Fortela - Johnny jeans made in Japan

Note: At our request, Fortela agreed to offer us the jeans that you will discover in this article.

Fortela is an Italian brand founded by Alessandro Squarzi, undoubtedly one of the most photographed men in the world of menswear. The brand’s style is closely linked to that of its founder. What is less known is that Alessandro Squarzi is also a great collector. His extensive vintage archives are a constant source of inspiration to create Fortela clothing with an Italian and Japanese touch.

He recently released a book on this subject called The Squarzi Archive. A visual showcase of its collection made up of more than 6,000 pieces, mainly American clothing.

BOOK AVAILABLE HERE

Fortela is a brand that we follow a lot, we have visited the Milanese store several times and we already own a few other clothes from the brand.

For this article we wanted to talk about the Johnny jeans which are part of the Made in Japan collection. They are made in Okayama from a 14 oz 100% organic cotton “medium” blue selvedge canvas. 

This fabric is manufactured on traditional Toyoda shuttle looms. This gives it small irregularities which become more pronounced over time.

Alessandro Squarzi à Okayama

If you are looking for jeans that take on the characteristics of Levi's jeans from the 60s, this Johnny model from Fortela might interest you.

The 60s and 70s are still very popular today because the volume, cut, assembly and fabric used by Levi's during these years are still very contemporary.

Unsurprisingly it is therefore sewn in “single stitch”, a characteristic assembly of the early 1970s.

These Johnny jeans feature a slim silhouette - but without being too slim. It has enough volume in the thighs to be comfortable without being too baggy. The leg line is not too tight at the bottom, it is quite straight. A good balance for our taste.

In terms of waist size, it is normal, neither too low nor too high. It is comfortable and fits well on the lower back.

historical construction detail, the fabric helps create tension which better holds the rivet in place (you can see it coming out of the rivet)

We really like the hand and texture of this fabric, it gives the impression of being robust and at the same time comfortable to wear. Its natural elasticity is almost comparable to a canvas that contains elastane. It is therefore not cardboardy but nevertheless has a good drape. By the way « Fortela », derived from the slang “Tela Forte” which means “strong fabric” if translated literally.

The jeans came with a central pleat which looked great. As the fabric does not contain polyester, the effect fades after a few wears. It's up to you to revive it with an iron or not !

You will note that our jeans have not yet been altered at the bottom of the leg. It comes with a good amount of extra length for people over 6’9” (1m90)

In conclusion, these Fortela jeans are aimed at both the connoisseur and the novice: simple Japanese jeans with American influences.  We recommend.

By the way, Alessandro Squarzi and the Fortela Team will be in Paris at the Merci pop-up, at The Appartement Merci at 109 Boulevard Beaumarchais 75003, from Friday 11th of October to Saturday 12th, go meet them !

The Anthology Tweed Herringbone Jacket - A Tweed jacket with a "softer aesthetic"

Reader's note: The Tweed jacket featured in this article was purchased directly from the brand's website by mutual agreement with The Anthology.

At the 95th Academy Awards, British actor Bill Nighy - nominated in the Best Actor category - dazzled the red carpet with his well-cut tuxedo. The media asked him the traditional question "who are you wearing? - meaning "which designer dresses you?" - Bill replied: "some cool guys from Hong Kong, The Anthology". The (small) world of cinema discovered The Anthology. We had talked about the Hong Kong label two years ago, with their flagship product, the Lazyman jacket, a hybrid half-blazer half-cardigan. A brand that is somewhat unknown in France, but well worth a closer look. While Lazyman is an integral part of my wardrobe, their Tweed jacket recently made its debut.

Let’s take a closer look.

From a meeting comes the love of a style

A few years after our article on the Lazyman jacket, I had the pleasure of meeting Buzz Tang, co-founder of The Anthology, in Paris over coffee and viennoiseries.

He was wearing a beautiful light beige waxed cotton jacket - of his own brand, of course - and I immediately understood that Buzz was dressing for real pleasure. A polo shirt, jeans and Crockett & Jones loafers, from his collaboration with The Anthology, completed his outfit.

In this interview, Buzz told me about the beginnings of the brand, and the trials and tribulations he faced. Thanks to these, he and his tailoring partner Andy Chong have built a solid reputation in the world of bespoke and made-to- measure suits.

So naturally, I wanted to try on a jacket from the brand's wardrobe.

An essential Tweed jacket for winter

Tweed is the queen of winter fabrics. We've written about Tweed at length in our columns, but it's worth remembering that this dense, strong-handed wool originated in Scotland, a region we're particularly fond of. Tweed is therefore a perfect ally for the autumn/winter seasons, as its tight weave keeps the body warm while providing armor against wind and cold. Tweed is even hydrophobic, keeping you - within reason - fairly dry in the event of a light shower.

The pattern of this jacket, a black chevron on a dominant gray background, is a classic of the men's wardrobe.

ZOOM ON THE HERRINGBONE PATTERN ON THE ANTHOLOGY JACKET. IMAGE FROM THE AHTOLOGY WEBSITE

Classic doesn't mean boring. For a long time, I looked for reasons not to wear Tweed. Too warm, too rough, too British, too country...the superlatives were endless.

And then I got interested in the history of Tweed, its weaving, its origin and its usefulness.

The Tweed used for our jacket is moderately heavy in weight. We don't have the exact weight available, but feel free to write to us in the comments of this article or on Instagram, we'll ask the brand.

Tweed has all the qualities needed to face the cold of autumn and winter.

A "softer aesthetic" jacket with English and Ivy influences

What is soft tailoring? The concept was born several years ago when Vicenzo Attolini, a cutter at Rubinacci, decided to remove the padding from the shoulder of a jacket to create a "spalla camicia" sleeve - meaning "a jacket shoulder like that of a shirt", judged more natural and unstructured.

The term "soft tailoring" doesn't mean much these days. Tailors often offer both: two customers dressing in the same house may come out with two diametrically opposed suits. That's why Buzz Tang speaks of a "softer aesthetic" - a rounder, softer line, without going overboard.

Starting with the lapels. The notch is low, unlike the Italian, which is higher, flattering the build. During a chat over coffee, Buzz told me that it took him a long time to develop the perfect notch. At least, the one he felt was the most balanced. I can confirm that this low cuff is very popular and lends a certain retro feel. It's rare to find cuffs like this in a made-to-order offer.

Then there are the shoulders. They structure the silhouette, enveloping it without making it square. There's no padding in the construction, but the special feature of The Anthology shoulder is its extension. In fact, it's slightly longer than what you'd expect from other brands we've reviewed. I find the shoulder line elegant and a real nod to English craftsmanship.

The jacket is fully lined - which makes sense for a fall/winter piece - and features a fun detail: patch pockets with flaps. When I asked Buzz why he made this hybrid choice, he replied that he wanted to pay subtle homage to Ivy style. This detail makes the piece less dressy and may not appeal to some, but it has the merit of offering something new not seen elsewhere.

The jacket comes with the buttonholes unfinished, so you can choose your ideal length with your trusted alteration specialist.

This review of my The Anthology Tweed jacket is also a reminder that the "made in China" label is not always synonymous with poor quality. On the contrary, there are high-quality workshops offering well-made garments. Buzz and Andy are in constant contact with their Hong Kong workshop.

How to size The Anthology Tweed jacket?

Normally! Opt for your usual size, below the size chart. Feel free to ask the great customer service on the website or via Instagram.

IMAGE FROM THE ANTHOLOGY SIZE CHART. SOURCE: THE ANTHOLOGY WEBSITE

A Tweed jacket that's inevitably informal

As mentioned earlier, Tweed is a wool that lends a rather casual look. For this reason, here's how I wear this jacket.

I’m wearing a John Smedley turtleneck in navy merino wool, Uniqlo U selvedge jeans and Alden penny loafers.

Of course, there's nothing to stop you wearing a jacket in this material with a tie.

Ready for the autumn/winter season?

The answer is yes. A real suit of armor will protect you from the cold with taste and peace of mind.

Available here.

The Everdon from Crown Northampton: a top-of-the-range sneaker

Crown Northampton

The Handstitch collection: The Everdon

On January 21, 1956, rockabilly singer Carl Perkins made history in 2 minutes and 14 seconds. He had just released the worldwide hit "Blue Suede Shoes", which became a Rock'n'Roll anthem. Elvis, The Beatles and Johnny Cash successively offered their own versions. Blue velvet shoes are not common. That's why Crown Northampton, Northampton's most Rock’n’Roll shoe manufacturer, offers them.

Let’s take a closer look.

The Hand-Stitch collection from Crown Northampton

The everdon in action

This high-end collection is inspired by bespoke, hand-crafted shoes. The challenge is to offer a high level of finishing in a dress sneaker.

Indeed, it may seem contradictory. However, it's enough to take note of the details of this special pair. Starting with the presence of cork, hand-filled. It's the first time we've seen a pair of sneakers made in this way. Yes, the last time we saw cork-filled shoes was at J.M. Weston during a visit last May. Cork forms a solid filling along the entire spine of the sneaker and provides comfort, stability, as well as good moisture-wicking throughout the sneaker. Also worth noting is the use of leather for the counter (rather than plastic or other bonded materials). In addition to that, there's vegetable tanning, hand-sewn stitches - especially those at the back of the counter - and a rubber sole made from hevea milk or lactae heveae, which develops a patina over time with wear. One characteristic of this rubber sole is its flexibility; it's quite spongey and durable at the same time. We haven't tried it before, so we don't know how it will hold up over time, but Crown Northampton assures us of its robustness.

Furthermore, the British brand offers a plethora of leathers and soles for this unique model. You can choose a Horween cordovan color #8, like a very famous American brand...

The model I'm wearing is in deer leather, an extremely supple and unusual leather for sneakers.

A (very) high-end sneaker

The best brand for sneakers in the world ?

 Above, we'll let you discover the video by Rose Anvil where he disassembles another pair of shoes from the Northampton brand.

On our part, this further confirmed our opinion on this pair. While it's easy to see that the pair is both glued and stitched without taking it apart, you can also observe the entirety of the work done. For instance, the presence of cork between the rubber sole and the leather. A multitude of details that largely account for the substantial price of this pair.

How does this model size?

Like the Artizan model, this model fits true to size. I'm wearing 6.5 UK here.

How does one wear the Everdon?

A dress sneaker is a stylistic peril. While the sneaker-suit combo should be avoided at all costs, Gianni Agnelli - as is often the case - proposed several outfits with this type of sneaker and sartorial trousers, he was always on point.

Nevertheless, I opted for a pair of white five-pocket pants, a grey t-shirt and a black Bleu de Chine jacket.

 I can finally say I've got my Blue Suede Shoes.

Assisi Bespoke Tailors: the rising star of Korean tailoring

"Tutte le strade portano a Roma" - all roads lead to Rome, Caput Mundi. No fewer than eight consular roads linked the Roman capital to the provinces: via Aurelia, Cassia, Flaminia, Salaria, Tiburtina, Casilina, Appia and Ostiense. These arteries still exist today, some modernized and others symbolizing the remains of one of the greatest empires of all time. The influence of this empire's culture, language and customs is latent in modern Italy. Latin has given way to Italian, cobblestones to freeways and senators' togas to suits. Italy's best ambassador is surely its craftsmanship, which many envy and draw inspiration from. And so, in 2020, a brilliant newcomer to the sartorial world showcased his know-how inherited from Italy. Kim Min Soo, a Korean master tailor for over 15 years, founded Assisi Bespoke Tailors in Seoul and set out to conquer Europe. 

Let’s have a closer look at this Korean tailoring rising-star, making us want to wear patterned jackets. 

The story of a Parisian encounter 

In September 2022, we met members of The Decorum Bangkok at the opening of the new Jacques Solovière boutique at 108 boulevard du Cherche-Midi in the VIème district. Ball Warong, visionary co-founder of the Thai store featuring cutting-edge brands, agreed to take part in our Readers' Attire feature. On the day of the shoot, Ball was wearing a jacket by Florentine house Liverano, but when we met, he told me about a Korean tailor with a promising career: Assisi. Regular trunkshows at The Decorum have helped Assisi gain a well-deserved attention and reputation. 

One year later, in June 2023, Ball and his very stylish business associate Guy (@master_keynes) came to Paris to support the young Korean tailor in his first trunkshow. It was only natural that we - Thomas, Mathieu and I - should revisit Ball and meet Kim Dabin (@kimdabin), the young tailor representing Assisi. What a meeting! I was immediately fascinated by the suits, a cross between Milanese and Florentine influences. 

We had to feature Assisi on our website. I decided to commission a jacket.

A few months later, on October 6 and 7, Assisi returned to Paris for another trunkshow. Kim welcomed us in a Parisian apartment rented for the occasion in the Marais district, and we were able to chat and take the photos you'll discover in this article. 

A word about Kim: he's always dressed soberly and tastefully. On this day, he wore a very elegant tennis-striped suit in dark tones. 

Assisi: Italian influence with Korean flair 

Master tailor Kim Min Soo is self-taught, but learned the art of tailoring in Milan from Paulo Rentini. The Korean team comprises six tailors, all trained by master tailor Kim Min Soo, and a manager. Assisi's offer is twofold: bespoke and the less expensive made-to-measure. While grande-mesure had already been covered by an English blog, demi-mesure had not. So Kim and I agreed to make a made-to-measure jacket in the fabric of my choice. 

I wanted an informal jacket and a fabric with a certain allure. I naturally turned to a gunclub pattern, a fabric featuring a succession of small squares punctuated by polychrome lines. It's a deadstock fabric from Drapers Italy. This means these precise colors are hard to find, which makes it a unique jacket. The photos in this article are worth more than a thousand words. 

Assisi bears an Italian name - in homage to the eponymous Umbria town and the sartorial Italian savoir-faire - but injects signature details into the construction of its jackets. One of these, for example, is the slightly turned shoulder that facilitates mobility, as well as a slightly pronounced cigarette. The more extended shoulders are a signature mark, and help to shape the build, thanks also to the high armhole. Surely, Assisi didn't invent this, but incorporates it with precision when taking measurements, this is highly appreciated.

A Korean jacket on Parisian shoulders 

I'm particularly fond of the innovative approach from Asian sartorial houses which we have covered on Les Indispensables. This is undoubtedly because they are not bound by a specific style or convention, and so decide to take various elements from this or that country and turn them into something else. The low lapel notch or the slightly wider shoulders are all elements that Assisi has adopted and perpetuated for their "house cut". Once again, I'd like to emphasize that they have not invented anything, but have made their own all these elements shaping the sartorial universe. It's not a question of deconstructing the jacket to know exactly how it's made from every angle, but more of appreciating the final result. And we truly love the final result.

A personal attraction in the jacket's rendering is the rather drooping shoulders. Having naturally this morphology, I find that this detail makes the sartorial composition more natural and less "costumy-like", in the sense that it becomes one with the wearer. You only have to pass through Kim's hands when taking measurements to understand the care taken to achieve this final fit. The cut is close to the body, emphasizing the silhouette. The jacket marks the waist without constricting it. 

Coincidentally, British brand Drake's was also in the capital for a pop-up at the same time as the Assisi trunkshow - you can read our article in French here – and I was delighted to receive compliments on my jacket from all the Drake's salespeople! It made a definite impact, proving that this piece doesn't leave anyone indifferent. 

A jacket for every day 

Definitely the jacket I get the most compliments on, it's become a wardrobe essential. The gunclub pattern is perfect for casual wear, but can also be paired with a shirt, tie and loafers. 

Assisi's tour de force is to create a simple, elegant garment with a certain panache. An indispensable. 

Bonus: when receiving my piece Mathieu took the opportunity to try out some of their jackets samples, the result in images below.

Artizan Belgian Slipper - Crown Northampton

Crown Northampton

Artizan Belgian Slipper

One of the leading shoe manufacturers in Northampton has been making a comeback for several seasons now. Crown Northampton continues to impress us with their innovative stylistic proposition and centuries-old craftsmanship. We've already spoken twice about this English brand, and we're revisiting it today with models we are particularly fond of.

Let's discover the Artizan Belgian slipper from the Jazz collection.

A slipper unlike any other

Perhaps you're familiar with the Belgian loafer, a shoe that's halfway between an indoor slipper and a deconstructed moccasin. The ambivalence of this piece lies in the fact that it can be worn both indoors and outdoors. Indeed, the usually leather sole wears out as it hits the pavement, but this OVNI calcéophile doesn't leave passers-by or its wearer indifferent.

Having already owned this model, specially ordered from Crown two years ago, and paying tribute to the traditional Belgian loafer with a smooth leather ribbon on the vamp, I wanted to try something more streamlined.

The English house's "Artizan" model addresses the issue of the sometimes fragile sole by offering a Vibram rubber outsole. This ensures greater durability and longevity. Not to mention the comfort it brings to the feet! A leather sole can sometimes prove cumbersome due to its rigidity - even after many wears - unlike a rubber sole, which more readily relieves the arch of the foot. At least, that's the observation I've made.

But then, why wear this type of hybrid shoe? It's very enjoyable to wear Belgian loafers outdoors, especially when they're made of leather. Crown Northampton offers this model in black calf, in brown Janus calf from the English tannery C F Stead in Leeds, one of the best for this leather, as well as in suede grey and white.

The leather - instead of the usual canvas for example - gives the shoe a more outdoor wearable aspect due to the natural resistance of leather.

Nevertheless, I have two reservations about this model.

The first is that the leather - though beautiful - is quite matte for my taste. I would have liked it to be naturally slightly glossy, but this is a request I can meet myself by polishing them.

The second is the lack of a heel on the rubber sole. Indeed, the Artizan is primarily an indoor model and does not require a particular heel to tread about one's dwelling, no matter its size. However, a heel would have given the piece a more formal, desirable aspect. Be that as it may, it's likely easier this way to pair it with a more casual outfit and will convince you to do the same.

Finally, let's add the option to choose from three different sole colors. Also remember that all Crown Northampton models are offered as MTO, or made-to-order. The British brand therefore does not keep stock. Each order thus paves the way for rationalized and thoughtful production. This could explain the fluctuating wait time of 9 to 12 weeks. But with Crown Northampton, the praise of slowness prevails.

How does this model fit?

This is always a tricky question to answer precisely. Both Crown Northampton and I would answer the same way: this model fits true to size. In other words, go for your usual size. Note that, like any leather shoe model, the Artizan will stretch over time.

How to wear the Artizan Belgian slipper?

This model is easily adaptable. Here, I'm wearing Herringbone twill fatigue pants, a Bugatti blue work jacket, and a black Uniqlo U t-shirt. The divisive style of these shoes calls for caution and simplicity in an outfit.

Let's underline that this model is perfectly wearable in winter, simply favor wearing socks.

So here's the perfect alternative to traditional boat shoes and other espadrilles. There's no doubt that once you try them on, you'll be convinced by this essential footwear.

The Colhay's luxurious cashmere & silk blend polo: a piece every man needs this summer

When Colhay's founder Ronnie Chiu invited us to try out his cashmere and silk polo shirts for summer, we were delighted to accept. After wearing the brand's legendary heavy-weight cardigan this Winter, we felt the urge to wrap ourselves in more summery materials, always with taste as with Colhay’s.

A luxurious polo shirt and a splash of Riviera allure

Let's face it, the price tag on this magical blend may deter some. Listed at €400 - £345 on the brand's website - this tennis polo is a real investment piece.

But when we look at the details, we understand and appreciate even more this iconic piece of a man's Summer wardrobe. This polo draws it’s inspiration from pre-1950s tennis tops and boasts longer short sleeves and a wider collar. What great details! We're always concerned when these two points are too short, and we continually fall into the pitfall of them being ill-proportioned.

This cashmere silk yarn "is the finest and most luxurious in the world", as Colhay's puts it. It's woven by the experts in the field, Italy's Cariaggi Lanificio. The result is an extremely soft, silky and lightweight hand. Cashmere in the middle of summer? The blend of silk and cashmere makes the polo much lighter than if it had been 100% cashmere. The silk gives the piece a light, airy feel, ideal for warm weather.

Densely knitted and entirely shaped and bound by hand - unlike most polo shirts, which are cut and sewn - this is another appreciable detail that makes this polo luxurious.

The collar is in Milano stitch, which gives it a certain robustness in relation to the rest of the body, so that a jacket, for example, can be worn without the collar flattening out - as we tried. The collar is not rigid, however, making it a rather casual piece all the same.

On the collar fastening side, the polo has three brown horn buttons - Ronnie's personal wish, because for him, this makes the piece more streamlined and discreet than if he'd opted for white mother-of-pearl. A choice we particularly appreciate, as Colhay's philosophy is in perfect symbiosis with the choice of materials for each garment they skilfully produce.

Another detail we like: the short sleeves are longer than normal, reaching 5-7 cm above the elbow and covering most of the arm. This renders the wearer more confident in not showing his arms, something we sometimes struggle with !

How do we wear the Colhay's tennis polo?

We opted for an outfit that straddles the line between formal and informal. Gray fresco trousers, a seersucker Teba jacket by Justo Gimeno, Belgian Loafers by Crown Northampton and white socks for a Fifties feel.

We like to wear the polo tucked in for a more streamlined look, but the tightened ribbing at the bottom allows the piece to be worn untucked as well, keeping it’s shape.

A must-have this summer, whether you're in Paris or Positano.

Available here.

Rowing Blazers x Harry's Bar New York

"Please take me to Sank Roo Doe Noo" allows any American passing through Paris to find the address of the legendary Harry's New York Bar. Founded on November 26, 1911 - Thanksgiving Day - in Paris and nestled in the 2nd arrondissement at 5 Rue Daunou, its walls have seen the likes of Hemingway, Humphrey Bogart and Coco Chanel, and the creation of several cocktails still served and known the world over, such as the "Bloody Mary" (dating from 1921), the "Side Car" (from 1931) and "Le Pétrifiant" (1964), which is said to have caused the drinker to collapse after one glass, such is the strength of its blend of different alcohols!

We were able to sample Hemingway's favorite cocktail, the "Bloody Mary", and warmly recommend this pleasant Franco-American landmark: in the evening, head to the basement for a piano performance - atmosphere guaranteed! 

So much has been said and written about Harry's Bar - whether in Florence or Venice (try their "Bellini", it was invented there!) - we wanted to talk about clothes. Harry's Bar New York has teamed up with New York brand Rowing Blazers to offer a range of merchandise, available here.

Rowing Blazers was founded by Jack Carlson, author of the eponymous book and former rowing champion. An archaeologist by trade, he founded Rowing Blazers with the aim of promoting beauty, and makes a point of collaborating with mythical and offbeat brands and institutions.

As a member of "The International Bar Flies (I.B.F.)" founded by the pioneers of Harry's Bar New York - Harry MacElhone & O.O.McIntyre - it was only logical for him to collaborate with the legendary bar and propose a line of clothing. This secret club even has rules! Here they are:

1. The I.B.F. is a secret and sacred fraternal organization devoted to the up life and downfall of serious drinkers.

2. Members must buy if not at the moment, sometime. What is a decade among friends?

3. Any members of the I.B.F. caught cutting out paper dolls after a bad night must hand in their resignations.

4. Those that come to the Trap at 5 A.M. and are able to play a ukulele without rehearsal are eligible for life membership.

5. Members bumping their chin on the bar rail in the act of falling are suspended for ten days.

6. Members who have the idea they can wallop Dempsey are notified that there is a plastic surgeon on duty night and day close to the traps.

7. It is respectfully suggested to Bar Flies that they do their weeping in the toilet, and also bring their own mops.

8. Those seeing cerise cats with purple ears should keep it to themselves. Traps are not zoological gardens.

9. Those sniffling about “the best little women in the world” and starving for another round must pay for it.

10. Remember, nothing is on the house but the roof.

11. Those who decide drinking is a menace are welcome at all times but should just keep quiet.

12. And remember that there are a lot of boys in the rear who might want something.

13. Backslappin after six drinks be tempered with mercy remember, I.B.F.’s have false teeth.

14. Any members breaking any of the above rule will be penalized drinks to all I.B.F.’s present.

We've fallen for the t-shirt with its print of two clashing flies, the symbol of Harry's Bar. The t-shirt is made of thick cotton with a pleasant hand feel, and manufactured in Portugal. Available here.

The Guayabera from Burgos Madrid, a Summer staple

In October 2022, during a trip to Madrid, we visited Burgos, the blouse of the King of Spain. On this occasion, we ordered a Teba - find our article here - and a Guayabera. With the weather and the heat approaching, it was time to show you the final result.

Burgos, a Madrid institution

"This is the model of Guayabera that Hemingway wore, he loved this shirt" says Carmen, the niece of the owner of Burgos. This particular shirt takes its name from the four pockets: two on the chest and two on the waist.

The burgos guayabera

Worn especially in Latin America and seen as an anti-colonial symbol par excellence, it was created by the quenettier farmers - guaya in Spanish - who had sewn several pockets on their shirts in order to maximize the harvest and be able to carry more fruit.

ERNEST HEMINGWAY WEARING HIS GUAYABERA from burgos IN 1957

(COLORIZED PHOTO, TAKEN BY THE great PHOTOGRAPHER YOUSUF KARSH, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED)

Guayaberas aficionados are countless, from Fidel Castro to Roger Moore or even Prince Harry, this shirt breathes Summer and carefree. It is mostly cut in a white linen/cotton blend and can be either long or short sleeved.

Recently, the king on vacation wore a Guayabera shirt from the house. "He is our ambassador, in a way, of the exceptional Spanish know-how," says Carmen.

King Felipe wearing his guayabera from burgos on vacation

Ordering a Guayabera from Burgos Madrid

It is possible to buy a Guayabera in ready-to-wear on the website as it is possible to make one to your measurements. 

While visiting the charming store, it was a good idea to have my measurements taken by the tailor in person. 

chest measurements being taken

arm measurement

neck measurement

yoke measurement

Not all the photos of the measuring process are shown here. The measurements were taken by the tailor and include: neck, chest, waist, back, total length of the shirt, shoulders and sleeve length (Note: you can also order your Guayabera by filling in your measurements directly on the brand's website).

Once the measurements are recorded - by hand! - the order is validated. 1 month later - delays may vary - I received my Guayabera.

I chose a classic white cotton/linen fabric with long sleeves. It is an eminently summery shirt and is worn as such. 

I'm wearing it here with green linen pants and white Sebago leather docksides. The Guayabera is a perfect shirt for the city or the beach, but also for a wedding! It's not uncommon in Latin America for guests to wear one, so why not do the same elsewhere? If the weather permits, go for it.

The ultimate Summer shirt

If you want to stand out from the crowd, the Guayabera is a great option. It is comfortable, elegant and will not go unnoticed.

Count 150 € for a Guayabera in ready-to-wear and 190 € for one in made-to-measure. The Guayabera de Burgos is a must-have for the summer.

McGeorge of Scotland – A Parisian lookbook

"Timeless Anarchic Luxury" can be read on some of the labels of the Scottish knitwear from McGeorge of Scotland. Since 1881, the brand has been offering pieces in wool, cashmere and cotton. Icons of style have worn McGeorge knits, from Steve McQueen to Grace Kelly, all have had their Aran cable sweater or shawl collar cardigan.

In its 1990 edition, the Japanese magazine Men's Club classified McGeorge as a "Status Brand" on a par with Rolex and Louis Vuitton. This is far from being a coincidence.

THE RED sweater MCGEORGE is stuck between J.M. Weston and gucci

We love knitwear and wear a piece almost every day. It was only logical for us to collaborate with a brand of the caliber of McGeorge.

We are pleased to offer you our lookbook of knitwear from the Scottish house. The 2 following pieces are both knitted in a very comfortable Super Geelong wool for everyday wear.

Please note that Mathieu wears a size M on all pieces.

Fresh Torino - The Casentino wool overshirt made in Italy

Fresh Torino

The Casentino wool overshirt made in Italy

In 1998, the American entrepreneur Senh Duong founded the Rotten Tomatoes website, which aims to establish a ranking of films validated by critics and viewers. The best films are awarded a "certified fresh" label, those less good "rotten". This is how The Wizard of Oz (1939) and Citizen Kane (1941) regularly compete for the top spot of the best movie of all time. The idea of having a "tomato meter" comes from the vaudeville plays of the early 20th century, in which the audience used to throw tomatoes at the actors to show their displeasure with the quality of their performance. The word "fresh" captures quality and novelty. It was therefore logical that the Turin-based store Fresh Torino would adopt this label. This Piedmontese store was founded in 2007 by two enthusiasts, Giulio Carbone and Alessio Massa, who could not find quality clothing from niche brands. At Fresh Torino, you will find Japanese brands such as Beams Plus or Orslow but also exclusive collaborations such as the one realized in partnership with the American brand Crescent Down Works. In a world dominated by multinationals and mass market transaction, the rationalization operated by Fresh Torino is welcome. The physical store is doubled with a digital presence and recently Alessio and Giulio launched Fresh, a brand that reflects their image.

We are pleased to introduce the Fresh blue Casentino wool overshirt.

Let's have a closer look.

The age-old history of Panno Casentino

The wool tradition of Panno Casentino has its origins in the Middle Ages in the town of Stia. The climatic and orographic conditions of the territory have forever linked this area to textile production since the 13th century. Sheep farming, already present in Etruscan and Roman times, became a predominant activity during the 15th century due to high demand. At the same time, the craft of the “orbace”, a woolen fabric used in Sardinia in particular, took off but remained confined to a limited market due to the constraints imposed by the Republic of Florence.

The birth of the first Panno Casentino is attested in 1537: the success of this new product was staggering. The characteristics of roughness and compactness immediately appealed to the working classes who, especially in the case of shepherds, merchants and carters, needed weatherproof coats for prolonged use. Despite the significant roughness of the finished products, this fabric eventually intimidated some far-sighted Florentine officials, who understood its commercial potential thanks to its competitive prices. In 1616, a law by Cosimo II limited the sale of Casentino to the production areas only, effectively preventing its export outside the valley.

Despite the corporative uprising in the face of the Florentine sovereigns' adversity, during the 16th and 17th centuries the wool craftsmen continued to spread in Stia as well as in the entire valley. Over time, the growing demand was met by the transformation of the textile factories into industrial centers. In the middle of the 19th century, the first woolen mills began to operate. In fact, first Stia in 1830 and Soci in 1848, then Rassina and Pratovecchio, all became important factories, employing hundreds of inhabitants. During this phase of development, the fabric was refined and became warmer and lighter.

Thanks to the innovative practice of "rattinatura" - the process of scraping the wool giving it its typical brushed look - Casentino acquired a very characteristic and unique appeal.  

From the mid-19th century onwards, new colors appeared, such as green, orange and red, these very vivid tones are absolutely characteristic of this wool.

The Fresh overshirt in navy blue wool casentino

Casentino wool has always fascinated me. Colorful, wearable and warm, I had never tried a garment on. So when I discovered the casentino wool overshirt from Fresh, I was very happy to give it a test run. 

The Turin-based brand's Casentino comes from the leading Stia-based manufacturer TACS, founded in 1976. If you want to know more about how this Tuscan wool is made, check out this very detailed video from the manufacturer.

The overshirt has two chest pockets with flaps, 7 real mother of pearl front buttons, shirt cuffs and two hidden side pockets. The deep blue catches the light beautifully. The piece is fully unlined.

The Fresh overshirt runs large. I'm wearing an XS here but had to take up the sleeve length so I wouldn't have to turn them inside out again. Before purchasing, ask for the measurement guide. For your information, here are the measurements for size S: total length 75 cm, sleeves 68 cm and shoulders 49 cm. So, the size S is actually a size M and the XS is a S. The fit is therefore regular.

The panno Casentino is known for its robustness. I can confirm this! Not only is the fabric thick but it is also particularly warm.

How do you wear a piece in Casentino?

As simply as possible!

I'm wearing white denim jeans, a Shaggy Bear Howlin' sweater in Kelly green and Paraboot Chambord in cordovan.

The blue overshirt is available here, and the green one here. You’ll need 249€ to spend the winter in warmth and style.