists and is well developed in Japan ; it is distributed under the name of Yarmo and mainly focuses on workwear. Today a major aspect in menswear Yarmouth had been keen on displaying for years now.

Let’s have a closer look.

HISTORY

On February 1st 1898, Johnson and Sons, as it was called, became a limited company. Three days later, four members of the company joined with other local businessmen to form Yarmouth Stores Ltd. 

The company opened stores in ports throughout the United Kingdom and before World War II broke, employed over 1,200 people; the majority of whom were machinists making overalls, uniforms, blouses and other work clothes. 

At the height of the herring fishing industry, Yarmouth stores were open until 11:00 p.m., when young Scottish girls arrived to equip themselves for the arduous task of sorting, gutting and packing fish. Oilcloth skirts, aprons and boots were a must. Between the 1930s and 1950s, Yarmouth stores went through a difficult period. The fishing industry declined dramatically throughout the World Wars. The Wars resulted in the closure of many of the brand's stores, which never reopened.

In the 1960s, natural gas was discovered off the coast of Norfolk and a new industry developed rapidly. Yarmouth Stores responded quickly by providing Great Yarmouth's ships and crews with functional clothing, which it still does today.

At the dawn of the 21st century, the family-owned business responded to a changing marketplace while remaining true to its heritage. The twenty machinists at the plant cover all aspects of functional apparel production, allowing the brand to be "sold throughout the world".

We are pleased to present two pieces of the Yarmouth Oilskins wardrobe: a work jacket and a pair of ecru work trousers. 

REVIEW

The driver jacket bus became popular in the 1930s. It is a short jacket, designed to be worn with matching trousers. Yarmouth revisits this heritage by offering it with a shirt collar, a shorter cut at the waist, square silhouette and a Corozo fish-eye button closure from Courtney & Co, a very good English button-maker

The jacket has generous chest flap pockets. At the shoulders, two deep pleats for easy movement complete the look. Made from 100% unlined cotton twill*, the jacket is made in Great Yarmouth, Great Britain. 

*The brand is transparent on the matter, the fabric is not woven in England but the finishing stages are

The English jacket is more fitted than its French counterpart – as seen everywhere in the streets in Paris and around the world – but remains perfect for Fall layering. The fabric is very durable but not rough, as Yarmouth washes all their jackets making them comfortable to wear. 

As for the ecru trousers, they are one of the many "work suits" made by Yarmouth stores. Each trade had a specific suit adapted to its needs. The chef's suit, steward's suit and painter's suit are all featured in the 1905 Yarmouth Stores catalog. These trousers have a straight casual cut with deep double pleats at the top. They feature a corozo button fly, wide belt loops, and two deep front and back pockets. All of which is of course made in Great Britain. 

Let's say it once and for all: white trousers go with everything. Period. Some people are reluctant to wear them in the rain, which is quite understandable. Fortunately, nowadays we have washing machine and extreme stain removers!

These trousers are high-waisted, which is very pleasant and comfortable to wear. The cotton is also worth the detour: beautiful and sturdy !

This is the look we’d combine these trousers and jacket. A Heimat wool turtleneck sweater and a pair Clark's Desert boots with orange over-the calf wool socks. 

This outfit is certainly one of the most workwear we have done so far, but it has the merit of highlighting beautiful materials and comfortable pieces. 

Yarmouth Oilskins is a brand that deserves to be more widely known in France, some pieces are simple but ingenious at the same time. In an industry consistently reaching for technicality, Yarmouth Oilskins chooses to highlight certain materials from the past that are worth rediscovering today.