Anthony Delos

Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. This definition, often attributed to Albert Einstein seems to me a little too narrow. 

For example, if you asked my parents in 2011, insanity was their student son, pouring his savings into getting a pair of bespoke shoes (bespeaking a pair of shoes ?).

I tried in vain to explain that these were not mere shoes but a pair of balmoral oxford with a perforated cap toe, brogueing, a slightly cuban heel, bevelled waist, two dog-tails and exquisite swan neck stitching. I thought an argument from authority would help, but even as I mentioned the name of Anthony Delos, the look in my parents’ eyes remained incomprehensible and worried. Was their son lost? (Spoiler alert: yes)

At that time, Anthony Delos’ fame was higher than ever. After a comprehensive training all over France with the « compagnons du devoir », and several years in the bespoke workshop of John Lobb Paris, Anthony settled in 2004 his first workshop in Montmartre. In a few years, he built a solid reputation among a local and international clientèle of boot-making aficionados and other hand-welting fetishists. 

For the very few among our dearest readers who have not yet had the chance of getting a pair of bespoke shoes done, the whole process takes place in several meetings, separated by a few months each, or more depending on the artisan and his or her bandwidth (airquoting that last word).

At the time of our first meeting, Anthony and his team had already moved to a workshop located in a little town called les Rosiers-sur-Loire and the client meetings were taking place in a showroom in Paris. A first meeting is the chance to get to know each other, to agree on a shoe model and a last shape, details can be fixed later on. Of course, the first meeting does not end before the measurement ceremony. 

I arrived with a couple of pattern ideas, some of which were maybe too extravagant. Anthony guided me with patience and kindness. Once the pattern, leather and sole sewing determined, Anthony drew his measuring tape, pencil and started cooking. Knowing I would have to take off my shoes, I took an even greater care in picking my socks that morning.

After a couple of months, came the first fitting. I could not find any photo from that day (although I remember posting some on facebook at the time), but imagine a pair of cork soled trial shoes sliced open to ensure a proper fit.

Another few months and came the day before my birthday. It was also the date on which Anthony delivered the final shoes. After untying the strings of the white dust bags, I could only witness the skills and craftsmanship that made Anthony’s fame. An impeccable work of surgical precision. I slid in the shoes and the fit was like nothing I had ever felt before: the shoes offered a surprisingly stiff support, and yet remarkably flexible where they had to allow the walking feet to bend.

It is difficult to explain how I felt at that time, and I probably did not express it much back then either. In a movie, this is where they show you slow motion close ups, over an air from Lakme (you know this opera song). I was probably hearing the song in my head. I must admit that the news that Anthony had recently won the title of “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” (a competition honoring French craftspersons) got the better of my patience.  

After this short moment out of time, I went back to my life. One last internship, one last exam, first job interview, second job interview… My pair of Delos accompanied me along each milestone. Sun or rain. Mindless flaneries on the cobblestones of Paris or morning sprints in the subway escalators. Summer aperitivo on the Seine’s banks or end of year work review. 

Of course, life does not go on without a little scratch every now and then. Thankfully, nothing that a good brush and polish cannot fade into the leather patina that time gives to fine shoes and people who wear them.

In an attempt to justify their vice, shoes enthusiast tell themselves many lies. One of them is that a properly cared after pair of shoes can easily last a decade or a lifetime. This is especially true whit a shoe closet so full that rotation goes at the slowest pace. However, even the best shoes will occasionally need a sole replacement. In our case, I chose not to cover the sole’s leather with rubber protections, and the need for a new sole became obvious in 2018. Less than 10 years, but still an honorable performance. 

Of course, it is best not to give bespoke shoes to be refurbished to anyone. After a few hesitation and a lot of procrastination, I got in touch with Anthony last year. He confirmed that, despite having joined Berluti’s bespoke operation with his team in 2012, his workshop in Les Rosiers can still work on old Delos shoes. This was great news because, not only the shoes would be refurbished by the same skilled hands that birthed them, but the upper would be lasted on their original lasts, allowing them to regain their former shape of 2011 (if only it could be that easy for everyone…).

I will let you judge based on the photos (no, they were not taken yesterday, sorry but I’ve been busy!), but I find the oxfords to look better than new!

Now, I would not be fully honest with you if I did not share the sour epilogue of that sweet story. After a painful day, I had to admit that my feet had changed too much over the last twelve or so years for the most beautiful shoes I ever wore to fit me anymore. I know: better to have loved and lost than never to have loved at all. Besides, that makes a great excuse to buy new shoes, but that is a story for another article.

Smock Jacket from Yarmouth Oilskin

Note: At our request, Yarmouth Oilskins agreed to send us the 2 pieces that you will discover in this article.

In a precedent article, Marcos told the heritage of Yarmouth Oilskin and the local manufacturing of the British brand. Of course, at Les Indispensables, this is our stuff…

For this article, I chose to review the Explorer smock, in a fern green colorway, that is such a drastic change from the many olive green parkas and Barbour jackets already in my wardrobe… If you prefer, the smock is also available in cobalt blue. 

This smock jacket is a winter version of the one currently on sale on the Yarmouth Oilskin e-shop, it will be available for the Fall Winter 23-24 season.

The smock is made of a water repellent « dry wax » cotton. The fabric feels very soft and natural, and allowed me to come home dry despite the parisien bruin. It is wool wadded and cotton lined, which makes the jacket warm and comfortable, even without a mid layer, and , not to mention, highly breathable. 

Unfortunately, unlike Marcos, I do not have a motorcycle, so my only accessory was a hat, which was a good thing given the rain. 

I am a fan of the cut and details of this smock which remind of mid-century outdoors apparel (before the term ‘gorpcore » was invented), like the leather pieces to pull the drawstrings, or the cat’s eyes buttons. The front pockets are wide enough to store a map of the area you plan to explore, or a large smart phone. Two discret lateral pockets are lined with cotton fleece, to keep your hands warm, in case you forgot your gloves. 

The construction isn’t fancy, but is well designed and feels very robust. This smock is an excellent alternative to the original vintage ones that may be too rare (or precious) for a daily use.  

The seance item of this review are the deck trousers. I wanted first to try the stone colorway (that would have been a nice addition to my pile of chinos…) but it was not in stock at the time. So I went with the black one, that ended up much easier to wear than i originally thought. These trousers were in the brand’s catalog back in 1969 (nice).

The fit is relaxed at the hip and thigh and tapers slightly below the knee (because nobody wants their trousers caught in a rope). The elasticated waistband can be tightened with a drawstring, which makes the trousers extremely comfortable and easy to wear in any situation. To be frank, I have worn mine almost daily as I changed from my suit, coming home from the e-mail factory.  

Obviously, the sturdy cotton and solid construction makes them an excellent pair of trousers for more adventurous settings than a Netflix evening.

As a conclusion, this review confirms our first impression. Yarmouth Oilskin offers quality and comfortable garments, perfect for treading in the mud, fighting against the elements, or just enjoying a nice moment without worrying about a possible change in the weather. 

Bosie shaggy beanie

Text : Romain @Lastrolab
Photos : Thomas M.

In my follicly condition, beanies (or any hat actually) are not a mere fashion accessory but a requirement to face the weather. Which is why I was delighted to give this brushed Shetland beanie by Bosie a try.

As you may have noticed, this hat is red. There are, in my opinion, two pitfalls to avoid when wearing a red beanie.

The first trap is the temptation to match the color of the socks with the color of the beanie (my apologies to the cardinals reading us). Obviously, everyone is free to dress as they please (unfortunately) and I wouldn’t go as far as qualifying such combo as bad taste. It is even possible that I committed such thing in a recent past. But this seems too on the nose, at least in my opinion.

A second pitfall to avoid is any association with a certain French marine explorer. To be frank, it seems qui difficult to spend a whole day wearing a red beanie without hearing a joke or two. You can always try and limit your exposure by avoiding any sea-connoted garment (like peacoats and Breton sweaters) and explorer attire (fur trimmed down jackets, Gore-Tex parkas…), but you will never be completely safe.

Personally, I decided to play it safe with a Cal hoodie (bought on campus) and a sans hood m65 fishtail parka (bought online… less impressive).

Like every Bosie, and other rightful Shetland, sweater, this beanie is made from a wool spun and knitted in Scotland. The wool, being brushed twice, is exquisitely shaggy, soft and warm. The beanie is completely seamless and entirely knitted, thanks to its fully fashioned construction, with a thicker ribbing on the cuff.

With a £35 price tag, it will be difficult to find better anywhere else, even for an explorer like Shagg-Yves Cousteau (badum-tsss).

J.Crew Giant chino

You may have noticed the little tremor that shook the quiet world of menswear last summer. You more likely missed it because you were too busy taking photos of your negronis and because the epicenter was located in the east coast of the US, more precisely in New York.

On July 25th, the American brand J. Crew launched online its 2022 fall look book. In and of itself, this could have been a non-event. The brand that peaked in the 90s had been losing altitude for a while and nearly went bankrupt in 2020.

Since the mid aughts, J. Crew’s spearpoint has been the Ludlow suit. A slim fitting, low-rise and short jacket suit. An affordable and easily accessible, in any of the 127 shops, entry level suit that became a classic for young professional Americans, willing to differentiate themselves from their father and their Brooks Brothers suits.

 So why did this new collection made its way up to the headlines of menswear discussions? Because it was the first collection designed by Brendon Babenzien. If you haven’t already heard the name of this Long Island native, maybe his work will ring a bell. Indeed, after 15 years (on and off) at the head of Supreme creative direction, Babenzien has been running his own brand Noah since 2015. One can easily understand why J. Crew, looking for a new and youth-appealing image, wanted to recruit such a streetwear-oriented talent.

It would be an understatement to say that expectations were high. When the look book launched, many commentators rejoyced that J. Crew was back. Many others also wondered whether J. Crew was actually back… For a little French dude, the question is moot. How could J. Crew be back when it wasn’t here in the first place!

Browsing through the online catalog, one thing is certain though, the brand did catch up on current trends. Looks mix a traditional american wardrobe with workwear and streetwear-influenced pieces. Looking at this mix, it is hard not to think about Noah (duh) or Aimé Leon Dore, which is the front runner of what some call “grown man streetwear”. With a bit of a stretch, Drake’s could also fit in the same category of brands you can wear to your non-suit required office (with a more European vocabulary). By the way, this new aesthetic will likely disappoint 1990’s moodboard enthusiasts (#oldjecrew).  

Of course, if you had to set the cursor for J. Crew, it would rather be on the preppy or ivy side than the streetwear side of the board. Prints are quieter than at ALD or Noah. Models are having a warmhearted laugh on the deck of their lake cabin instead of defiantly looking at the camera. We don’t mind slumming it a little, but let’s keep it New England.

The lookbook launch peaked my curiosity and I had a look at J. Crew’s online shop. A few items caught my attention (some foulard print shirts, heavy gauge cotton knitwear…), but nothing in the offering seemed to be fulfilling a cruel need in my wardrobe and, thus, justifying a purchase. This makes sense, the brand targets a broad audience. Menswear nerds didn’t wait for 2022 to get themselves a rugby sweatshirt, a shetland sweater, oxford shirts or khakis…

Talking about khakis, a specific model did get a lot of attention: the Giant Chino. Among its range of chino fits, J. Crew pulled from its archive the giant fit. I am not familiar enough with the brand’s history, but the resurrection of the Giant Chino seemed to be the event within the event. Which was actually a nice coincidence because I had been on the hunt for a flat front wide-legged pair of khakis for a while, something in the like of the Polo officer chinos, or their original version from the US Army (again). Maybe a purchase was justified after all…

A couple of weeks and 120 EUR (80 USD on the US shop…) later, the much awaited chino arrived. And it was a relief because they were already sold out online.

Trying on the pants, they did not lie, the fit is indeed giant. The cut is just like what I had in mind, relatively close to the hips but wide in the thigh all the way down to the ankle. The leg opening is a record 26 cm (vs. 23 for the famous “French Army Chinos”). I was expected vanity sizing and ordered one size down (two could probably have been possible). The rise is moderately but properlyhigh.

The all cotton mid-weight canvas is thick and sturdy which makes the chino hangs nicely from the waist. This is something I dislike about the French Army chino: the fabric is very light, which is perfect for summer but makes the pants lose any shape after wearing them for half an hour. The Giant Chino holds itself nicely throughout the day: the leg remains a straight line all the way down to the ankle.

 A funny detail is that the chino is hemmed with a 4 cm cuff at the bottom. It looks nice, but I am not sure I would have asked for cuffs on a chino. Since the pants are hemmed, only one length is available: 30 inches. It will be too short for some, too long for others. Personally, this is the perfect length. Pulling up and tightening the belt, I get an ankle-breezing crop cut. Loosening the belt, the chino sits on my hips and cover my socks. Other might need to get an alteration tailor.

Finishing looks good for the price. The machine stitching looks clean and sturdy both inside and out. White lining of the waistband and piping make the inside look neat.

Looking back, I am very happy with my purchase. The fit is what I was looking for, and the quality is good. I can finally stop looking for vintage US Army chinos. Well, maybe I’ll keep an eye open because something that the Giant Chino is missing is a coin pocket on the waistband.