Kit Blake London
/Text: Romain @Lastrolab
Photos: Thomas M.
Marseille, June 2005, close your eyes and picture this…Well actually no keep them open, keep reading. As I was saying, June 2005, I was maybe 16 or 17 years old (don’t try to do the math, please) and in a shop, trying on a pair of white linen pants. The sale assistant watching me hesitating in front of the mirror and afraid to lose his commission told me “you know, girls like linen…” Hearing this, my hormones and insecurities took the wheel and got us to the register with the pants, and a matching Von Dutch trucker hat. How could I not “get some” that summer with these sumptuous white pants, grayish stained at the bottom by stamping in puddles of vodka and apple juice (remember, Red Bull wasn’t allowed in France yet…), shapeless and so loosely woven that my leg hair would peep through the fabric, just like the pattern of my loud underwear. You would be surprised to learn that I actually did not “get any” that summer.
I took me another 17 years (I just checked, and that number frightens me), to overcome this trauma and try again another pair of linen trousers. As you can see on the photos, these trousers from Kit Blake have nothing in common with the atrocity I wore for the hottest nights of my late teens. After all, it would be a shame to overlook linen which is so much more breathable than cotton and does not itch like Fresco (the fact that no one speaks of how much Fresco’s itches baffles me, I guess cool wools’ lobbyist is efficient).
At a first touch, the linen’s quality is striking. Very dense and supple (yes, it will wrinkle, it is linen after all), the fabric holds its shape nicely and highlights the trousers’ cut.
For their woolen trousers, Kit Blake designed a timeless drape cut. For their linens and cottons, the brand chose a slightly slimmer cut (I said slimmer, not slim) to take into consideration the frabrics characteristics. The thiccest among us may size up for more drape and tighten the side adjusters at the waist. I did not, but I think I could have. The rise is mid-hid, at the actual waist, a few centimeters below the navel. On the front, two pleats (four in total) are forward facing, the French (or English, if you prefer) way. At this point, you guessed that we are far from the backpacker’s elephant printed linen pants (you know, the ones you brought back from when you “did” South-East Asia).
For each first order, trousers are delivered un-hemmed, to ensure that each can get their preferred length. To avoid any miscommunication with your tailor (“not too long, but not too short either, please”), a leaflet with lengths illustrations is enclosed in the package. Once the proper length determined and measured, it will be possible to ask for the pants to be delivered hemmed. This will save you a trip to your tailor (thank you for supporting local businesses). Another good surprise is that the trousers come with a complimentary hanger with pegs, to perfectly suspend your trousers (if your closet is high enough).
The trousers are very nicely finished with an irreproachable machine stitching. The inside is also beautifully made with piping every everywhere you eyes can see and a curtained waistband. In addition to the aforementioned side-adjusters, the waistband features a split-back. This is a beautiful Italian making. One last noticeable detail, brace buttons are already sewn inside, for those who celebrate.
I also had the chance to try on their cotton shorts, which share the same level of finishing and cut than their longer siblings.
Maybe more than for the trousers, I could have gotten a size up for more ease. Although, after a couple of day wearing them, the shorts stretched a little and became perfectly comfortable. Unfortunately I do not have any photo evidence, you will have to blindly trust me. The shorts are finished with an original detail: two inches turn-up cuffs at the knee.
Linen trousers are sold for €290 (250 for wool and 190 for cotton) and the shorts for 170. A price tag more than justified for this quality level. Full disclosure, I might even relapse for a nice winter flannel…
Founded in London in 2019, Kit Blake offers trousers inspired by Savile Row’s tradition and manufactured in Italy made with Italian and English fabrics. The brand’s philosophy is to offer timeless cut trousers to allow men to get out of their jeans, without necessarily jumping into a suit. And since there is more to life than just grey pants, Kit Blake will soon launch limited editions in special fabrics, casual trousers and, who knows, maybe a MTO/MTM program.
